My new 318is code 1244 ?

[14''BBS]

Ive searched meticulously but I feel my problem is a bit unique. Ive done a stomp test and the only code I get is 1244 which is apprantly CPS, however it starts up just fine and revs to redline just fine and does its cold start thing (lumpy idle) then comes back to what looks like 750-800rpm. However, It sounds like a vacuum cleaner to be honest under the hood and you can hear that the idle isn't steady it probably revs between that 750 and 800 mark(does it have a secondary air injection system?) . It drives fine and goes to red line quite smoothly. I don't see any smoke out the exhaust. Im going to clean the ICV and change the fuel filter that seems like a good start. any suggestions? also while I hear a sort of high pitch whistle that is relative to my accelerator inputs (doubt its the diff) it sounds like its coming from under the dash area. if I turn up the music its like its not there however its abit annoying. I DID notice a bit of a tear in the powersteering pump belt. would that cause any issues ive listed?

[14''BBS]

58 views 0 replies..........:hitler:

[roguetoaster]

No, assuming you have an M42 in an E30, there is no air injection that I know of (but there are ports on the exhaust manifold). Yes, a belt can make odd sounds, easily eliminated by removing the belt and trying of course.

A high pitched whistle for me was vacuum leak between the intake manifold and the cylinder head, but could also be at the throttle or between the two parts of the intake manifold. Vacuum leaks often allow the car to run fine at higher RPM, but cause a bobble coming back down to idle. Did you do work in the intake area recently?

Complaining will get you everywhere on r3v.

[Vivek]

PS belt has nothing to do with this. Whistle may be a large vac leak. Clean our your icv and report back but in my experience that'll make the idle jump consistently between 1 and 2.5k. You can try a smoke test for a vac leak or if that's hard to access based on the above reply you could probably just blow some smoke around the intake area and see if it's obviously being sucked in anywhere. If your mess under the intake hasn't been done yet then you'll definitely have to pull the manifold because you probably have a whole bunch of vac leaks. It's a fairly straightforward process that only takes $20-30 in parts and a few hours. There's a few good threads on here (mine and Simons)

[14''BBS]

lol I guess complaining does work. I actually suspected vacuum leaks so I went ahead and pulled my upper manifold off and did a heater plate delete/by-pass. I noticed aside from the ICV hoses the "U piece" had hoses were almost all rotted and looked like they've been ghetto rigged with silicone. cleaned the ICV im going to order the TB and manifold gasket then see how she runs.

SO one more question. Is the CPS good since it starts up and drives fine? why do I have the good? due to vacuum leak?

[roguetoaster]

The CPS (which one, cam or crank) may be good, and I would suspect they are both fine if it runs well.

It would also be a good idea to get a new lower manifold gasket and injector o-rings. Don't put RTV on the manifold gaskets as they will be a mess to remove in future.

[14''BBS]

thanks dude helps a lot. I did order a lower gasket just in case and the injector area actually looks very dry. The car has 330k (body is mint no rust, especially for a Canadian car) and was apparently mechanic kept so I feel a lot of the quirks have come up and gone already.

[roguetoaster]

Even so, you might as well do the injector seals while you are there. It will add all of 15 minutes (tops) and $3 to the project.

I assume you mean 330,000km? If so I would expect another 100,000km of farily trouble free service from the engine if you keep up the maintenance. Mine is just starting to feel worn out at something north of 250,000mi of hard use.

[14''BBS]

ok cool im going to complete my parts list order tomorrow (im doing suspension aswell) I was just thinking,since I stomp coded 1244 which is camshaft position sensor. maybe I should go ahead and order one just in case? they're 2 camshafts so if one is bad it will run fine but it can run better right?

This is my second car, my first was a turbo jetta with 300whp(built not bought ^_^) so im not sure how to guage the power of this car lol.

I know its suppose to be slow but maybe it can do better? . so far, since purchase ive changed oil
-mess under the intake/deletes
-going to do both intake mani gaskets
-going to do inj. O-rings,
-refresh the cooling system,
-changed the PS belt,
- going to do spark plugs,
-cleaned the K&N Filter, ICV, Throttle Body.
-going to do fuel filter
ive filled the tank (91 octane) and put storage stabilizer, ran it through the system.
the diff fluid refresh requires some sort of pump right??

She should run beautifully when I put her on the road in 4 months no??Are these cars Ok to sit?

appreciate the feedback.

[roguetoaster]

There is one cam sensor, its on the timing case, and reads off of the exhaust cam gear.

I also came from a VW, albeit a mildly built A2 16v GTI, so I just went to RWD version of the same car.

The M42 is slow, but as has been said 1000000 times before it's a momentum car/economy car. Give it time, rev the heck out of it and it ought to grow on you, just don't go drive it, think it needs more power and swap an M50 turbo in right away. Frankly, I resisted the urge to modify for over two years, did the suspension, waited another six months, recently ordered a chip and still enjoy it immensely.

Diff change does not require a pump if you use a tube with clever routing to a high point and funnel, but a pump wastes less fluid. Storage should be fine, the Chump car with an M42 sits for months between events and starts right up. Clearly, you need to protect the tires from going all non-round.

[14''BBS]

yeah so I went ahead and ordered a cam sensor just incase. yeah I know its not for straghtline speed that's not why I got it ^_^' I have plans on another car for my "gear banger" I like the powerband its a fun little car and in the wet is even more fun.

I don't plan on doing anything other then suspension and a muffler. it seems to have straightpiping to a stock muffler (the cat area has something that looks like a cat over it to trick the traffic cops lol) its 20+ years old so in Canada we don't need an Etest on "classics"

I get what your saying about the tube/funnel technique. is the diff fluid worth a flush?

[roguetoaster]

You are right on in having another car to compliment the 318. For me it's a Hartge E28, which is essentially a muscle car. Hope you have something similarly complimentary in mind.

You might as well put new fluid in the diff, not like it's expensive.

[stanz]

I have the same code. Car runs great though. I recently discovered a leak in my valve cover due to a stripped bolt. I'll fix that hole, replace the gasket, and let you know if that helps. Not sure why a vacuum issue would throw that code but we'll see. Anybody else have this problem?

[14''BBS]

im going for a skyline r33 GTS-T as my second car. In Canada they is plenty RHD cars. unfortunately im in the process of trying to decide how im going to get the 5mm allen key bolt that holds the camshaft sensor on. it was all rotted/rusted and the area has dry coolant looking stuff. I have a feeling when the prof gasket went the first or second time it wasn't dealt with for a while so it ate through the bolt. also seems like there was some gasket sealer around the sensor aswell im thinking WD-40 and a pair of vice grips?? also I noticed the lower manifold bolts are a little rusty I don't want to strip em might leave it.

[roguetoaster]

Yes, penetrating fluid and vise grips will get that allen head bolt off. There may have been sealer around it as they did not have the proper o-ring.

I wouldn't worry about the lower manifold nuts after you hit them with penetrating fluid. If they are seized your efforts to remove them will probably just remove the stud from the cylinder head, which you can replace.