M30 E30 official roll call thread

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  • mzollo
    replied
    1985 325e

    Engine:
    M30B35
    honed
    new rings
    new rod bearings
    new main bearings
    vapor honed pistons
    vapor honed all aluminum and covers
    DFL coated pistons
    O ring block
    ARP studs

    new everything else
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • cooperman
    replied
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    1991 BMW 318is (M90 swap)

    NEW:
    Fuel tank
    Fuel lines
    Fuel pressure regulator
    Filler neck hose
    Fuel pump (walbro)

    Suspension and subframes completely disassembled, reinforced, and coated with chassis saver
    Koni adjustable shocks
    H&R springs (Factory Sport, with 1” drop)
    New subframe bushings (factory rubber)
    New trailing arm bushings (poly)
    Front control arms (Lemforder)
    Tie rods (Meyle)
    M3 close ratio steering rack, power steering pump is properly hooked up
    Treehouse racing eyeball arms
    New rear axles
    New wheel bearings (All 4 corners)
    Rear shock tower support bracket (Garagistic)
    Front shock support bracket (not yet installed) Garagistic


    Brakes:
    New rear calipers, SS lines, and pads
    Front is a BBK with wilwood ultralite calipers (extra set of backup rotors included); new SS lines

    Differential is a 3.25 Limited slip, new Redline fluid

    Engine: M90 Oversquare M30 (93.4 mm x 84 mm)- google if you are curious. Torque monster!
    Completely rebuilt. Disassembled and hot tanked, repainted.
    I spec’d and measured everything myself and is within tolerances.
    Stock pistons, new Deves rings, honed cylinders.
    New bearings.
    New expansion plugs.
    New fasteners (some ARP).
    Headwork done by the renowned Paul Burke at Nolan’s machine shop in KC.
    Skimmed, 3 angle valve grind. Stock cam, stock springs, heavy duty rocker arms. Stock head studs

    Modified Garagistic engine mounts.
    Oil cooler setup using BMW factory oil canister and upgraded fittings and hoses. Cooler installed in front of radiator.

    Spahl electric cooling fan, wired to its own sensor, aftermarket digital temp gauge also installed.
    E28 coolant overflow reservoir on homemade mount

    E28 radiator
    Air conditioner deleted, but have hoses and new upgraded condenser.
    Motronic 1.3 with wiring harness from an e34 535i
    New belts, hoses, plugs, distributor cap and rotor, etc, etc.
    Momo steering wheel with adapter hub
    Flowmaster muffler, resonator to tame rasp, no cats.

    Transmission is a 265/5 with the removable bell housing. (Redline fluid)
    All new shifter bushings.
    M5 single mass flywheel (17 lb)
    Custom driveshaft work from a shop in San Antonio. Had an e34 535i shaft shortened by a few inches (cost me $600).
    Custom welded transmission bracket (I made, to keep proper geometry).
    MK Motorsport 8x16 rims
    Heavy metal UUC shifter knob
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Fixedwheelnut
    replied
    I bought this in 2015 with the engine conversion already done but it still needed a lot of work, I did most of the other mods brake upgrade etc, have had it off the road for the past year and a half for a respray colour change to San Marino Blue and full nut and bolt rebuild

    1989 318i Touring
    M30 3.5l engine conversion with M30 5-speed manual gearbox -
    New Electric fan and E28 535 radiator -
    Custom 6 branch manifold and full stainless steel exhaust system
    Rebuilt 3.46? 5 series differential with e30 backplate
    15" BBS alloys
    Eibach/Bilstein sport suspension kit with 40mm drop all round
    New Meyle heavy duty rear top mounts -
    Mazda RX-7 four pot calipers up front.
    Polybushed front wishbones -
    Short shift gearshifter -
    E46 Clubsport steering rack -
    Full Touring Leather sport interior
    MTEC steering wheel
    rear axle beam modified for toe and camber adjusting
    Modified the standard smiley headlights to add Halo rings.
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  • sebastianroher
    replied
    1989 Zinnoberrot coupe with M30B35
    Location: Orange Park, FL
    Modified Schmiedmann headers
    Scorpion exhaust
    Performance Chip
    Slicktop conversion in progress

    Leave a comment:


  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    Quick question - are you running a distributor cap?

    This is where the least clearance to the radiator is on my swap - with the e28 radiator I have much more room to the pulley than you have, even with the AC pulley still fitted, and the distributor cap is still quite tight at the top of the radiator.

    If you're going multi-coil / wasted spark, then it won't matter as you'll blank off the timing cover, but if not then I doubt your distributor cap is going to clear that radiator looking at the photos.

    Leave a comment:


  • CharMick
    replied
    Z3M radiator clearance...now it fits!

    Problem solved by removing AC pulley (car never had functioning AC anyway) from combination AC/PS pulley.

    Added almost exactly 3/4 of an inch clearance between pulley and radiator. Radiator sits on stock mounts and hold-down. No further mods required, nearly an inch of clearance, overall.

    Held crank with 36mm socket and long extension, removed 8x 13mm bolts, removed pulley. Used my flush cut saw with metal cutting blade (WD40 to cool). Took 5 minutes and was very clean. Polished rough edge with emery cloth and gave it a shot of black paint. Done.

    Looks factory and gave me the clearance I needed to use the larger radiator.

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    Last edited by CharMick; 09-08-2018, 05:27 AM.

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  • CharMick
    replied
    One other thought on clearance....remove the entire AC/PS pulley (see #2 in copy of picture from REALOEM) from the crank, leaving just the WP/Alternator pulley. Weld a pulley to the alternator pulley (see picture....there was a company making something called an Add-a-pulley for offroad welders) to drive the PS...seems do-able. The company does not make them anymore but he describes a way of doing it yourself. Link:

    ZENA Add-A-Pulley power takeoff kit information page -- photos and diagrams showing methods of use



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  • CharMick
    replied
    Here are the pictures of the intake height from front and side.Click image for larger version

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  • CharMick
    replied
    Firewall massaged. I may have gone a bit overboard but I did not want to have to pull/reinstall again. About 1mm clearance between the AC pulley and the Z3M radiator. Considering splitting the pulley but I am concerned about unbalancing the crank.
    EDIT: After removing the plastic radiator supports that the rubber feet fit into I can press the radiator up against the vertical radiator support and i get about 3/16+ clearance at the bottom of the AC pulley. Will the motor ever shift forward enough to make contact?

    Pictures of FW clearance, exhaust tunnel, brake booster clearance (none...suggestions?).

    This is the first time I have seen the motor in the car and it LOOKS like the intake manifold sits pretty high. Two pictures attached....does this look OK? I don't think i could lower it without new mounts and I only have a couple of millimeters between the oil pan and the e46 steering rack. Does this look like how the motor sits in other folk's cars?

    BTW...that is Toyota FIPG squeezing out between the block and oil pan.

    Thanks.

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    Last edited by CharMick; 08-26-2018, 12:04 PM. Reason: fix pictures

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  • glnr13
    replied
    Since you're going no AC you can shave off the AC groove on your crank pulley. The other pulleys are set back. It's gonna be tight... I'm running the e28 radiator and that's thinner than the m20 radiator. I have very little space between radiator and alternator pulley. Crank pulley with AC groove to radiator I can barely get a fingers width in there.

    Leave a comment:


  • CharMick
    replied
    Need to bash the firewall this weekend so I can get an idea of how much room there is.

    Since I am going distributor-less I am hoping to have enough room for the radiator to fit in the stock location. It isn't really any wider than the stock m20 rad, just has 3 cores rather than 2 and no provision for auto cooler in the radiator, going with standalone mounted where useless oil cooler used to be.

    If anything the pulleys may be close...fingers crossed.

    Leave a comment:


  • glnr13
    replied
    Originally posted by CharMick
    In final stages of assembly
    Z3M radiator
    How's the clearance on that? Got any pics?

    Leave a comment:


  • CharMick
    replied
    91 vert auto

    In final stages of assembly (I hope)...
    • Low mileage 91 cabrio, black
    • 92 M30B35 from a 735i with 110K miles
    • 4.27 Torsen LSD from a Z3
    • E46 steering rack
    • E36 tie rods
    • Condor Speed offset cabs
    • Bilstein fronts and KYB Camaro shocks rear
    • E32 aux fan for cooling
    • Z3M radiator
    • Transcool transmission cooler
    • Megasquirt2 DIY
    • Six LS2 Truck coils using crank-fired ignition
    • 23lb mustang injectors
    • 3 inch single exhaust with Vibrant Quiet resonator, high-flow cat, and Borla muffler
    • 14.7 wide band O2
    • E32 intake with AFM delete
    • Garagistic mounts with 635i rubber bushings
    • M30 torque converter and bell housing with E30 4HP22 (or is it a 24?)
    • Style 18 BMW wheels from an E36 that I will mount once i can save up for a set of 42 Draft Design adapters
    • UUC braided brake lines
    • Garagistic rear shock mount reinforcement
    • Battery relocated to rear...50lb ballast removed
    • Drilled and wired cam oiler banjo bolts
    • AC delete
    • PS retain
    Last edited by CharMick; 08-27-2018, 09:30 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jdance30
    replied
    Originally posted by glnr13
    how is your coolant reservoir mounted?
    It isn't mounted, just resting there...I probably need to do that.

    Leave a comment:


  • glnr13
    replied
    Originally posted by jdance30


    M30 in!

    [ATTACH]120174[/ATTACH]
    how is your coolant reservoir mounted?

    Leave a comment:

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