M42 timing marks: WTF?

[bwawuz02]

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA, M42 newbie. You guys, seriously???

Yes it is the toothed sprocket. Since the timing marks aren't lining up the ignition is going to be way off because the computer thinks the engine is at a different point in the rotation.

It doesn't matter where the sensor is mounted, it only matters that the tooth gap is set to TDC and the timing mark (notched tooth) lines up with the arrow on the oil filter housing. But yeah, the E36 and E30 have the sensor mounted in the same place. I just double checked and the timing mark/tooth gap are the same on the serpentine balancer also.

I have no fucking clue how you could put it on wrong though. Is there any possiblity that chain slack in the first couple revolutions somehow threw the timing off? Typically you should set everything, rotate the engine a good 5-10 times, then check that everything is still lined up/not binding anywhere. Not trying to insult your intelligence/experience, just trying to help :)

wait, I think I've solved it. Looks like you somehow got an M20 trigger wheel mixed in
check the correlation of the locating pin to the tooth gap in this pic, looks like it matches your discription perfectly. Whereas on the M42 trigger wheel, the locating pin is at 3 o'clock when the tooth gap is at 12 o'clock




Here's the M42 wheel for comparison

[StereoInstaller1]

See, and thats the thing: I have 2 blocks and 2 toothed wheels sitting here. Both fit both block the same: the mark at TDC.

From MEASURED TDC, with the flywheel lock in, this toothed wheel is off. I know my cam timing is right, as first, I am over 210PSi across the board and second, the lock tools line up perfectly, as do the arrows on the cam sprockets. I am going to tear into this sumbish in just a couple of minutes, I will post pics.

I want to know what or how this could happen, but WTF, I have never worked on an M42 at all, ever. Now I know them well enough that I can safely rebuild one to a top notch standard, if I ever feel like putting myself and Justin through that kind of pain again. This fucking thing had best purr.

[StereoInstaller1]

UPDATE: It runs.

So, as I have already said, this motor was made from 3 motors...well, turns out we missed the locater pin on the toothed wheel.

What happened most likely is when we were assembling the front pulleys, we shoved that pin through, rotated the wheel 1 bolt, and shoved that pin through.

So, simple stupid fuckup.

Runs like a champ, took about 20 seconds for the lifters (all freshly cleaned remember, fresh head) to get quiet, now it just purrs. The coolant bled perfectly thanks to TwistedNuts guide, took 1 shot at it adn the heater wails.

Time to get it together and go for a spin.

Oh yeah, thats right, I get to set up the wrong spark plug wires in the wrong order to make them fit...but I already labeled the wires, so that will only take a minute.

This damn thing is almost out of here!

Luke

[Ryann]

This was starting to remind me of Buick I worked on once where the rubber in the balancer was beginning to come apart and the tone wheel for the crank sensor was moving around on the hub.

The coolant bled perfectly thanks to TwistedNuts guide, took 1 shot at it adn the heater wails.

Stan's the man.

[bwawuz02]

link to said write up by TwistedNut plz/thx

[Ryann]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=230380

[harv]

Food for thought.

Last summer at the Vintage, I was throwing parts at my 318is to help it keep running. The first thing Dave Mason and I went after (With support from Blunt of course) was the crank angle sensor. The only one that was to be had anywhere at the time was a non OEM one. It didn't fit. It would have bolted up but the wire came out at an angle that was right in the belts. The cable was longer too. My guess is the e36 timing sensor is in a slightly different position and I guess so is the crank trigger.

John

[harv]

Oh never mind. Didn't see there was one more page....

John

[JakeP]

I'm going to bump this thread, I seem to be having a similar ignition timing issue.

Woodruff key is in the crankshaft correctly, pulley is lined up with the dowel pin (also verified by physically checking that #1 is at tdc when the arrow and notched tooth line up), coil plugs seem to be in the right coils, plug wires are matching their cylinders, have oil pressure.

Engine sounds perfect with the plug wires off or the plugs pulled. (not a valve, cam, or other head related problem) but as soon as I plug the wires on the plugs it has a crazy knocking sound which means my ignition timing is off.

HALP

[StereoInstaller1]

damn damn damn...what did I do?

Post some pics of your timing setup, I remember the crank pulley being weird.

[JakeP]

Thanks for the quick response sir! Pictures as requested at tdc:



In this one you can see the notched tooth, the gap in the teeth, and the pin orientation.

[JakeP]

DON'T LISTEN TO THE LAST VIDEO UNTIL YOU TURN YOUR SPEAKERS DOWN. I accidentally covered the mic until 0:19.

Without plugs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1zmnQkv1yA&feature=youtube_gdata_player

With plugs:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DMYdGkmtt3U&feature=youtube_gdata_player

With wires:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dWphZ0X-MOs&feature=youtube_gdata_player

[JakeP]

Had a couple friends texting me, Figured it out. Intake cam got bumped before it was tightened, causing too much intake advance. Not ignition timing related. Thanks again.

[StereoInstaller1]

Had a couple friends texting me, Figured it out. Intake cam got bumped before it was tightened, causing too much intake advance. Not ignition timing related. Thanks again.

YOUCH! Hope for no bent valves!

[JakeP]

Nope, was still in the factory slots and wasn't off a tooth, just advanced about 7*.