M42 running VERY loud (video), low oil pressure light is on

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by e304me
    Well if it was pumping up the oil filter housing that means it should be primed. did you try cranking it after you put the filter housing cap back on?
    No, could that be my problem? I had the cap off and filter out the whole time.

    Leave a comment:


  • kwill22
    replied
    That's what you would put into the pump gears. That's why I said it would probably be easier to replace the pump because you'd have to take the timing case off to get to the pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • e304me
    replied
    Well if it was pumping up the oil filter housing that means it should be primed. did you try cranking it after you put the filter housing cap back on?

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by LJ851
    Is this your first time ?
    Yes . I'm Just wondering if it's thin enough to put down the oil filter housing or if I have to take the housing off then somehow force it into the pump.

    Leave a comment:


  • LJ851
    replied
    Originally posted by Vivek
    So do I prime the pump with that stuff? Where exactly do I put it in?


    Is this your first time ?

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    So do I prime the pump with that stuff? Where exactly do I put it in?

    Leave a comment:


  • kwill22
    replied
    Make sure you keep the top end and chain lubed

    Sorry about the size. For reference this is what I've used in hydro pumps to pack the gears.

    Last edited by kwill22; 05-27-2014, 03:21 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by e304me
    Slowly rise and overflow where?
    Out of the oil filter housing.
    Originally posted by kwill22
    Bubbles mean it's moving air mixed with oil so it was trying to prime. (Where the grease would come in) that's a good sign because at least you narrow it down to the pump gears or just bit enough viscosity to prime.

    The only thing that would affect the pumping is if it wasn't sealed at the pickup tube. Anything that's loose after the pump wouldn't affect it priming. It'd just pump oil out of all the places that are loose.

    And as said above where was it rising and overflowing from?

    Other than trying it again. I'f you don't plan on sending the new pump back I'd say just install it because if you try priming again and you get bubbles you need grease to limit the air getting in. BUT at that point you'd already have just about everything off to replace the pump so I'll leave that up to you. If it were me I'd just replace it IF you can't get it to prime, but bubbles is a sign of progress.

    random question: what diameter hose are you running from their intake boot to the ICV? I need a smaller I.D. hose and was just wondering what was working for you.
    Oh damn, thanks for the good news. I'll try priming it again either today or tomorrow. There shouldn't be any leaks around the pump that it could pump oil from.

    I believe my hose is 15/16" but I'd have to look again. If bubbling is progress I'll try it again. Crank while pouring for a while and maybe it'll eventually work.

    Leave a comment:


  • kwill22
    replied
    Bubbles mean it's moving air mixed with oil so it was trying to prime. (Where the grease would come in) that's a good sign because at least you narrow it down to the pump gears or just bit enough viscosity to prime.

    The only thing that would affect the pumping is if it wasn't sealed at the pickup tube. Anything that's loose after the pump wouldn't affect it priming. It'd just pump oil out of all the places that are loose.

    And as said above where was it rising and overflowing from?

    Other than trying it again. I'f you don't plan on sending the new pump back I'd say just install it because if you try priming again and you get bubbles you need grease to limit the air getting in. BUT at that point you'd already have just about everything off to replace the pump so I'll leave that up to you. If it were me I'd just replace it IF you can't get it to prime, but bubbles is a sign of progress.

    random question: what diameter hose are you running from their intake boot to the ICV? I need a smaller I.D. hose and was just wondering what was working for you.

    Leave a comment:


  • e304me
    replied
    Slowly rise and overflow where?

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    Well update time after 10 days off. I went down to bimmerfest then had finals.

    Anyways, I pulled the filter housing, nothing wrong behind it other than the fact that the gasket may have been the wrong orientation. Replaced the gasket with a new one and put it on the way I felt was correct (no pics, I forgot). Then tried to prime with 80w-90 gear oil. Process was as follows:
    Pour oil in filter housing (middle and around the outside of the inner post)
    Let it drain a bit
    Crank with starter while pouring oil (my mom helped)
    Pour more oil
    Crank more
    (repeat for a couple min)

    Started it up and let it run for 10ish seconds while pouring more oil in. The oil got bubbly and started to slowly rise and overflow. Oil pressure light stayed on and the timing chain still rattled like a motherfucker, so basically it didn't do jack shit.

    Couple points that may or may not have affected things:
    The dipstick and tube were out, I didn't realize until after
    The two bolts in the middle of my oil filter housing snapped. The first one when I first put it on with a shitty torque wrench, the second one just now. It was probably weakened because the second it tightened down it just popped. It still has 4 of the 6 bolts in place. I tried drilling out the previously snapped one but my left handed bit wouldn't catch.


    Time to say fuck it and get a new motor, or prime it in a different way? I have the parts to replace the pump but I doubt it'll work.

    Leave a comment:


  • Vivek
    replied
    Originally posted by kwill22
    I suggested it earlier. I don't think you'd need that much to get to the pickup. I don't know how you'd measure that without taking the pan off. Once the pickup is covered pour some down the filter housing to the pump and try to crank it quickly. If not the oil would probably just flow down the pickup and displace into the oil pan
    Okay I'll try that. I'm very busy until bimmerfest but also very anxious to get this running. A bit more motivation is that my new vanity plates are ready for pickup at the DMV but I can't get em til its smogged.

    Leave a comment:


  • bmwman91
    replied
    The hole at the bottom of the pickup should be in oil if there is ~1.5Qt in the pan. 5Qt gets the level up to just over the big flat area under the crank. To fill it up to the center line of the crank (which would cover half of the pump) would definitely take a couple of gallons of oil at least. That's what I figure based on having been in there and replaced a few oil pumps anyway.

    Leave a comment:


  • kwill22
    replied
    I suggested it earlier. I don't think you'd need that much to get to the pickup. I don't know how you'd measure that without taking the pan off. Once the pickup is covered pour some down the filter housing to the pump and try to crank it quickly. If not the oil would probably just flow down the pickup and displace into the oil pan

    Leave a comment:


  • bmwman91
    replied
    I bet you would need like 10-15 quarts. The crank would be mostly submerged (oil pump is driven directly by the crank, meaning it is co-axial with it), and you would probably have issues with air not moving too freely under the pistons, as well as serious oil splash under the pistons that might get past the scraper rings. Not recommended both because it might not be super good for the engine, and it is big waste of $100 worth of oil.

    Leave a comment:

Working...