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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by george graves View Post
    Hmmm, maybe yor engine bay is longer then the rest of ours!!!

    I'll let others chime in. But I beat my firewall about 1.5" - 2". It makes for a cleaner install with the back of the head tucked neatly into the wall IMHO...Weight, ect...

    My theory is get it back as far as you can. It's 15-20 mins at the most to do it (measure, hammer, and seal the paint with something.)

    It sound like to make the mounts for sale, you are going to remove them and block up the motor while you copy them. At that time I *would suggest* you make them so the motor sits further back. But only a sugestion.

    Tino over at e30.de coined the "position 1, 2, 3" thing. It's really all reliative. I'd say I'm in position 3 (far back)

    Also, I removed the tranny insualtion as well, it just gets in the way. Just yesterday I strated installing some "dynomat" - and copy of it called "edead". Works WONDERS... I bought 20 lbs of it (60 feet) and you could get away with using only 5lbs of it of so. I installed in inside the cabin, covering where the back of the head is, and the tranny tunnel/exhause side.

    Make my M30 sound SO SO sososososo much sicker. With out something there you end up with a lot more tranny whine, and head noise - and not in a good way. I've only done the passanger side so far, but it allows you to hear the exhause and intake SO much clearer rather then the head/tranny noise(unplesent sounds)

    I don't mean to tell you how to do your swap(didn't want to sound like an ass or something ) - just sharing what I did, and I'm very happy with the results.

    HTH....

    ..
    For sure, for sure.
    I just figured, why beat in the firewall if you don't have to? ya know?

    I am a HUGE fan of the M30 and really want to promote it(in swaps)! I mean... its an M20 that is just bigger and no timing belt. It is actually bullet proof! :)

    I definitely think that an S52 has its time and place, but in reality, if you can get the same amount of power with 1/3 of the investment?

    Leave a comment:


  • george graves
    replied
    Hmmm, maybe yor engine bay is longer then the rest of ours!!!

    I'll let others chime in. But I beat my firewall about 1.5" - 2". It makes for a cleaner install with the back of the head tucked neatly into the wall IMHO...Weight, ect...

    My theory is get it back as far as you can. It's 15-20 mins at the most to do it (measure, hammer, and seal the paint with something.)

    It sound like to make the mounts for sale, you are going to remove them and block up the motor while you copy them. At that time I *would suggest* you make them so the motor sits further back. But only a sugestion.

    Tino over at e30.de coined the "position 1, 2, 3" thing. It's really all reliative. I'd say I'm in position 3 (far back)

    EDIT: I have to add, I waited 3 months for a set of mounts from him (e30.de), and when they didn't show I was upset. I requested him to send another set via fedex with tracking. His responce was "I will not, anyone that gets a lost package in the US need to deal with DHL) ..very upsetting... Tino is a cool guy, but I think he is done with m30 mounts for the US... do us al a favor and hit up joe before...

    Also, I removed the tranny insualtion as well, it just gets in the way. Just yesterday I strated installing some "dynomat" - and copy of it called "edead". Works WONDERS... I bought 20 lbs of it (60 feet) and you could get away with using only 5lbs of it of so. I installed in inside the cabin, covering where the back of the head is, and the tranny tunnel/exhause side.

    Make my M30 sound SO SO sososososo much sicker. With out something there you end up with a lot more tranny whine, and head noise - and not in a good way. I've only done the passanger side so far, but it allows you to hear the exhause and intake SO much clearer rather then the head/tranny noise(unplesent sounds)

    I don't mean to tell you how to do your swap(didn't want to sound like an ass or something ) - just sharing what I did, and I'm very happy with the results.

    HTH....

    ..
    Last edited by george graves; 04-09-2007, 12:57 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Funkmasta
    replied
    I have plenty of clearance on the AC pulley. I'm running the exact same motor as you, George (B35 head), and it is right up against the firewall. We did take off the insulation though. There doesnt appear to be any clearance issues anywhere, and the motor is actually fully mounted as we speak.

    We didnt need to touch the firewall at all... If we had the B34 head, I can see how it would have been an issue.

    ?

    Leave a comment:


  • george graves
    replied
    Originally posted by Axxe View Post
    If you didn't have to modify the firewall you aren't as far back as you should be.
    Word... Or maby you should say, you're not as far back as you "could be"....

    Also the early m30 had a big collant pipe on the back of the head - that makes for even more hammering needed...

    Get BFH and don't be shy...The aera you clear gets compleatly covered with the head, and it causes no real damage to your car. I'm susprised at how many guys are so worried about doing this....

    Leave a comment:


  • Axxe
    replied
    If you didn't have to modify the firewall you aren't as far back as you should be.

    Leave a comment:


  • Funkmasta
    replied
    These are for the B34 M30's... B35 mounts are soon to follow though. :)
    What is your timeframe?

    Leave a comment:


  • talltorontoguy
    replied
    Hey Joe... what version M30 are those mounts for? I've got an M30B35 and I'm looking for mounts! Hook me up?

    Rod

    Leave a comment:


  • Funkmasta
    replied
    Originally posted by george graves View Post
    Take a hammer to that firewall Joe, you're not back far enough(from the looks of the pics, I could be wrong) - Make sure you test fit the rotor/cap, that is the closest part of the motor to the radiator.

    When your there beating away at the firewall, make some clearence in the passanger footwell for the exhaust to sneak past.

    ...
    The cap and rotor are on, and with the full weight of the motor on the mounts, the pan is 1/8" off the subframe/rack.

    The AC pulley is about a half-inch from the radiator.

    :)

    We didnt have to mod the firewall at all, but I will look into the passenger footwell thing.

    Leave a comment:


  • euroshark
    replied
    Sick, I'll buy a set next year when I build "E30 M30 Part Deux"

    Leave a comment:


  • george graves
    replied
    Take a hammer to that firewall Joe, you're not back far enough(from the looks of the pics, I could be wrong) - Make sure you test fit the rotor/cap, that is the closest part of the motor to the radiator.

    When your there beating away at the firewall, make some clearence in the passanger footwell for the exhaust to sneak past.

    ...
    Last edited by george graves; 04-08-2007, 10:02 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Funkmasta
    replied
    The Motor mounts are going to be dressed up a little so that they look nicer. Then, mass produced. :)

    Who wants a set?

    Leave a comment:


  • Funkmasta
    replied
    No modification to the firewall. Room to run A/C. :D
    I love swaps.

    :D
    \
    Last edited by Funkmasta; 04-07-2007, 04:54 PM.

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  • Funkmasta
    replied
    :D

    Leave a comment:


  • Axxe
    replied
    I threw a BFH at you the other day, should arrive pending any unforeseen customs bullshit :)

    Leave a comment:


  • george graves
    replied
    Some one hit me over the head with a BFH if I don't post a pic describing my H2o flow tommrow (sorry been meaning to do it). I used a mix of e30 and e24/e28 parts

    (someone correct me if I am wrong, but I think e28 and e24's are 99% the same under the hood)

    Leave a comment:

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