How long did you run it for after woulds it can take a little while to go away. If it is not the tensioner then I would guess one of your guides is fucked.Have you tried pulling the oil pan off and seeing if there is any plastic peices in the bottom?
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I've thrown in the towel, the cars booked to go in this monday to get done ill keep you all up dated with what the problem is for future refrences thanks for your help guys.
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BEFORE YOU DO THE TIMING CHAIN>>>
Check to see that the heat shield over the header is not slightly bent, and rattling/buzzing at certain rpms. Just bend it a little, test the revs, etc.
You don't want to pay $1200 for something that you might be able to just...bend.Comment
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At least from the video, it sounds like a sloppy timing chain. The timing chain assembly is sort of over-complicated and a few things can go wrong to cause it to make ugly noises. It is fairly typical to have it make those noises at very specific RPMs since the chain's mass and the amount of slop in it will lead to natural resonances / "whipping" at specific speeds. It sounds like you replaced the tensioner piston and got it pumped up, and the noise didn't change.
So, it could be a few things:
- Worn or broken tensioner guide rail (parts 14, 15 & 16)
- Worn or about-to-fail deflector sprocket (or the part of the timing case it mounts to is about to break off) (part 11)
- The driver's side guide rail's top bolt stripped out of the head & is rattling against the upper timing case cover. (part 9 which holds part 6)
- As someone else mentioned, check the little heat shield over the motor mount, under the exhaust header. Also check the heat shield that guides the ignition wires.
The only hard part about getting in there is the removal of the 22mm crank damper / pulley bolt. You can loosen it with a 18" breaker bar & 22mm impact socket, using the starter motor. Remove the air intake box and put a 4"x4"x12" piece of wood down there. Remove the belts. Stick the breaker bar onto the bolt with the handle about vertical. Get in the car and try to start it. WHAM! The bolt will usually come loose after 4 or 5 smacks like that. Getting it properly tightened is a pain in the rear since it requires 240ft-lbs, and the clutch usually slips at around 190 ft-lbs. I would try to get a piece of steel plate (1/2" thick, maybe 4"x18" long) and drill some holes at one end on a drill press that match the 6 main pulley holes so it can be bolted on & used to hold the crank.Comment
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550 bucks later one timing chain one tensioner and timing chain link its done haha sucks to be lazy thanks for your help . . . moral of the story don't let your mates tamper with tensioners maybe
cheersComment
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lol it was the tensioner all along.sigpicComment
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yeah haha it was all well
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