Water pump. exhausted all options

[AlexKing]

I'm about to give up guys.

my waterpump died in my m42 and i have tried just about everything to get it out and still not even a sign of movement. ive smashed it for hours, used the threaded holes, they broke off, tried twisting it, tried driving till it was hot then trying the above, even wrapped thick wire around the shaft and then round a pole and reversed. the wire snapped.

so whats my last ditch effort? i was thing about grinding and drilling parts off until it was only the housing stuck but i really don't want too.

any suggestions. please

[bmwm42]

Big screw driver or crow bar

[dsm2002]

try a penetrating oil or WD40, and heat and hit with a 1-2kg hammer - better for shocking it off. When I say hit, use a good firm hit not an all out wack. Some people have ground/dremelled down the outer casing of the water pump to weaken it to come apart. If you get part of the pump remaining inside, stuff a rag in it and use a small hammer and chisel.

You could try to make up a tool like this:

[AlexKing]

Big screw driver or crow bar

have tried with 2 claw hammers levering off the block. nope

try a penetrating oil or WD40, and heat and hit with a 1-2kg hammer - better for shocking it off. When I say hit, use a good firm hit not an all out wack. Some people have ground/dremelled down the outer casing of the water pump to weaken it to come apart. If you get part of the pump remaining inside, stuff a rag in it and use a small hammer and chisel.

You could try to make up a tool like this:

tried shocking it out. dont have access to that sort of tool either, or the money to make one

[Gerta]

Alex, I had a similar issue caused by rust/scale in basically welding the collar to the housing bore. To tell you the truth, I unbolted the cover and punched it out from the other side. I did it this way because I took the head off ... not so simple if you are just replacing the pump. Maybe try the chisel route DSM suggested?

[island e30]

I just replaced mine a few months ago but I took out the radiator for more room. but bmwm42 is right, you need leverage on it so go in with a big ass crow bar.

[15Michaeljoseph]

even wrapped thick wire around the shaft and then round a pole and reversed. the wire snapped.

:0

doorknob and string tooth pulling e30 style.




sent from 1987 via e30

[TobyB]

Rocking back and forth got mine out- 5lb dead- blow hammer, and whacked on one
side, then the other, then up, then down....

and yeah, removing the rad gave extra room for a bigger swing!

I was pretty sure I was going to break the cover- but I didn't....

t

[AlexKing]

thanks for the replies guys. turns out i needed a bigger hammer. dad brought a 3kg hammer and proceeded to smack the pulley mount till the thing started to move and then we both grabbed a crowbar each and pulled the sucker out.

[Gerta]

Congrats Alex!! Awesome to get that bad boy outta there.

[AlexKing]

alright hopefully your all still watching this thread.

after replacing the waterpump and thermostat, the car is still overheating. and when i say overheating i mean that the needle gets all the way over within 5-10mins of driving. i had the radiator checked for blockages and it came back as 10% blocked, so no where near enough to cause whats happening. there is no heat going through the radiator and so the only thing i can think of is little to no flow. i took the middle of the thermostat out and that didn't make a change. unless my waterpump is faulty i don't know what it is. someone please help.

[roguetoaster]

Either you didn't bleed the system properly, or there is a blockage, or you have a coolant leak somewhere.

The first option is much more likely than the others. I suggest bleeding the system again.

Did you use RTV when installing the thermostat housing?

[dsm2002]

Fully bleed the cooling system. Some people suggest having the front of the car raised on ramps or uphill when doing this. Some suggest a squeeze of the radiator hoses to pulse any air through the system. Usually this is not needed.

There is a small bypass groove in the thermostat housing aids filling with coolant. It should be kept clear of sealer if you used it. If the bypass is blocked, you will need warm up the engine for the thermostat to open. Fill the coolant system and let it drain in, fill, drain, etc. Once done, open the bleed screw and start the car. When bleeding make sure the expansion tank does not run dry. Let the motor warm up a little and rev it to about 3000rpm to bleed the remaining air if any.