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Help me diagnose my troubles, suspect timing chain related. (with Pics)

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    #31
    sweet...I'll also be doing this :).

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      #32
      Put a quart of ATF in place of oil when you do your next change. The detergents in it will usually clean all of the gunk out of the lifters. Run it for a couple thousand miles.
      Originally posted by Gruelius
      and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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        #33
        Will do...in everyone's experience is Pelican best price on the tensioner? I'm guessing I need the piston and spring right?

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          #34
          Pelican has some good tutorials and that's reason enough to buy from them, but so far I've had really good luck with RM European Auto Parts. I use the parts diagrams from RealOEM and plug the part number into RM European's search field. 90% of the time there's a match. I've also bought parts from Bavarian Autosport and Turner Motorsport, which are both pretty local to me.

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            #35
            Originally posted by JoeyBones View Post
            Will do...in everyone's experience is Pelican best price on the tensioner? I'm guessing I need the piston and spring right?
            The tensioner is one piece. You can't buy the individual elements. Get a new washer for the cap too.
            Originally posted by Gruelius
            and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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              #36
              I didn't have my VIN at work; this is the exploded diagram for the valve train on the M42. #17 is the tensioner.

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                #37
                interesting, pelican has a spring and a piston available...seems its just the piston that you need.

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by JoeyBones View Post
                  interesting, pelican has a spring and a piston available...seems its just the piston that you need.
                  Link? There's a spring inside of it, but it's one sealed unit.
                  Originally posted by Gruelius
                  and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by vegaskyle View Post
                    What weight oil do you use? I know 20w50 is recommended in a lot of places but is WAY to heavy.
                    This is not true. You should always use oil that is best suited to the temperature range that you anticipate driving in, as specified in your owner's manual. For most of us that would be 15/50, synthetic or not.

                    I'd also have to disagree with the suggestion that the op replace his timing chain. Chains and gears wear together, and given the condition of those gears I say leave a perfectly good chain alone.

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                      #40
                      The m42 does come apart, the m44 does not. Compete replacement tensioners for the m42 are now superseded by the m44 one.
                      what you did to this car is like getting a supermodel naked and willing to do anything you please. now here you are faced with ths once in a lifetime opportunity and then you squander it by making her fuck you in the butt with a 24" strap on. you are a sad, silly little boy.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by Ryann View Post
                        This is not true. You should always use oil that is best suited to the temperature range that you anticipate driving in, as specified in your owner's manual. For most of us that would be 15/50, synthetic or not.

                        I'd also have to disagree with the suggestion that the op replace his timing chain. Chains and gears wear together, and given the condition of those gears I say leave a perfectly good chain alone.
                        The manual was written 20+ years ago. A lot has changed since then in the field of synthetic oil. A petro chemist with a M42 says he used shell rotella 5w-40 in his car because it was cheep well suited. That oil isn't what the manuel calls for and it's for diesel engines to boot. I look at the HTHS number, if its over 3 you are good to go. The vis @100c is another that I look at because it gives a good idea of what the oil will be like at operating temp. Eventually I'd like to install and oil temp and pressure gauge to really get an idea of what is best suited for this engine. German Castrol 0w-30 satisfies all the current BMW specs and is one of the highest quality oils you can buy. I'd trust that 10x more than some generic 15w-50. Her is a link to a great article about oil. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles

                        As for the timing chain. What you are saying is what I have also been told. I thought about it a while, my cam gears are in good shape they made it 165k. I'd rather they wear a little faster than have the chain snap. Who knows, Im still temped to replace everything.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by KenC View Post
                          Link? There's a spring inside of it, but it's one sealed unit.
                          http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/cata...pg3.htm#item16

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                            #43
                            I think that spring is for the original M42 tensioner. The newer M44 tensioner is all one unit as Ken said. As far as I know the only one sold is the newer one piece unit. Pelican was the best price I found for the tensioner. BMA is cheeper on some things and they say they will match prices so you can go that rout too. For guides and sprockets tischer BMW had the best prices I could find. eBay is another option but finding what you need is a pain in the ass.

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                              #44
                              KenC, Please change back your sig pic. I hate having to look at that big zero all the time.

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                                #45
                                Better? ;)

                                Gotta rep my alma mater! #1
                                Originally posted by Gruelius
                                and i do not know what bugg brakes are.

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