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Heater Core Delete Cap or Loop?

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    Heater Core Delete Cap or Loop?

    Ok guys, I know this is a dead horse and I have searched, but my situation is a little different. I bought the car with a leaky heater core that the PO had looped. I have rebuilt the engine and would like to get it running/driving and then worry about the heater core later. I already know I can cap the bypass hose from the middle of the head nipple to the black plastic pipe. What about capping the rear outlet from the head? It would go to the heater core inlet, and then the heater core return would go back to the rear of the plastic pipe.
    Should I run a line from the outlet on the head to the heater pipe or cap them both? Eventually, I'll replace the core but for now I'd like to get it running and make sure I'm going to keep this motor.



    #2
    Safest thing would be to run a hose as shown in blue in your 3rd pic. However I don't think the ends are the same size so that could be an issue.

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      #3
      2nd picture=fail. do not cap those off.
      the blue color you added which goes from the head to the plastic piping is missing a piece.
      there should be a rubber hose which is the return for your heater core.

      so find that piece run a tube from the head (where the blue starts) to the end of the hose you are missing.

      remember coolant flows directly out of that main port on the head.

      Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
      Ig:ryno_pzk
      I like the tuna here.
      Originally posted by lambo
      Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

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        #4
        Dj Buttchug - I think you're missing something. OP is trying to bypass the heater core completely. The hose to the core connects to the nipple on the rear of the head (where the right hand end of his blue line is) and the hose from the core back to the engine connects to the rear of the plastic pipe (where the left hand end of his blue line is). Running a single hose as shown by the blue line is correct.

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          #5
          Did the hose from the head outlet to the plastic pipe. Started it for the first time since getting it and tearing down to the block. Runs great! Has a bit of an idle concern, varies from 700-1500 rpm. Ran out of time for diag. All in all happy, not positive yet if the head is cracked or not, but so far so good. Thanks for all your help.

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            #6
            I will say you did a smashing job of relaying your question.

            Especially with your photo usage. Bravo

            Shit - I wish everyone would ask questions in this manner..

            Good luck
            -----Zen and the Art of e30 Maintenance - / - Zen TOC - / - Zen Summary

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              #7
              Originally posted by vpilarrt View Post
              Dj Buttchug - I think you're missing something. OP is trying to bypass the heater core completely. The hose to the core connects to the nipple on the rear of the head (where the right hand end of his blue line is) and the hose from the core back to the engine connects to the rear of the plastic pipe (where the left hand end of his blue line is). Running a single hose as shown by the blue line is correct.
              yea but the problem is that the two diameters are different... if the op wanted to make it easier he would use the piece thats missing there and then run it to the rear head port...

              never said it wasnt correct.

              Turbo M42 Build Thread :Here
              Ig:ryno_pzk
              I like the tuna here.
              Originally posted by lambo
              Buttchug. The official poster child of r3v.

              Comment

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