For the crank bolt, 5th gear and a breakerbar + pipe always worked for me.
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Originally posted by Gruelius -
Ok, I'll add the chain to the list too. I'm going to try and borrow a cam locking tool from someone on M42club, they have a tool loaner thread. The crank bolt is the only part of the install that has me worried. I don't want to resort to the starter and block of wood tactic. I hope the bar and long pipe will be enough. So for now my list of parts looks like this: All 4 guides, tensioner, chain, idler sprocket, valve cover gasket set, crank shaft seal, upper and lower front chain case cover gaskets, top of lower chain case gaskets, and thermostat housing gasket. The PO said he put in a new thermostat and water pump recently so I'll likely leave those.
I'm going to try and get the parts ordered up in the next week or two. If there is anything else I'm missing let me know.
Thanks for all the help.Comment
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I didn't want to use that approach for the crank bolt, either, but it was the only way I could get it. *shrug* Otherwise, looks like a pretty good list!Comment
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Is this the bolt I want to replace 11-21-1-721-100? Should I replace this washer too 11-23-1-709-977? Can anyone point me to a good write up on how to do everything? I have the one from Brendan Purcell's site but it doesn't hurt to have more info.Last edited by vegaskyle; 10-21-2010, 06:46 PM.Comment
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You don't need to replace the crank bolt. It's hardened steel.
Also, unless your idler gear is in poor shape, I'd leave it alone. Mine had 300k on it and was PERFECT still... bearings spun for 10sec with a good spin.Originally posted by GrueliusComment
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My E36 Bentley manual (which is admittedly a piece of crap for this engine) says that M16 vibration damper bolt is a "stretch" bolt and should always be replaced. It also says the tightening torque is 330 Nm. Heh.
The deflector wheel (idler sprocket) is a pricy bit of metal, but it's the thing that killed my engine. I found the bearings for it in the oil pan. Despite the fact that the cost of that sprocket is about 45% of what I spent for the motor, I'll probably replace mine when I do the chain and other components this fall. :)
I found this thread helpful, mainly for the pictures. Even though it's awful, I'd get the Bentley manual, as well as the Haynes one. The problem with the '91 is that it's a bastard child of the E30 and E36: the chassis is obviously E30, but the engine and (parts of the?) electrical system are from the E36. The Bentley manual for the E30 only goes up to '91, and the E36 starts at '92. I had a hell of a time when I did my motor swap, and the E36 Bentley is missing large sections of engine stuff (like main crank bearings). I spent a lot of time in the garage with my laptop and the two manuals trying to get a consensus between them and the Internet… This is a pretty straight-forward job, tho. Search Google for "e36 Bentley pdf" and ye shall find. I have the dead-tree versions I picked up from eBay or sellers on this forum.Comment
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Im not going to take my chances on the idler gear. I'd be surprised if its in as good a shape as yours was Ken. I found on on ebay for $50 so it's kind of a no brainer. As far as the bolt goes, I may as well just get a new one. It's only like $10.
Besides the cam tool what else do I need other than sockets and allen keys? Do I need a puller for the crank seal?Comment
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Ok, I'm not sure if my noise is the same as everyone elses, but mine subsides once the engine warms up...it doesnt go away completely, but it's not near as bad as when i first start the engine. When it first starts it sounds like the whole thing is going to blow up...Comment
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Someone can correct me if Im wrong. The M42 has hydraulic lifters and they can make a lot of noise before the oil gets warm. That may be the sound you are hearing.
What weight oil do you use? I know 20w50 is recommended in a lot of places but is WAY to heavy. With todays synthetic oils go with a good 0w. All oil is too think at startup, most wear occurs at startup. I read an article about a guy that was running 0w-20 in his ferrari 599 and I think the same in his enzo when they also call for much thicker oil. I created a thread on bobistheoilguy.com and got a lot of differing opinions until someone with a M42 that had an oil temp gauge chimed in. The M42 had a fairly big sump and it cools very well so the temps stay quite low. Unless you track the car I would say go with a 0w-30. I think Im going to start with German Castrol 0w-30 and back down to redline 0w-30 then 0w-20 and see what if any changes I see.Comment
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I'm using Mobile 1 15w-50 if i remember correctly. I hope you're right, but JESUS it's loud on start. Perhaps I'll change the oil this weekend and see if it helps fix the problem.Comment
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The M42 also has a hydraulic timing chain tensioner, and they're prone to wearing out. It's a cheap part and pretty easy to replace. If it's bad, you'll get all kinds of chain slap. You can use a long screwdriver as a sort of stethoscope to home in on the source of the noise. If it's mostly at the front of the engine, the noise could be coming from the chain (… or a bad lifter up front … :D).Comment
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Do you pull the whole front of the motor to replace the tensioner?... i hope it's not a bad lifter...if so, F-it, and I'll swap when it blows. hahaComment
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