Simon's take on: 'Mess Under the Intake'

[Simon S]

Just worried I may buy a hose that won't be compatible when or needed when doing the modification.

Matt, that list is as fucking comprehensive as I could fucking make it. e.g. intake gaskets are there because intake manifold gets removed – and you’ll need new gaskets. etc. I didn’t put anything on the list that didn’t need to be. To do the job and put it back together with worn/leaking parts/gaskets/hoses would a shame and a waste of time.

..does anyone know how hard it is to disconnect the fuel rail from the wiring harness?

Look at the connection plug – then unplug the connection plug.

One thing I did was have the engine running – then pull the #11 fuse. This cuts power to the fuel pump. The idea is that you’ll get the majority of fuel out of the system before disconnecting the lines. Note that you’ll still dump some fuel, but at least you’ve minimized it.

Any good tips on cleaning the injectors/intake ports while its off? Mineral spirits right? Or would a carb cleaner work similarly.

Yes. Carb cleaner on injectors. Brakeclean on intake ports. Not a whole lot of rocket science there. Whatever you’re comfortable with. Rinse them with WD40 if you like. When done, blow everything off with compressed air if available. Advise to install new injector o-rings and apply oil to them upon install.

You may want to replace the injectors.

Here’s the injector part number I ordered from Motor Man Fuel Injection Supply (www.injectors4u.com)
Bosch MPI injectors 0280150556
– from what I understand, they’re practically identical with exception of 4-pintle rather than our 2-pintles (as stated – for better fuel atomization).

Sorry for all the questions, just the more I know the more confident ill be tearing into this.

Again – you’ll be fine. Stop asking questions and just fucking go do it already. Google shit you’re curious about and come to your own conclusion – then go fucking do it.

Search. Research. Educate yourself - or go take your car to a fucking mechanic. The more you know the better off you'll be. Shit - I would barely trust myself if it wasn't for the hundreds of hours of research I've done. Even then, someone always has a different take on things.

and read this while you're at it..

[MattBimmer]

Thanks a lot. And the first list of parts is great just trying to see if there are certain hoses that I need to buy from blunt, or ones not to worry about. Just worried I may buy a hose that won't be compatible when or needed when doing the modification. Thanks a lot and does anyone know how hard it is to disconnect the fuel rail from the wiring harness? Any good tips on cleaning the injectors/intake ports while its off? Mineral spirits right? Or would a carb cleaner work similarly. Sorry for all the questions, just the more I know the more confident ill be tearing into this.

[Simon S]

What hoses should I buy from blunt and which should be parts store hoses?

The answer is in the first post of this thread provided as clearly as I was able to communicate – complete with part numbers, descriptions, pictures, diagrams, and everything.

Also any info on the wiring harness it scares me more than anything... Any notes of warning about it. I was hoping to tag each wire with tape and mark the spot where it came from. This is my first big wrenching project besides the Rack swap.

We all start somewhere – and you’re taking the initiative to do it so you’re showing the needed chest hair already. Tagging/labeling is a good idea. One mistake I made was to mix oil pressure and temp sensor connections at first. Another good idea is to take lots of reference pictures as you work. Most all things only go together in a certain way - so it's pretty foolproof. You’ll be fine.

And like I said – things start making sense as you take things apart. Did for me anyway.
Godspeed.

[MattBimmer]

What hoses should I buy from blunt and which should be parts store hoses
Also any info on the wiring harness it scares me more than anything... Any notes of warning about it. I was hoping to tag each wire with tape and mark the spot where it came from. This is my first big wrenching project besides the Rack swap.

[MattBimmer]

Alright, I appreciate it! You'll probably be getting some PM when I start to dig into this thing.

[Simon S]

Yes.

[MattBimmer]

Thanks.
The bypass valve and associated bypass valve hoses are spliced into the stock heater core hoses.

To answer your question, new heater core hoses do not “eliminate the need”. The choice to install a bypass valve is up to you.

Per answers given in this thread, the bypass valve is a thermostat that closes off flow to the heater core in the event of elevated coolant temperatures. If you’re not worried about overheating your engine/coolant system, then I wouldn’t worry about installing the bypass.



If you get new heater core hoses, install them as is to eliminate bypass valve - or cut them in appropriate spots to incorporate bypass valve.

Fwiw, here's a RealOEM link to the "thermostat"/bypass valve parts and plumbing:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...35&hg=64&fg=99

Simon ur write up is the only one giving me confidence to tackle this. In the photo the new and used comparison the new will come like that from say.... Blunttech. Then I plug it to the heater core and don't worry about bypass valve?

[AustinK425]

Oh ok im still pretty green my m42 is in bad shape sorta...
Like to seem some how save it before it goes, ideally replicate your project but really starting with scratch and winter in the northwest isnt exactly an ideal time to start when you dont have a garage lol

[Simon S]

So over all to pull this off properly its gonna cost $588?

Oh, no - sorry if that total was confusing..

The last three items on the list there are preventative/"while you're in there" parts. A new ICV in particular isn't needed unless the old one is failing.

Air filter was included since it’s always a good idea and the intake system gets removed.

Fuel injector O-rings included since originals are now 20+ years old.

I suppose one can easily skip new hose clamps as well. The OE ones on my car were of good quality material and construction (quite re-usable). Like I’d sooner trust OE/original hose clamps over new “parts store” clamps any day.

Also note prices are from realOEM.com at list (dealer) prices as of whenever I made that post.
You’re going to get considerable savings going with a distributor such as blunntech (which I highly recommend).

[unevolved]

Where did you get that? I did mine for exactly $0 USD. I just used some hoses lying around.

[AustinK425]

So over all to pull this off properly its gonna cost $588?

[bsturman92]

really? i was doin alot of reasearch on m42club and e30tech and heard if a few people having there hoses collapse on them. idk if they were using weak or improper hoses or what but i thought i would ask before i went ahead and ordered it all... but i had just got 5 feet of silicone vacuum hose from a customer of mine who has his own shop! so i guess im going that route. cant hurt and shit it was free.... no complaining here! but now i cant decide whether or not i want to delete all the coolant relief hoses or not. that picture you posted of urs simon looks clean AF. i love it. but f$%* having a chance of hot coolant spilling on my leg.... im not tryin to bring up that discussion for everyone to have again but i really wanna get rid of em just because of how clean it looks lol

[bmwman91]

The hoses won't collapse. They crack & give you awesome vacuum leaks to chase, but they don't collapse lol.

[unevolved]

Yeah, I mean, it won't hurt, but it isn't exactly necessary.

[Simon S]

meh.
Like you could and all but it's just a whole lot easier to buy/use OE parts since they're all pre-shaped.
It's not like I worry about them ever collapsing..