Have you tried jumping the fuel pump relay socket? At least that will allow you to test the pump for a while to see if it's working. Just pull the relay out and stick a little piece of wire or a paper clip in the two sockets that the relay would normally connect to complete the circuit.
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'88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5 -
Alright.
I'm back again, after a long hiatus.
Buffalo winters are not the best times to be working on a car, inside or out. Besides, it seems like this winter has been the coldest in a long time, at least to me. My poor car has been covered in about 4 feet of snow until about 2 weeks ago, and with school and work I haven't been able to work on it for a long time.
However, my parents decided that they're going to move to Reno soon, leaving me here to finish up with school. My dad works for GM, so he's trying to retire as quick as possible so they can leave.
Which means either my car has to be running, sold, or junked, the latter two I would rather not do. So I've started trying to figure out the problems again.
My fuel pump relay turned out to be bad, so I replaced it and drained the tank of the 6 month old gas that was likely causing some issues. I put some new gas in it, tried to start it, and it's still having some issues. It seems to start up right away and stall, and then turn over without catching or starting. It almost seems like it's getting a weak spark, but checking the plugs it seems to be sparking fine. It is not catching at all, which it should be doing, considering it's getting good fuel and there is a spark. The only other thing I think it could be is the timing being so horribly off that it won't catch at all, but I don't think that could be possible considering I have the crank sensor mounted and spaced correctly.
The most frustrating thing is that it appears to be a relatively simple issue, yet I can't figure out what it is. I might take a video of it and post it up later this week to see if that could help. Right now it is too windy (30-40mph winds) to do much of anything.Comment
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My guess is you have the wrong combination of injectors and computer. If the injectors dont match the computer then they will flood the motor out. Hence why it starts for a second after you let the car sit for a while. What computer are you using and what injectors?First: 1984 318i
Second: 1987 325
Third: 1987 325is
Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)Comment
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Ya thats the right combination but it still seems to me like its flooding out. Maybe pull the plugs and crank it over. See if gas is pouring out of the holes. I had a computer problem once that kept the injectors wide open.First: 1984 318i
Second: 1987 325
Third: 1987 325is
Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)Comment
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well it doesnt necessarily have to be a computer problem. could be a short on the wire going from the injectors to the computer. bad MAF, FPR, O2 Sensor, Hmm thats about all i can think of but i think its a computer problem. see if the wire going from the injectors to the computer is grounded with the key on. if it is then its keeping the injectors on all the time. its either the computer or the shorted wireFirst: 1984 318i
Second: 1987 325
Third: 1987 325is
Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)Comment
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No o2 sensor is better than a faulty one.'86 E30
'05 E53 X5
'72 Firebird
'10 Prius
'03 TundraComment
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a noid light would help too. when plugged into the injector plug it should just flash real quick while cranking. if it on constant or almost constant that would narrow it down to electrical and not something like too much fuel pressure.First: 1984 318i
Second: 1987 325
Third: 1987 325is
Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)Comment
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doubt itFirst: 1984 318i
Second: 1987 325
Third: 1987 325is
Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)Comment
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Tested w/ a light and it flashes. Picking up a new battery tomorrow because mine won't hold a charge.
Also, I've cleaned up the thread a bit so there are less useless posts by me in it. I'm getting back into this swap now that I'm graduating from college so I will update it more often.
It is definitely flooding, i can smell the gas, but it doesn't seem like a computer problem because I tested it with a light and it flashes like it should. My dad keeps telling me to put the original injectors back in to cut down on the fuel flow but I refuse because the guys on mye28 said it would fry my injector driver.
i need to figure out why it's getting so much fuel, it's literally flooding so much it's dripping out the exhaust.
Edit: doing a bit of research, I think I figured out a possibility. I've read that the later motronic cars did not come with cold start valves, but I believe my engine, since it is from an e23, came with one. I can't seem to find info to confirm this, but couldn't this be injecting extra feul in and therefore flooding the engine?Last edited by chadthestampede; 04-19-2009, 12:37 PM.Comment
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I answered your question in a little more detail over on mye28. I think you might be on the right path. Right now you have a CSV with no ECU control to it. It could very well be pumping gas.Comment
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If it's like m10 CSV, you can just unplug it for now while you are troubleshooting.Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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The issue is that it is unplugged already. He is running Motronic 1.3. 1.3 does not control the CSV. Unplugging the CSV in any case would not stop the flow of fuel to the valve. If the valve has failed, it could still pump fuel even if it has no electrical connection. They can fail open.Comment
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Cool man thanks a lot. I'll have to check it when I get a chance to go home.
Now theoretically as long as I could get it shut, it would stay shut since the ecu has no control over it, right?
The only reason I ask is that when I unplugged it last time the ICV stopped running, so I'm not quite sure if I could just unplug it indefinitely.Comment
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