Transmissions

[CorvallisBMW]

Darin, I am about to pull the motor on mine again, so we can figure yours out pretty easily. I wanted to get a design on the late model PS mount anyway... ;)

BTW, I also have a b35A motor... there are some minor wiring differences, but they will be close enough that we should be able to 90% copy mine.

Sounds good. I am looking in to picking up another car to drive while I work on the swap. Or maybe I'll just borrow one of yours :)

[Funkmasta]

George, when are you going to move up north so we can have ANOTHER M30E30 in the PNW? lol ;)

[Funkmasta]

Darin, I am about to pull the motor on mine again, so we can figure yours out pretty easily. I wanted to get a design on the late model PS mount anyway... ;)

BTW, I also have a b35A motor... there are some minor wiring differences, but they will be close enough that we should be able to 90% copy mine.

[Jean]

At that price you must not think twice to get it!

[CorvallisBMW]

word, the guy only wants $100 for it b/c he's moving and has to get rid of it NOW. It's got 188K but he says it runs great and comes with all the accesories. Even if it turns out to be in need of some TLC, that's easy when it's on an engine stand

Industrial and Manufacturing engineer :)

[Garageaholic]

If you're going to convert with your 88 325is shell, it should be CAKE. I'll walk u thru it. Get the engine!!

Yes i'm a mechanical/systems Engineer, ahahha

[CorvallisBMW]

You could plug the holes. I didn't, so I have 3 holes very close together.

You must remember the force that's acting on these mounts. It's not in shear, it's all in tension/compression, so the force is really not even on the hole. it's acting on the mount. Unless of course you do REALLY hard accelerating and then BRAKE immediately, then you put shear on the mount bolts, which in turn affect the holes on the mount brackets. It's that shear force that is bad for the brackets.

For 99% of the time, it's not a worry, for the other 1%, it should work 40% of the time, which is good odds because the other 60% of the time, you're driving for only 5% of the day, maybe pushing the car to the limits 1% of that and only 35% of the time you're really doing any considerable damage.

Add up all the percentages andit turns out that you have a .0000915% chance of breaking the brackets.

lol you must be an engineer too! That sounds like a croww between my statistical design and analysis class and intro to statics. Oh and btw, I have a line on a really cheap and good condition '88 e32 735i motor. It's from an auto, will that cause any huge wiring headaches? what tranny/ds should bolt up to that?

[Garageaholic]

You could plug the holes. I didn't, so I have 3 holes very close together.

You must remember the force that's acting on these mounts. It's not in shear, it's all in tension/compression, so the force is really not even on the hole. it's acting on the mount. Unless of course you do REALLY hard accelerating and then BRAKE immediately, then you put shear on the mount bolts, which in turn affect the holes on the mount brackets. It's that shear force that is bad for the brackets.

For 99% of the time, it's not a worry, for the other 1%, it should work 40% of the time, which is good odds because the other 60% of the time, you're driving for only 5% of the day, maybe pushing the car to the limits 1% of that and only 35% of the time you're really doing any considerable damage.

Add up all the percentages andit turns out that you have a .0000915% chance of breaking the brackets.

[oldskool3]

thanks for the info guys I didn't think of plugging the holes.

[der affe]

if you fill up the old hole with weld (mig or tig the hole shut and grind it you shouldn't weaken the mounting surface at all.

take a piece of copper (sheet) and vice grip it to the bottom side of the surface. then weld it up from the topside (button or plug weld) grind the top with an angle grinder, repaint, done!

on a sidenote....... wasn't someone on this board going to copy the de mounts and sell them?

[george graves]

Do you think it comprimised the structural integrity of the mounts at all. I was thinking of doing th same thing and welding in a new plate to reinforce the rest of the mount.

My only other concern is handling as the farther back the motor sits the better the handling is but I geuss if it is like an inch it can't make that much of a difference.

Won't make a huge difference but can't hurt either....

The mounts are built like a tank, dill 'em till they look like swiss cheese and you'll still be fine.

If you add a reenforcement plate, add it to the underside, or your motor will end up too high - be sure you can still get a nut on the motor mounts as well.

..

[oldskool3]

Yup, that's the exact setup I have. M20 poly mounts.

I drilled a hole inbetween the two holes (position II and III), to create a position 2 1/2. I like how the engine sits in that position. Driveshaft fits nicely and doesn't hit the firewall.

Do you think it comprimised the structural integrity of the mounts at all. I was thinking of doing th same thing and welding in a new plate to reinforce the rest of the mount.

My only other concern is handling as the farther back the motor sits the better the handling is but I geuss if it is like an inch it can't make that much of a difference.

[CorvallisBMW]

Who are you asking.

everyone :)

I noticed that there are several different mounts they sell for e34/e32 M30's, and I was just wondering what other people are using. I've heard 'position 2', 'position 3', 'position 2.5' and I'm wondering how it works exactly. Are the positions located on the engine, or are you refering to the .de arms?

[Garageaholic]

Who are you asking.

[CorvallisBMW]

Which e30.de mounts did you use? position 2 or 3?