Simon's take on: 'Mess Under the Intake'

[AustinK425]

Bump, so I did the same thing as simon with the water pipe to head hose... Unfortunately after 25 miles of dialing the car in I saw a small plumes of smoke and the bend had torn. Went to my local auto parts store to find a workable molded piece but nothing I could work with... Anyone happen to know the exact diameter I need for that? Need something to work with until in order my silicone hose kit or find a decent alternative.

[Gerta]

I finally did this! But I haven't gotten to the hvac lines figuring that one out now

About time!

[AustinK425]

I finally did this! But I haven't gotten to the hvac lines figuring that one out now

[isamemon]

just want to make sure everyone doing this knows that the bmw black pipe that is only a few dollars more than the aftermarket one, is worth the extra 7 bucks.
I went the cheap route a while back. aftermarket pipe and o-ring, cleaned the mating surface of the block, new o ring. within less that a few k it was leaking at that point. Not enough to easily see, but I could smell antifreeze and was loosing fluid. Finally it got bad enough to start becoming visible pooling on the block
At the same time I did the delete I tried those block off caps, the rubber ones you can buy at a store. within that same few k miles one was forming cracks, so off they came and back to a hose

one person posted here that the 5/8 heater hose is too big for the head and he put in a pvc sleeve. well for me that's where those stupid block off caps worked. they are so thin, I cut the top off of one so it was just a small tube, pushed it on the head, then slid the heater hose over it and then the clamp, made the hose a much tighter fit

[Bimmian89]

can't believe how much irrelevant hoses there are under there lol you'd think these cars were made to drive in the North Pole with all those coolant lines

[InNeedOfBoost]

The fuel line is still soft and easy to move, its not dry rotted or anything.

The one on the booster was routed awkwardly...I fixed that.

The coolant lines like like the diagram and look fairly new, I think it was done at some point in its life. Wish I had some records on this car!

[roguetoaster]

I cannot see under the lower manifold, so I am not sure what was done with the coolant lines or if the water pipe is newish, but the vac lines are routed correctly. Two things I do note, one is that your FPR line looks really past it and two, that line from the lower manifold to the brake booster is really awkward and would make me worry for some reason.

[InNeedOfBoost]

Ok, so I went to attempt to tackle this today because I was going to do a black wrinkle finish on the manifold anyway and I figure while I was in there I decided to drop in the 19# 4 pintle injectors I got a while back (That's a whole other story, I had to make a thread about it.

Once I got the upper off, I soon realized that someone has already tackled this, at least I think so. The TB heater plate was already deleted and the ICV hose was already routed the way it is in the diagram in the OP.

Took a couple of pics for some confirmation:

Before I touched anything


The hose I'm pointing to goes from the intake tube to the ICV


This one goes from the valve cover down under the manifold


This is with the manifold off, still haven't removed any hoses or re-routed anything yet.


Am I seeing things or is this the finished product??

[MazterDizazter]

Just completed this. This write-up was very helpful, and it was very simple! All of the hoses in good shape were ones that were to be kept and all the ones that were cracked to hell were deleted, so that worked out conveniently. Here's hoping for no more vacuum leaks!

[roguetoaster]

Sorry if I didn't catch this while reading, but can you remove the TB heater plate completely and bolt the TB directly to the manifold? What a rubbish idea; I've had plenty of cars in New England winters and never had a throttle plate ice over...

Correct, as part of the whole deletion process. If you can make out the color difference in the diagram that's a good reference.

[MazterDizazter]

Sorry if I didn't catch this while reading, but can you remove the TB heater plate completely and bolt the TB directly to the manifold? What a rubbish idea; I've had plenty of cars in New England winters and never had a throttle plate ice over...

[roguetoaster]

Forgot you have that. Now I feel slightly envious/cheap with my stock intake manifold/TB, stock clutched fan and stock ignition. Then your pic reminded me that I need to change my cam sensor gasket which will force me to look at my dead stock engine bay. :(

[decay]

Not all URO/other knock off water pipes fail, the one on my Moms car is going strong after nearly two years. Comparing fit and finish the two parts are just worlds apart, so it is possible you will need to replace it. Look at needing to replace it as an excuse to service your injectors or something.

one upside of the dbilas setup is you don't have to remove the intake mani to get to that bit anymore :) after i did that, threw out the clutch fan and put an electric in front, suddenly i could reach EVERYTHING:



have only done TC tensioner, not the full job, but i "antishipate no shignificant problemsh".

[roguetoaster]

Now I am just curious as I finish the last two hoses, who has ran an oil catch can from PCV to throttle body. I saw someone using a small fuel filter and I was interested at how well that worked.

An in line fuel filter works decently as a catch can, the limited capacity can of course get to some people. Just be sure to get a drop down one which routes flow into a U pattern, not a straight through. IMO a catch is not really needed, but if you are having lots of oil seepage into the TB area you should look into replacing the gasket on the oil separator which is on the bottom of the valve cover.

fuuu. i had that pipe replaced by a shop when it broke last time i was on active duty. i guess i can plan on doing so again soon.

Not all URO/other knock off water pipes fail, the one on my Moms car is going strong after nearly two years. Comparing fit and finish the two parts are just worlds apart, so it is possible you will need to replace it. Look at needing to replace it as an excuse to service your injectors or something.

[decay]

Just spent an hour going through an inch and a half of project receipts. Found the part included with a miscellaneous BMA order I had placed. It had a manufacturer designation of “APA”. The price was $11.50. The real fucker is that I also found a blunttech estimate with what I presume to be the OE part for $16.41. This was in the fall of 2009, I was totally strapped at the time, and I didn’t know any better.

fuuu. i had that pipe replaced by a shop when it broke last time i was on active duty. i guess i can plan on doing so again soon.