Techniques how to bleed the E30 M30! HELP!

[talltorontoguy]

I found when bleeding, open both the bleeder screw AND remove one of the temperature sensors on the t stat housing. This way air gets out on both sides of the thermostat. To add a little ghetto, blow into the coolant reservoir to force the bubbles out; or you can disconnect the reservoir and make sure it's above the level of the tstat housing when filling.

[Doughnut]

For those interested, my hose layout is correct. The diagram sucks balls...but oh well.

I had some major bubbles that needed to be correctly bled. I got it to work fine, but like a dumbass I opened the filler cap and I am back to square one. Case and point...bleed the shit out of it, then bleed it again. :/

So when you opened the cap again after you bled it you introduced another air pocket into the system?

Also, may be a stupid question but, can you have a air pocket in the system even if the gauge only reads like normal operating temp.?

Or if the m30 does not over heat means there is no air in the system?

[RickSloan]

pretty much if you have heat, and the car is not over heating. unless in the M30 case,with no clutch fan. if your sitting to long with out an aux fan and it overheats, this might not be because you have air bubble. But in generall no over heating and heat from the vents means no air bubbles.

[Heysüß]

bump... I'm assuming this is my problem. Had my car sit still for about 3 months cooled fine (1/4 temp) when driving in back roads and all that (no fan). As long as I kept myself moving I never got above 1/2 temp.

After 3 months of it sitting there waiting on parts and me trying to fix an oil leak and taking out the radiator to get a front view of the engine I'm pretty sure I didn't fill the system correctly.

It now overheats TOO fast, almost as quick as my RPMs going up and as soon as I cruise a little bit or leaving still running it goes down a bit. I'm assuming this means I have air in my system right?

oh and the temp changes are somewhat abrupt (needle jumping back and forth) it's not a smooth constant trip up to red. Any suggestions R3v? thanks!

[Doughnut]

bump... I'm assuming this is my problem. Had my car sit still for about 3 months cooled fine (1/4 temp) when driving in back roads and all that (no fan). As long as I kept myself moving I never got above 1/2 temp.

After 3 months of it sitting there waiting on parts and me trying to fix an oil leak and taking out the radiator to get a front view of the engine I'm pretty sure I didn't fill the system correctly.

It now overheats TOO fast, almost as quick as my RPMs going up and as soon as I cruise a little bit or leaving still running it goes down a bit. I'm assuming this means I have air in my system right?

oh and the temp changes are somewhat abrupt (needle jumping back and forth) it's not a smooth constant trip up to red. Any suggestions R3v? thanks!

I'm not sure if there is any relation between the temp. gauge and the SI board batteries but this might be your erratic needle problem.

Or, you have an air pocket causing the erratic needle/overheating problem. Coolant temp. sensors don't tend to work well when there is no coolant around them.

Use the top hose squeezing technique while filling and run it for awhile without the cap on. GL.

[Heysüß]

I'm not sure if there is any relation between the temp. gauge and the SI board batteries but this might be your erratic needle problem.

Or, you have an air pocket causing the erratic needle/overheating problem. Coolant temp. sensors don't tend to work well when there is no coolant around them.

Use the top hose squeezing technique while filling and run it for awhile without the cap on. GL.

thanks! I'll give this a shot tomorrow. :up:

[lashtx]

thanks! I'll give this a shot tomorrow. :up:

Erratic temp needle behavior, in my case, was the result of the ground nut on the back of the gauge coming loose and the post it was on making intermitant contact. Pull the cluster and check the nut.

Kris

[Thingtwö]

Quickest bleeding procedure I have found is to remove one of the plugs or sensors from the t-stat housing then fill the reservoir until coolant over flows out of the opening that is in the t-stat housing from when you removed the bolt/sensor. By making the coolant over flow from the t-sat housing ypu are forcing out all the air. I never had any luck with that pesky bleed screw.

Also I am not running a thermostat so you may need to remove the bleed screw as well to make sure there aren't any bubbles on the other side of the thermostat.

[Heysüß]

Erratic temp needle behavior, in my case, was the result of the ground nut on the back of the gauge coming loose and the post it was on making intermitant contact. Pull the cluster and check the nut.

Kris

It's cooling normal now, but I'm definitely going to give this a look because it has twitched once or twice before all this. thanks!

[LowR3V'in]

very weird I'd never had to bleed is so thoroughly.

are you guys forgetting to fill the radiator first?
Or filling the system until you see coolant come out the open bleed hole?

[E30 Beast]

That could be it lowr3v, never filled the radiator with fluid, just applied fluids through reservoir bottle with screw of t stat housing

[csermonet47]

So, riddle me this.

A few weeks ago, I had everything bled. The fan kicked on. Heat worked fine. Then I decided to move the motor back, so I pulled everything out and then put it back in. I am running this hose configuration:



After getting everything hooked back up, my heat is intermittent and my fan will not kick on. I didn't change any wiring on the fan or anything. None of the fuses are blown. I believe there is air in the system but whenever I crack the bleeder, only coolant comes out and the coolant temp doesn't reach half unless I stay still for a long time (5-10 minutes) I tried the method as described on mye28 with no luck. I have been driving without a fan for a few weeks now with no issues. It takes forever to heat up. I just sat in my driveway for a good 5 minutes with the front elevated and it still only bled coolant. Any ideas?

[Doughnut]

So, riddle me this.

A few weeks ago, I had everything bled. The fan kicked on. Heat worked fine. Then I decided to move the motor back, so I pulled everything out and then put it back in. I am running this hose configuration:

(image)

After getting everything hooked back up, my heat is intermittent and my fan will not kick on. I didn't change any wiring on the fan or anything. None of the fuses are blown. I believe there is air in the system but whenever I crack the bleeder, only coolant comes out and the coolant temp doesn't reach half unless I stay still for a long time (5-10 minutes) I tried the method as described on mye28 with no luck. I have been driving without a fan for a few weeks now with no issues. It takes forever to heat up. I just sat in my driveway for a good 5 minutes with the front elevated and it still only bled coolant. Any ideas?

Oh, you may want to try a known working temp sensor for the thermo fan, sounds to me like it's playing with your head!

Ps. Nice picture BTW :o

[csermonet47]

The sensor is brand new and it worked fine before I had to redo my cooling hoses. I will be flushing it out over the next few weeks and refilling it. Hopefully it will do the trick. Thanks ;)

[csermonet47]

Flushed out old coolant and put new coolant in today. Same problem ... Driving around the temp is fine but the aux fan doesn't kick on and the heat is still spotty. Don't know what to do now. Maybe thermostat issues or something?