Originally posted by hachirokuae
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M42 Euro model water leak
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Water pump uses an O-ring.
The crank sprocket just pulls off. It slides onto the crank nose and is rotated by a woodruff key in a slot. It can get a little stuck on there in which case you can finger-tighten the old crank bolt in there and use a gear puller on it. I'd replace the woodruff key in that case.
Also, why does it look like the timing case is shattered behind that crank sprocket? You certainly would not be the first person to have that happen, but it seems unlikely if you have driven the car for 2 years!
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This is a photo I found on the Web, not from my car. It's from this site http://www.esatclear.ie/~bpurcell/318istimingchain.html
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I got a question about the lower timing case. Does it require to remove oil pan to get it off, are there bolts from underneath? Also I removed the 6 bolts holding the oil filter housing but cant get it off either, and I dont want too use to much force and break something. Basically I'm trying to get to the profile gasket, so I'm removing things one by one, because I cant get a close look with the engine inside the car.
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Oil filter housing is only 6 bolts. However, there is the big round outlet with the rubber O-ring that inserts 15mm deep into the timing case. Give it a couple of light taps with a rubber hammer to break the old paper gasket loose and then remove it by pulling straight out and rotating it about the round oil outlet. The round thing I mean is what part 5 goes onto.
There are some bolts holding the upper oil pan to the timing case and you have to remove the lower oil pan to get at them. So yes, you need to unbolt the upper oil pan to remove the timing case. If you mean the lower timing case COVER, then no, you do not need to remove the oil pan because it only bolts onto the timing case from the front. You also would not need to remove the oil filter housing to get the lower cover off.
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