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    #31
    Nah, the exhaust is fine. I'll post shots of my horrific abortion of an exhaust that is on my 6er when I get a chance... You said you did some work to the engine when it was apart, right? Are you sure the valves are adjusted properly? Are you 100% certain that the camshaft timing is correct??
    '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5

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      #32
      Hi, have you done a compression check yet. My m30 ran wierd when I installed it a couple months ago ,I couldn't put my finger on it , and I had found the timing chain guides broken,causing cam timing to be slightly off. Not to say this is your problem how, but you could have some bad valves or something .You know how donor engines are. Do a comression and leak down test ! If that don't work replace more parts:D

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        #33
        I haven't done a compression test yet, I was gonna do one today but I got distracted. Timing chain and tensioners are new, head was gone through by a shop that I trust. I am 98% positive I set the timing correctly.

        I brought a noid light home from work so I could be positive that it was my injectors and not the harness. All good. My uncle was there so I cranked it over to show him what it was doing and it started. wtf. I ran it for a bit to hear how my exhaust sounded ( its quieter than it was on the e?) and turned it off.

        I was excited to get it running and didn't want to wait for my injectors to come so I went over to a junkyard that was open late and pulled a few injectors off a crown vic. I got home and went to start it again to decide what ones I should change and it started running like shit. I could hold it wide open and it wouldn't rev above 1500. I was checking that all the connectors were still connected when it backfired and turned off. Now it wont start again. Its not like before though, this is more like a put put sound rather than the previous crank crank pop crank.

        Video of the new problem
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        I haven't installed the crown vic injectors yet.
        Byron
        Leichtbau

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          #34
          More and more I am thinking your timing is off. Pop the valve cover off, line up the crank to the tdc mark, check to make sure cylinder 1 is at tdc (long extension or screwdriver in spark plug hole - NOT WHILE ROTATING though!!), and check to make sure the cam lobes are not touching the rockers and are symmetrical looking when you are straight over the head. If they are off one way or another, your timing is incorrect. Yes, it's very basic, but you can tell. Post pics if you aren't sure.
          '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5

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            #35
            I am almost positive that it is correct. I rotated it like 10 times when I set it and it was good.
            Byron
            Leichtbau

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              #36
              Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
              I haven't done a compression test yet, I was gonna do one today but I got distracted. Timing chain and tensioners are new, head was gone through by a shop that I trust. I am 98% positive I set the timing correctly.

              I brought a noid light home from work so I could be positive that it was my injectors and not the harness. All good. My uncle was there so I cranked it over to show him what it was doing and it started. wtf. I ran it for a bit to hear how my exhaust sounded ( its quieter than it was on the e?) and turned it off.

              I was excited to get it running and didn't want to wait for my injectors to come so I went over to a junkyard that was open late and pulled a few injectors off a crown vic. I got home and went to start it again to decide what ones I should change and it started running like shit. I could hold it wide open and it wouldn't rev above 1500. I was checking that all the connectors were still connected when it backfired and turned off. Now it wont start again. Its not like before though, this is more like a put put sound rather than the previous crank crank pop crank.

              Video of the new problem
              Store your photos and videos online with secure storage from Photobucket. Available on iOS, Android and desktop. Securely backup your memories and sign up today!


              I haven't installed the crown vic injectors yet.
              To add to this nothing changed when I sprayed starting fluid in the intake.
              Byron
              Leichtbau

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                #37
                Wow, I am too starting to think it is a timing problem.

                Can't really think what else it could be unless it has no compression or most of the injectors have gone bad...
                ///Monstrosity. (OO≡≡[][]≡≡OO)

                Aside from showing yourself to be offensive, lacking experience and ignorant in the ways of business, you're also illiterate and imprudent. Beyond that, your sense of liability is severely impaired.

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                  #38
                  I put the crown vic ones in today. Tried starting it and it wouldn't, but it sounds like it used to again. I pulled my valve cover to check that the chain was still in the right place and it was. Before i put the afm back on, I got pissed and soaked the intake with carb cleaner. Tried to start it again and it fired right up for about 2 or 3 seconds. It sounded like it was running right.

                  I'm going with fuel pump now. Nothing happens if I jump 87 and 30 on the relay, but I can hear the one under the door going while I crank the engine. Cory has a new one sitting around so I'm gonna try that tonight when I get back from work.
                  Byron
                  Leichtbau

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                    #39
                    Good catch! I'm surprised that it ran off of the in-tank pump (E30s have an in tank don't they?) or a really weak main pump. Let us know if that fixes it!
                    '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5

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                      #40
                      Yay, (mostly) all better now.

                      Changed the in tank pump and it started right up, but still wasn't running right. Drove it around a bit anyways but my radiator started leaking from a little crack in one of the end tanks. While I was trying to fix that, my ebay injectors showed up, so I put them in and it ran almost perfect. Went out for a drive and the radiator fully shit the bed. :(



                      The reason I say mostly though is when I first start it up, it idles around 2k, but the warmer it gets, the higher the idle gets. By the time I got back it was at about 5k in neutral. I checked the throttle linkage but nothing was binding.

                      My guess is the coolant temp sensors, as my temp gauge isn't working either. Does that sound like it could be right?
                      Byron
                      Leichtbau

                      Comment


                        #41
                        Yeah, could be a coolant temp sensor (the one for the ECU is different than the one for the gauge), ICV, or as simple as a vacuum leak. I bet you are relieved that it ran correctly until the radiator died though!! Congrats!
                        '88 528e /// '88 M5 /// '89 951 /// '98 E430 /// '02 M5

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                          #42
                          Which sensor is which? Is there any way to test them?

                          I'm pretty sure the ICV is working, it hums and all. I do have a small vacuum leak on the valve cover vent hose, but the rising rpm as the engine gets warm makes me think it has something to do with coolant. The gage may just be bad- it is a new cluster.
                          Byron
                          Leichtbau

                          Comment


                            #43
                            I also noticed that if you open the throttle too quickly, the engine stumbles before catching, but if you open it smoother, it revs up fine.

                            Problem in video

                            (The place that did my head apparently didn't set the valves correctly)



                            To try and fix the idle, I made sure the tps was adjusted correctly. I started to unplug connectors to see if any made a difference, but none did anything extreme- maybe a 500 rpm difference max.

                            My new radiator should be here tomorrow; once I get that in I will be able to run the car longer than 5 minutes and really diagnose it.






                            And yes, I was extremely relieved I got got it running :).
                            Byron
                            Leichtbau

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                              #44
                              good to see you getting things worked out.

                              persistence is a great virture.
                              sigpic
                              www.strictlyea.com

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                                #45
                                Originally posted by xlr8rbob View Post
                                good to see you getting things worked out.

                                persistence is a great virture.
                                I just wish it didn't cost so much, lol ;).




                                (freezing) Cold compression numbers:

                                1. 148
                                2. 152
                                3. 160
                                4. 150
                                5. 153
                                6. 146

                                Not too bad.
                                Byron
                                Leichtbau

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