Why will the m42 not stop ticking?!

[roguetoaster]

Well, just go for it, they aren't too expensive. Sixteen VW lifters run about $150 here, closer to $200 there with taxes I would imagine. It's a good excuse to inspect the cam bearings and cams themselves.

[duleymane///iS]

No when the car is warmed up it is still there, and interesting on the other ideas, I really wanna just nut up and do VW lifters

[roguetoaster]

Once the car is warmed up you cannot reproduce the click no matter the throttle percentage/RPM? If it really does go away when the car is warm then it could be lifters, but I've not heard of them being a frequent issue.

[torell]

it can be even a cranck bearing, dying idler sprocket, chain slapping on rail or lifters. Do first what is easier to replace. Fierstly i would clean lifters (tear them to 2 pieces wash them fill with clean oil and set it back) Some say it's an m42 charm the thicking noise i think its poor maintenance of PO's

[duleymane///iS]

The chain tick will go away just like that? I know my cam gears are worn, but i would think I could see some sort of debris after a year of driving like this in the oil pan(BTW the crank and everything looked immaculate ;) ) once the car heats up no more click, I would like to give more details on click: At first i believed the click to be RPM related but its not. Its more throttle related if I coast in 4th at around 1300rpm and give the car throttle (over 50%) it will click, i can be doing the same speed but in 2nd at around 3300 RPM i give throttle... No Click.. maybe I am dumb, or crazy just after a year the noise has not gotten worse nor gone away

[roguetoaster]

Still sounds like classic chain tick from what I hear. If the tensioner is new, your chain is "stretched" (read as worn), you gears are worn or (one or more of) your guides are worn out/gone even if you found no debris.

[duleymane///iS]

http://youtu.be/7Wc3ToiXmwY

Okay it has been awhile and I have done some work on the car, pulled the oil pan to re do the gasket for inspection and the pan was extremely clean. There was no plastic, metal, any kinda shavings I was relieved. The video I posted is my car warming up yesterday it makes that ticking as you can hear then... stops and it will continue to stop until I get on it and from 3k-45k on the tacho it comes back. Let me know if any M42 mastermind knows this tick

[duleymane///iS]

cool i plan on doing this soon, i ordered all the parts from pelican parts for the mess under the intake, i am just waiting to order the cam gears, brakes are soon as well.. i started running 20w50 the engine clicks alot in the morning when i first fire it up after about 5 mins back to normal, i plan on dropping to a 10w40 in the winter as there is sub zero temps here and that 20w50 is gonna be THICK!

[bmwm42]

Easy to replace without removing front cover just use a rag to cover bolts from falling

[bmwman91]

You can see the pressure valve when you remove the oil filter housing, but you cannot remove it that way. You must remove the upper oil pan. Removal of the upper pan requires you to jack the motor up a good 3" or more to clear the subframe.

The cam gears can easily be replaced with hand tools. It is most easily accomplished by removing the upper timing case cover, which requires draining the coolant. Reinstalling the cover properly also takes a bit of thought. You might be able to get the gears out without pulling the upper timing cover, but I have never tried.

Do not run thin oil. It will cause more problems than it solves. I would say that 10W-40 is the thinnest that you should go, and 15W-50 or 20W-50 will give the most protection (as the owner's manual suggests).

[MattBimmer]

I too have this problem I am running super light Oil Weight as suggested by a guy who had an M42 and lasted a super long time. Mine stopped when I ran higher octan fuel. Imma by some seafoam annd heavier oil to see if it stops. If not I may need to replace this pressire valve

[duleymane///iS]

so I am fairly sure i found out why its clicking.... :( pulled the valve cover for paint and to check out the cams... the gears look like pikes peak.. so im going to need to change them now.. how hard is that? can it be accomplished with hand tools and a cam locker? depressed now...

[duleymane///iS]

Ok so i googled the subject of trying to take off the oil pan, didnt go very far for me, i think my best shot is throwing it up on the lift and just going in there and finding out by getting in the nitty gritty, is removing the subframe fairly easy or..... is it a pain in the rear?

[Massimo]

That was for oem m42 lifters, massimo.


And pretty much. basically starves the tensioner at idle. I had to jack up my motor in order to get the upper pan off. Ive read that you can get to the valve if you take off the oil filter housing. Not positive about this but if i find some time ive got an old motor ill experiment on.

Yeh something like that I bleive you may have to giggle it around a bit but from what I have read it can be done.

[MF DOOM]

That was for oem m42 lifters, massimo.


And pretty much. basically starves the tensioner at idle. I had to jack up my motor in order to get the upper pan off. Ive read that you can get to the valve if you take off the oil filter housing. Not positive about this but if i find some time ive got an old motor ill experiment on.