Rebuilt head after warping it new problems...

[thedguy]

I had zip tied mine as well - but a prior mechanic had the number of links off (8 instead of 7) between the sprockets. Adjustment slots were set at max to compensate. Took me a while to figure this out.. and in my reading over the years, I noted this same occurrence happened to at least two other people..

And yeah, the valve cover is a little nerve racking. Just take your time and use a small 1/4" socket wrench as you don't want to strip threads in the aluminum head. Get them seated + 1/8-1/4 turn. Use blue loctite. Better loose than stripped. Job is considerably less fun with COP in place.

Good luck.

Have to ask.. did you install a new water pump when you were doing the work?

I reused the waterpump, but I ordered a new gasket. Most of the bolts on the valve cover have been stripped. I spent 1 night just helicoiling most of them. I'm about ready to yank out the bolts for studs. I already got 2 of them replaced since I did cops.

I didn't know this about the chain. I'll have to double check it.

The lower hose from the radiator to the t-stat housing should not get warm. It is the cold/return line. The top hose that connects to the radiator by the expansion tank is the "hot" one.

It's ice cold though... I guess my e-fan was working that damn well.

Did you mix up the heater core hoses? Maybe you have the hot/cold lines mixed up and there is a check valve in the core or something. It could be that there is a bunch of air trapped in the heater core. The lower pipe at the firewall connects to the cylinder head and the upper one connects to the plastic pipe. They are easy to mix up.

I didn't disconnect the one at the plastic pipe, so I don't think that is wrong. I did start getting heat from it though it took a bit. My dumbass was trying to bleed it without the heater on at first.

Once I realized this error though I tried rebleeding it and it stayed hot.

Can you tell if the lifter noise is coming from one lifter, or is it all of them? Is your chain tensioner piston properly expanded and functioning / did you replace it?

New tensioner, I expanded it with the front cover off and verified the chain was tight.

It sounds like it might be just a couple of lifters. not 100% sure to be honest.

[thedguy]

So I found the time to look at things.

I got overwhelmed but it was as simple as just checking the cam timing. The gears are lined up perfectly and my number of links are fine. But the flats on the back of the cams were not where they should be. After fixing the timing the power came back and the noises INSTANTLY went away.

I must be the victim of chain stretch (it does have enough miles on it). My timing on both cames was at least 3 degrees retarded. When I took it for a quick spin it had NO power. Not even able to do 65 in 3rd gear at WOT. Right now my intake cam is on full advance to get the cams in correct timing.

I still have an over heating issue. Even after the motor is well hot, the coolant near the temp sensor and the output side of the radiator is freezing cold. I don't mean "relatively" I mean flat out COLD as the night air.

I guess I either have a clog somewhere.
Thanks for all the help.

[Dj Buttchug]

you need to re bleed the coolant system?

[roguetoaster]

Silly I know, but have you made sure the thermostat is in the right way round?

[thedguy]

I haven't pulled the thermostat housing back out again.

I should have been smarter and tested the damn thermostat. I replaced it but it's one I've had on a shelf for a couple of years. I'm wondering if my whole problem started because of a failing thermostat...

Either way I have to drain the cooling system so I'm going to pull the radiator and check for flow.

[thedguy]

Updates for those interested...

My dumbass put the thermostat in reverse. I also did something I should have done to start which was TEST it in some hot water.

Good news is the engine no longer overheats, but it gets pretty damn hot. The other problem I'm having now is that the heater will not warm up once the thermostat opens up. whenever I bleed the cooling system I always have it park on a steep driveway with the radiator cap/bleed high and the engine running.

Only thing I can think of is maybe I'm having some issue with the Recall/bypass I keep hearing about, though I honestly don't know if I have it. I've also heard about some kind of solenoid that is in the drivers side kick panel?

[roguetoaster]

Glad you got that sorted. The other thing I should have added is to be sure the bypass line which is molded into the thermostat body is not blocked (generally by sealant added).

I have never had any issues bleeding the system on level ground, so not sure there. I should add that you might try squeezing the radiator hoses once the car is up to temp to sort of milk the system and purge air.

The recall was done on the heater core hoses and added a check valve or something similar which may be jammed, but an air pocket in the system could cause the valve to check flow to the core.

[thedguy]

Well I clamped the bypass/jumper line and kept heat into the heater with the thermostat open.

I still have some kind of overheating issue. My fan temp sensor must be toast so I have to jump the efan manually (I have a volvo efan). The motor takes its sweet time getting warm but once it does it refuses to cool back down. An additional note, the heater just doesn't seem capable of putting out the heat it used to.

I did notice that the hose that goes to the lower part of the reservoir stays cold as all hell no matter what... I'm honestly not sure if that should be hot or not though.

Ugh, I'm ready to order a bunch of new hoses and rip the intake manifold back off.

[roguetoaster]

You probably have a bad sensor as you assumed, and either a fair amount of air in the system or a blocked passage. I assume you are losing no coolant? I would still look to the cut out bypass on the mating surface of the thermostat cover for a blockage.

As for the heater, I am not sure what clamping the bypass will do, I would guess that this is causing the limited coolant flow into the core, or there is more air in the system somewhere. Best bet is to replace the hoses with straight throughs (a little more than $40 IIRC).

You can also do a half assed flush of the system to remove debris by removing the block drain under the exhaust manifold towards the back of the block and flushing with a hose (but only if your water is decent, otherwise it's just adding deposits to the system). It's a 19mm plug IIRC, and may be blocked by years of accumulated crap, if so just take a screwdriver and punch out the blockage. This may clear smaller blockages.

[thedguy]

I'll give that a shot. Thanks

[thedguy]

I only had a little bit of time to F with the car this weekend but I did notice something...
the heater core plumbing doesn't get particularly hot. I took out the diverter valve (TSB for overpressure) and that was when I noticed it.

I still have 1 excessive T in the system due to that valve. I'm ordering new hoses, since their due anyway, and putting new ones on.

[thedguy]

Well finally got it solved. I some how cracked the plastic impeller on the water pump
when I re-installed it.
I replaced all my hoses and the issue still popped up so I did the water pump today pumping water into every orifice in every direction I could to find a blockage.

I'll post pictures later of just how bad it looked. I'm guessing this was the factory pump with some 250k on it. At least it's easy to swap out!