Replacement chain guide rail doesn't look right

[blalor]

I'm in the midst of pre-emptively replacing most of the timing chain components in my '91. I replaced the motor in the spring after the idler gear went south and took my intake valves with it. I've been procrastinating like crazy and am finally getting around to re-assembling everything after two rounds of parts orders from RM European and probably approaching 6 weeks of having the engine half-apart in my garage.

I went out today to put everything back together and found that the long chain guide rail on the intake-side of the engine doesn't look like what I ordered; if it is the right part, I'm confused by something.

First of all, the part listed on RealOEM.com is #6, p/n 11311247470. That turns up this part on rmeuropean.com, which looks identical to the one I received. That part number doesn't appear on the guide rail, however; I see these two on there, neither of which turns up any kind of hit on any of the parts sites:
11.31-1 727 697
1 928 402 826

These are the rails side-by-side:

Untitled by blalor, on Flickr

The problem is that top hole has an adjustable threaded insert with a slot in it, and the shouldered bolt that was used with the old guide rail sits higher than the old one did (which may or may not be a problem).

Untitled by blalor, on Flickr

There's also a weird "cap" that goes under the bolt and on top of the boss on the old rail, and it won't work with the new guide.

Has anyone else seen this part before? RM Euro's closed today, so I can't confirm that they sent me the right part. If this is the right part, what's the purpose of the adjustable thing in the bolt hole, and can I still use the old bolt there?

Thanks,
Brian

[Simon S]

I haven't done this job yet -
but I can tell you that the guide you received is a current/updated version.
Re-designed to be less failure-prone.

Looking at that slot makes me think you can adjust its position as needed.

[blalor]

Thanks, Simon. I talked with Ivan at RM Euro this afternoon; it is the correct part, but it requires a replacement bolt to go along with it, p/n 07 11 9 919 629. They don't carry it, so I'll need to pick it up from a dealership, but it's only 64¢; hopefully it won't be too difficult to find…

[///digitalme]

that bolt is the same size as the bolts that originally came with te car right? I hve the same guide rail and i was told it's made better than the older style.

[blalor]

I'm not sure. The diagram on realoem doesn't match my car exactly. The difference is the top-most bolt. It's the only one with a shoulder (non-threaded part near the head), and it doesn't have as many exposed threads when inserted through the guide rail.

I'm going to try to hit a dealership tonight; I'll post pics with the differences once I've got all the parts in hand.

[///digitalme]

Im going to do this job within the next week. Keep updating but I was told it should fit to the original bolts and what not. But I'm curious on the differences so that way I'll order that bolt you said. Are youdoig a complete timing overhaul?

[blalor]

Mostly complete. I bought the car in March with 180k on the clock; the idler sprocket let got within the first 1,000 miles. Chain slipped, all the intake valves got bent. I put in a "new" engine with 145k (or so) on it and wanted to be proactive. I'm replacing the chain, idler sprocket, crank sprocket, this chain guide, tensioner, and all gaskets. The cam sprockets look good, as does the crank sprocket (which I thought was worn and pointy, but it's really pretty much the same as the new one).

[///digitalme]

I'm doing the same. I also replaced the engine after a piston damaged 4 valves. My old engine had 196k with some racing cams. And replaced it with a 156k engine roughly 160 by now. I'm changing all guides, rails, all 4 sprockets, gaskets, pretty much all timing components pretty expensive on this little engine but once open it it's foolish not to change other stuff.

[Dj Buttchug]

aight. to answer your question the part is the correct part. it is just an updated guide. It is muchhh better. here is what needs to be done. use all existing parts besides the stupid collar thing on the bolt that was removed. Mine didnt come off so I opted for a different bolt that fit.

any further questions feel free to pm me. Ive done this countless times. im not happy about it but i can at least help you guys

[hyperE30]

Thanks, Simon. I talked with Ivan at RM Euro this afternoon; it is the correct part, but it requires a replacement bolt to go along with it, p/n 07 11 9 919 629. They don't carry it, so I'll need to pick it up from a dealership, but it's only 64¢; hopefully it won't be too difficult to find…

huh??

aight. to answer your question the part is the correct part. it is just an updated guide. It is muchhh better. here is what needs to be done. use all existing parts besides the stupid collar thing on the bolt that was removed. Mine didnt come off so I opted for a different bolt that fit.

any further questions feel free to pm me. Ive done this countless times. im not happy about it but i can at least help you guys

Thanks DJ... man I thought so too that's why I didn't get the stupid bolt..

[blalor]

The replacement bolt is 5-10mm longer than the one that was used for the old chain rail. The old one would work, but wouldn't really have enough bite, in my opinion. I've learned that there's nothing fancy about the bolts, so I'm now keeping track of the good hardware stores in the area. :)