Self Grenading M42 Part 2 : The FIX....

[Dj Buttchug]

you can lock the flywheel and torque the crank pulley bolt down.

I always have good luck with jb weld on small holes in radiators... ghetto, but it works well

[fiftytakedowns]

How can I lock the flywheel without pullin the tranny?

and did you just GOB JB in there or what?

Thanks

[blalor]

Engines don't "jump time" or skip a tooth.

…

Now something could have broken to the point of things hitting one another but I have never in my life seen a motor jump time. Even with a belt.

John, this is exactly what happened to my M42. :( The idler sprocket lost its bearings (literally; they were in the oil pan), and the excess slop in the chain allowed it to hop at least one tooth on the intake cam. Result: bent valves. The engine still ran, tho, kind of. Like Ryann said, you couldn't help but notice, but it definitely happened…

[blalor]

As for torquing that 22mm bolt, mine's not tight enough. The tightening spec is, what, 220 ft-lb or 320 ft-lb? I kept the flywheel locking tool in place and torqued the bolt to 140 ft-lb (the limit of my torque wrench) and called it a day. I'm not happy about that and need to find a way to make it tighter, but my flywheel locking tool doesn't look strong enough to take the load. Not sure I can put that much torque on the bolt with a breaker bar without caving the fender with my ribcage, either. ;)

You didn't ditch the vibration damper, right? Just the pulleys attached to it? The damper has the teeth on it for the crank position sensor…

[blalor]

As for torquing that 22mm bolt, mine's not tight enough. The tightening spec is, what, 220 ft-lb or 320 ft-lb? I kept the flywheel locking tool in place and torqued the bolt to 140 ft-lb (the limit of my torque wrench) and called it a day. I'm not happy about that and need to find a way to make it tighter, but my flywheel locking tool doesn't look strong enough to take the load. Not sure I can put that much torque on the bolt with a breaker bar without caving the fender with my ribcage, either. ;)

You didn't ditch the vibration damper, right? Just the pulleys attached to it? The damper has the teeth on it for the crank position sensor…

[fiftytakedowns]

As for torquing that 22mm bolt, mine's not tight enough. The tightening spec is, what, 220 ft-lb or 320 ft-lb? I kept the flywheel locking tool in place and torqued the bolt to 140 ft-lb (the limit of my torque wrench) and called it a day. I'm not happy about that and need to find a way to make it tighter, but my flywheel locking tool doesn't look strong enough to take the load. Not sure I can put that much torque on the bolt with a breaker bar without caving the fender with my ribcage, either. ;)

You didn't ditch the vibration damper, right? Just the pulleys attached to it? The damper has the teeth on it for the crank position sensor…

I just ditched the pulley attached to the Vibration damper.

the car is running now.

JB welding the Radiator as we speak. Im going to try and get some gun and see if I can torque it that way. that would be IDeal.

got the car started, tensioner has some pressure and it's running, although it's a bit rough.

I get sort of a ticking noise as if someone hasnt adjusted their valves. anyone familiar with this?

[blalor]

I've got a pretty consistent ticking, but I think it's coming from one of the injectors.

[KenC]

The ticking should go away after the lifters pressurize. What weight oil are you using? You can run a quart of ATF in lieu of oil for a couple thousand miles. The detergents will clean the gunk out of them.


To the other guy:
Don't use a gun on the crank bolt. Just put the car in 5th with the e brake on and use a long breaker.

[fiftytakedowns]

I'll try adding some of that ATF and see If it helps, Im getting some aggressive clanking from the top of the engine.

EDIT:
THE clanking just occurred today, not yesterday. I hink it may be due to lower oil pressure. Ill get in some more oil and see how it works.

[fiftytakedowns]

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13819714/MVI_0245.AVI

Heres a little video of what is goin on.

[Danny]

I'll probably have an m20 to sell you in a few weeks if you wanna go that route.

[fiftytakedowns]

I'll think about it or a 24v m50 or something. I'm getting more and more irritated with the m42, although I like the gas mileage. If I even get good gas mileage, my ODO is broken; I wouldnt know either way. The e30 is really taxing on me mentally.

Now the car drives and is what I woul like to say "done" I still have a bogging issue when the car is not completely warmed up, and I have replaced every sensor ETC. and Even When I am driving, Ill be driving at liek say 2500K RPM and cruising, and the car will just start bucking violently out of nowhere, as iff there is no fuel pressure or spark etc.. I think my wiring harness has been Fucked with hardcore.

[tjts1]

Now the car drives and is what I woul like to say "done" I still have a bogging issue when the car is not completely warmed up, and I have replaced every sensor ETC. and Even When I am driving, Ill be driving at liek say 2500K RPM and cruising, and the car will just start bucking violently out of nowhere, as iff there is no fuel pressure or spark etc.. I think my wiring harness has been Fucked with hardcore.

Mine totally used to do that too. I think its something about the DME getting hot after driving on the freeway for more than 30 minutes. I had the second 'chipped' DME in the glove box so I swap them and it would be fine for another 30-60 minutes until it got hot as well, then swap them again. Really F___ing frustrating until I figured out what was going on.
I'm sorry to hear about the the engine failure. I hope you get it back on the road. Thats a really nice slicktop.

[fiftytakedowns]

When's the next time your up in marin?

[tjts1]

March probably.