Want to do an M30 swap
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wow joodoo - that must be one unhappy crank rod.
Honestly, it ususally takes a HUGE air compressor...and a very good TQ impact.Leave a comment:
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Ahhhh, you know what? I used a similar method to torque the thing back on. I used two chunks of 2x4 between the crank and the block!Leave a comment:
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So i was thinkin all I need to do is stop the engine from turning right? So i went out back, got my saw, cut a 4 or so inch piece of about 3 in diameter wood from a tree, put it on top of piston #1, bolted on the head, and what do you know, off comes the nasty bolt...:loco:Leave a comment:
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I think I used a couple bolts and a big wrench, and my dad stood on the motor to hold it still.Leave a comment:
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Well im trying to be creative and find a way to hold the engine from turning. I tryed wedging a socket extention bewteen a few pully bolts but it just bent the shit out of the bolts.Leave a comment:
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Tons of leverage.
You WILL need a cheater bar to slip over the end of a breaker bar.
You have to out it back on with ~325ft/lbs as well.Leave a comment:
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Meh, it wasn't gonna fit... I dropped it off at the driveshaft shop today. Getting 1 3/16" taken out of the front half. Should be moving under it's own power by this weekend!!! And it only took... 6 months... of laziness.Leave a comment:
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Yeah, if it's about that 1/8" shorter than you expect, you'll just have 1/8" less spline contact, but in the grand scheme of things, it's really not alot at all. My driveshaft fit perfectly as well!Leave a comment:
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I just went out and looked at my driveshaft, and I think that once I get the E30 csb on it, I won't even have to shorten it! It appears to be within about 1/8 inch when I hold it all up there, so maybe I will get lucky. I'll definitely keep you all posted.Leave a comment:
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I used the stock M30 (6 series) hoses to the heater core and they fit perfectly.Leave a comment:
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I'm also stumped on the heater core connections... a diagram of sorts would be golden about now.Leave a comment:
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