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Want to do an M30 swap

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  • Axxe
    replied
    Yeah, a nice snappy or IR gun should whip it right off with 150 PSI feeding it.

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  • george graves
    replied
    wow joodoo - that must be one unhappy crank rod.

    Honestly, it ususally takes a HUGE air compressor...and a very good TQ impact.

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  • euroshark
    replied
    Ahhhh, you know what? I used a similar method to torque the thing back on. I used two chunks of 2x4 between the crank and the block!

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  • JoeMadoo
    replied
    So i was thinkin all I need to do is stop the engine from turning right? So i went out back, got my saw, cut a 4 or so inch piece of about 3 in diameter wood from a tree, put it on top of piston #1, bolted on the head, and what do you know, off comes the nasty bolt...:loco:

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  • euroshark
    replied
    I think I used a couple bolts and a big wrench, and my dad stood on the motor to hold it still.

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  • JoeMadoo
    replied
    Well im trying to be creative and find a way to hold the engine from turning. I tryed wedging a socket extention bewteen a few pully bolts but it just bent the shit out of the bolts.

    Leave a comment:


  • euroshark
    replied
    Tons of leverage.

    You WILL need a cheater bar to slip over the end of a breaker bar.

    You have to out it back on with ~325ft/lbs as well.

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  • JoeMadoo
    replied
    How do you take the crankshaft nut off?

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  • euroshark
    replied
    Meh, it wasn't gonna fit... I dropped it off at the driveshaft shop today. Getting 1 3/16" taken out of the front half. Should be moving under it's own power by this weekend!!! And it only took... 6 months... of laziness.

    Leave a comment:


  • Garageaholic
    replied
    Yeah, if it's about that 1/8" shorter than you expect, you'll just have 1/8" less spline contact, but in the grand scheme of things, it's really not alot at all. My driveshaft fit perfectly as well!

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  • euroshark
    replied
    I just went out and looked at my driveshaft, and I think that once I get the E30 csb on it, I won't even have to shorten it! It appears to be within about 1/8 inch when I hold it all up there, so maybe I will get lucky. I'll definitely keep you all posted.

    Leave a comment:


  • MrK
    replied
    Originally posted by euroshark View Post
    I used the stock M30 (6 series) hoses to the heater core and they fit perfectly.

    That makes sense, since using the e34 hoses are out since the overflow tank is near the firewall on those. I guess the 6 series had the tank closer to where the e30's is.

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  • JoeMadoo
    replied
    Ya but my e32 had 3 hoses, e30 has 2.

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  • euroshark
    replied
    I used the stock M30 (6 series) hoses to the heater core and they fit perfectly.

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  • MrK
    replied
    I'm also stumped on the heater core connections... a diagram of sorts would be golden about now.

    Leave a comment:

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