anyone using m20 radiator?

[kusserwagon]

I am running my m20 radiator, but I want to see what others have done for coolant lines. The e34 lines I have are too long in a couple places. And the m20 lines don't work at all. Please help. And yes I will be getting a better radiator down the road but for now I just need to get the car moving. Thank you

[Mr. Burns]

the inlet/outlets are reversed on the M30.
the M20 rad won't work AFAIK.

I'm using a e28 535 rad with perfect fitment.

[curtis_luu]

from what i know the radiator in/outs are reversed on the m20 vs the m30
Also the m30 swap has a tendency to overheat.

Why use the smaller radiator with the inlet/outlet reversed?
e28 rad FTW as Burns says

[wannaBMthree]

Sorry to hijack, but is there is a consensus on after-market radiators, do they have an (significant) advantage? got an e28 rad myself.

[curtis_luu]

not that I know of - e28 rad with a front mounted electric fan seems to do fine on every build thread ive read. Anyone else with more experience know?

[Mr. Burns]

^^ I'll be using this, with a SPAL 16" pusher fan.

there are a couple of guys who've had good success with the OLDER styler Mishimoto e36 M3 rad, however Mishimoto went and changed their designed...reviews have been not so hot with the change.

IMO, stick to OEM (Behr and the like) and you can't go wrong

[Bearmw]

Unless you are boosting at very high levels why reinvent the wheel? Even then maybe an m30 radiator would work? I figure use an m30 radiator because BMW sized it properly, its not hard to fit, and it works.

[lukeADE335i]

The late M20 radiator has the pipes around the right way for the M30, just like the e36 radiator.

It's not that much smaller than the e28, but sorry - no idea what you'd do for hoses. With a decent 16 inch fan it should stay cool depending on your climate.

Sometimes it's easier not to re-invent the wheel. The e28 setup with a 16 inch pusher is well proven on many swaps and works fine - I drive mine daily & in traffic in temps up to 110F without any issues.

[hotdish]

I am using a late 325i e30 rad w/ 16" pusher on my car. e32 upper hose and e32 lower hose IIRC (m30b35 from an e32). The only bad part is that the rad plug hits the PS pulley on my car.

I have had no overheating problems, but I deleted AC.

[McGyver]

I am using a late 325i e30 rad w/ 16" pusher on my car. e32 upper hose and e32 lower hose IIRC (m30b35 from an e32). The only bad part is that the rad plug hits the PS pulley on my car.

I have had no overheating problems, but I deleted AC.

Pretty much the same setup for me, except:
-I took a bolt and ground the head down as thin as possible and am using that for the plug
-I had to shorten the e32 lower hose just a tad
-I had to cut a little of the lip of the radiator support out of the bottom to clear the AC compressor and the top to clear the rotor/plug wires.

Also, if you need to make a "T" hose, buy the "T" connector for the e28 535i. It's a 1"-1"-1" connector and you'll have to use a 1" from the block, through the "T" to the coolant tank. (late model location) The other part takes a 3/4" hose to the heater core. Just lube up the "T" with Sil-Glyde and slip the hose right on.

The stock AC Aux fan may be enough to work, but for less than $150 shipped you can get a Spal 30102047 16" Straight Blade Fan and the mounting kit. Then you can wire it in so that it comes on automatically when the engine heats up and comes on for the AC.

[kusserwagon]

I am using a late 325i e30 rad w/ 16" pusher on my car. e32 upper hose and e32 lower hose IIRC (m30b35 from an e32). The only bad part is that the rad plug hits the PS pulley on my car.

I have had no overheating problems, but I deleted AC.

Could you please post a picture of your coolant lines. I'm using e32/4 lines and they are too long so they kinda pinch at the bends.