Replacing Timing Case

[PeabnutBubber]

I had an thread about a tensioner issue on m42club which eventually got me here to replacing the timing case. I'm pretty inexperienced and learning everything as I go. Any help taking this thing out and putting in the new one is super appreciated!

http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14151

I've received a new timing case from a cool dude who gave me a great price for it. (Dj Buttchugz) Now, I'm in the process of pulling everything out and replacing the cases.

Do you guys have any suggestions or tips on replacing this thing?
I found out that there's the oil pressure relief valve which should be updated or at least cleaned out and polished. As for the gaskets there's had a great permatex-on-gasket technique which I'll taking advantage of as well. Anything else I should know?

[KenC]

Looks like you're probably going to get good advice over there.

Are you going to remove the head?

Get the updated pressure relief valve. It's like $15 for the whole assembly.

I'd recommend skipping the paper gaskets all together and use "The Right Stuff" RTV. It's like $20 for a pressurized tube and seals extremely well. Give the profile gasket junctions a good slathering.

[KenC]

I'd also check for crank play, and pop in the updated 360 thrust bearing while you have the lower pan off. If you have any crank play at all, you'll probably have to scrap the crank.

[PeabnutBubber]

No, I'm not going to remove the head and the engine is still in the car. As for the pressure relief valve, I think it's a good idea to get the new one and because I have to keep ordering gaskets, I might just go ahead with "the right stuff".

I was under the car a few minutes ago and I need to know if I'm going to have to remove the whole upper oil pan or if there is a way to cheat and pull the timing case without removing the whole deal.

[Dj Buttchug]

you can remove the timing case without dropping the pan but its a sketchy job. dropping the pan would be the best way. it prevents you from having to wedge the timing case in and messing up the gaskets. the rear profile gasket is a bitch. if you dont get it perfect itll leak. ask me how i know lol

[KenC]

As buttchugz stated, you'll either need to pull the head or lower the upper pan. You can't wedge the timing case in there.

Be careful with the profile gaskets, and use RTV on the junctions... or hell, all over it.

I'd drop the upper pan as much as possible. It won't come out unless you lower the subframe. Then install the timing case. I'd squirt RTV all around the upper pan, and put it back up.

[PeabnutBubber]

You guys are right, it would be mad foolish to try to cut corners here. I was under the car after I posted that yesterday and was suddenly struck by the inspiration to do it right and not be lazy.

So what Ken was saying is just to use no paper gasket whatsoever and just use rtv?

Also, I'm having a hard time pulling the alternator out. I pulled all the bolts from it but it seems as if its held in with something else and I don't want to yank it out and possibly break something.

[Massimo]

I have heard you can remove the upper pan on the M42 with out removing the sub frame?

[Ryann]

^Yes you can, Geno (Brillantrot318is) and I did this with his pan. If you unbolt the motor mounts, pull the lower pan and pickup tube, and use a floor jack to raise the engine up as far as it will go there is enough room to pull the pan completely out with like .5mm to spare. OP if you do decide to do this don't miss the two rear upper pan bolts hidden inside the trans. bell housing.

Also, you may need to prime the oil pump through one of the ports on the filter housing after you get everything back together.

So what Ken was saying is just to use no paper gasket whatsoever and just use rtv?

Yes! Like Ken said, pick yourself up some Right Stuff, get shit CLEAN, and be leak free for a long time.

Edit: I forgot to mention that you'll also need to pull the dipstick tube before the upper pan can come out.

[Dj Buttchug]

Also, you may need to prime the oil pump through one of the ports on the filter housing after you get everything back together.

^ this i forgot to mention as well. prime the oil pump with the timing case apart. Use engine assembly lube and squirt it directly into the oil pump filling the spaces between the teeth inside the pump. Dont forget to do this or else... no oil pressure on start up and then you have prime through the filter housing port which isnt as easy imo

[PeabnutBubber]

Excellent. I'm going to jump back in tomorrow morning and see what happens. I'll try to take pictures if I can get access to a camera.

I'm going to have to totally remove the upper oil pan somehow in order to clean it up and pull the paper gasket off and then put it back off. I have an engine hoist here ready to go so I may just end up using that to lift out the engine. I'll see what I come across.

[io_RobbieRodgers]

About the alternator issue, there's one last bolt that holds the bracket to the engine that you can't see. It's through the pivot joint, the one with the plastic sleeves inside. You have to pull or tap one of the sleeves out to get to it. Took me a bit to figure out.

Also, there's a bolt that holds the case to the block that's hard to see. It's right next to where the oil filter housing locates. I was scratching my head at this one for a long time too, thought I had all the bolts out but the case still wouldn't come off.

[PeabnutBubber]

Update time:

Ok, my 3 months of learning/laziness have finally paid off. I managed to pull out everything and dropped the lower pan. I removed the busted timing case finally. I had to unbolt the steering rack for a little extra room but now the whole thing is finally out! This is kind of a big personal triumph because before this I knew next to nothing about fixing a car. (You'll be able to tell in the picture.)

Now... I just have to put in the new timing case and get everything back together, I've spent the last couple of days cleaning everything up and trying to polish off all of the gunk that's built up over 200,000 miles and some oil leaks. I've removed all the paper gaskets. (Removing baked on gasket from the upper oil pan to the block without raising the engine or lowering the subframe took a lot of patience a good razor blade.) It's almost ready to come back together. I stripped a bolt holding the oil pump into place so I have to get a new one. (I still managed to get it out) I'll probably go get one today. Then I'll prime it like buttchugz said. I got some "right stuff" waiting as well.
Is engine assembly lube a special lube or could I just use regular oil?

I'll have pictures up as soon as I can get them from my gf's camera

[PeabnutBubber]

OP if you do decide to do this don't miss the two rear upper pan bolts hidden inside the trans. bell housing.

I was confused about why it wasn't coming off... then I remembered your post. :p

[twistednut]

Now let's see a picture of the #4 main bearing and see if your engine is even worth putting all that effort into.