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    #31
    +1 to what has been mentioned regarding timing chain/sprocket/guide health above

    fwiw – I pulled all my lifters and found many to have a ‘sticky’ action to them.

    Because there’s just the one orifice – and because there are 3 small chambers within – I soaked them and swished them around in gasoline.



    "The self-adjusting hydraulic tappets function with the use of engine oil pressure, internal chambers and orifice control.
    1. Engine oil pressure
    2. Large oil chamber
    3. Small oil chamber
    4. High pressure chamber"

    Here are the steps I took:

    1. Soak in gasoline
    2. Blow compressed air into orifice (you’ll see oil, foam, and goop come out)
    3. Dunk and swish in gasoline
    – repeat steps 2 & 3 until no “goop” comes out and lifters have smooth action to them
    4. Soak lifters in light-weight oil

    As you blow compressed air into orifice, you’ll feel the lifter pop into extended position. After that, it will either retract – or be stuck. You’ll be able to push it into retracted position with gentle pressure. This is definitely one of those jobs where you’ll want to be wearing those blue surgical gloves.

    As you repeat steps 2 & 3 – you’ll be able to detect a smoother action to them as all the gook is flushed from them.

    It was labor-intensive – but I feel good about having flushed the lifters in this manner.
    (free > new lifters)
    After sorting my timing issues and hand-flushing the lifters – I was very pleased with how quiet and “tick-free” engine became. Your results may vary.
    Last edited by Simon S; 06-15-2011, 12:37 PM. Reason: added lifter diagram picture
    -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

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      #32
      ^ I would have done that except the issue was my lifters would not hold any pressure what so ever. Causing them to bottom out whenever the cam shaft came around causing the ticking.
      sigpic

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        #33
        Still trying to get the crankshaft bolt off.

        Car doesn't turn over, thus bump method isn't working. I think its just low on juice. Is it because I am dumb and need to put the spark plugs back in?
        Reminiscing...

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          #34
          Put it in 5th with the ebrake on. Use a large breaker bar.
          Originally posted by Gruelius
          and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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            #35
            Originally posted by M42Technik View Post
            Still trying to get the crankshaft bolt off.

            Car doesn't turn over, thus bump method isn't working. I think its just low on juice. Is it because I am dumb and need to put the spark plugs back in?
            You're turning the crank and the engine is just turning over right?


            *disclaimer Horrible Explanation...*


            Do you still have your tool kit in the trunk?

            This is right below the starter:

            (taken from http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=62623)

            Remove this rubber plug. Its plugging a hole..durr.

            Take the long metal bar (from tool kit) you use w/ the spark plug tool (or use as a wheel lug alignment thingy) and push it through this hole while turning the engine over until it locks up (locking the flywheel). Breaking the crank bolt is easy peasy when the flywheel is locked like this.

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              #36
              Yes I have a bolt locking the crank in place through the bellhousing. I had it in neutral. Ken I will put it in 5th with the ebrake on and try again. Got a friend with a breaker bar too. I'll let you know if it worked out.
              Reminiscing...

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                #37
                I have a ticking nose.... I hope it isn't this. I shall post a video of it asap!

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by M42Technik
                  Yes I have a bolt locking the crank in place through the bellhousing. I had it in neutral. Ken I will put it in 5th with the ebrake on and try again. Got a friend with a breaker bar too. I'll let you know if it worked out.
                  If the crank is locked via bell housing hole - you're set there and putting it in gear w/ e-brake is moot after that.

                  Good luck. If need be, I've heard of people using a floor jack handle on 1/2" breaker bars or 1/2" socket wrenches for more leverage.
                  (breaker bar is a def better tool to use over a socket wrench if you can help it)

                  I had a kind of spooky experience where I had locked the crank - then discovered my crank bolt came loose with only moderate hand strength. At first, I was inclined to reuse the crank bolt - but after seeing how easily it came loose - a new one was ordered. There are contradicting arguments on replacing or reusing a crank bolt - but for as cheap as it is - I recommend replacing it (with copious loctite).
                  -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

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                    #39
                    I just replaced all timing components and all the lifters in my m42 and i still have a tick.. was pretty bummed when i started it up and found out it didnt fix it. the lifters definitely needed replaced though. a few were collapsed and had circles from heat on the bottom of them.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by keada714 View Post
                      I have a ticking nose.... I hope it isn't this. I shall post a video of it asap!
                      me too but it doesn't bother me.
                      Originally posted by Richard Fitzwell View Post
                      I just replaced all timing components and all the lifters in my m42 and i still have a tick.. was pretty bummed when i started it up and found out it didnt fix it. the lifters definitely needed replaced though. a few were collapsed and had circles from heat on the bottom of them.
                      m42 motor are just loud period.

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                        #41
                        Well I finally got the bolt off.

                        I'm concerned about valve/piston damage. The advance(?) camshaft was off by one tooth. Does this mean that diesel sound I'd heard is actually valves contacting pistons?

                        I cannot afford a rebuild of the head, so if I were to adjust it back to TDC, and put it back together, would this cause detrimental damage down the road? Would it worsen? I really need to get the car back on the road.
                        Reminiscing...

                        Comment


                          #42
                          Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't this just happen to someone, the noise included? Whoever it was they adjusted as necessary and everything was fine. I'll look for the thread.

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by Ryann View Post
                            Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but didn't this just happen to someone, the noise included? Whoever it was they adjusted as necessary and everything was fine. I'll look for the thread.
                            You may be thinking of Simon? His timing was off by just a small amount, and he adjusted his sprockets/chains accordingly.

                            I have worse issues now:







                            My lower timing case and cover have to be replaced. Yayyyyy
                            Reminiscing...

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by M42Technik View Post
                              You may be thinking of Simon? His timing was off by just a small amount, and he adjusted his sprockets/chains accordingly.
                              Yup, that's the thread.

                              Originally posted by M42Technik View Post
                              I have worse issues now
                              Yikes! Sorry man, that SUCKS. Any theory on what happened here?

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