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    Here's a video...

    http://youtu.be/g2HMcGPxHuU


    ... let me know what you guys think. I've exhausted my knowledge on what to look at/for.

    There's two areas of concern for me:

    1. The squeak. You can hear it right as throttle is applied. Worse from the gas peddle as it's a bit smoother than pulling the throttle cable.

    2. The really rough running/idle and wanting to croak. It runs perfectly when you first start it beyond the squeal when you give it throttle and first start up.

    I've replaced the MAF, the boot, all of the mess under the intake, new HG, new plugs, new wires, new water pump, new intake gaskets, ICV's good, new belts all around (and tightened them appropriately), new timing chain tensioner, sprockets look great (as in nearly new), chain was perfect. I'm at a loss.

    Also, made sure the obnoxious cat/no cat wire was unplugged.

    Any ideas at all, please share 'em. I'm pretty tired of getting 9mpg in my '95 F150 going to to and from work ;)

    Thanks in advance for your time.
    Need a part? PM me.

    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

    #2
    Stuttering and lopey idle/attempted dying was resolved.Swapped ICV's and good to go.

    Still haven't resolved the chirp or some of the odd hesitation.
    Need a part? PM me.

    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

    Comment


      #3
      Surely that chirp is a belt/pulley squeak?

      What's your idle range at the moment? Sure the TB plates are closed with 0 throttle?

      Comment


        #4
        The random rough idle as it got warm was resolved, thankfully.

        I know, man! That chirp has to be pulley/belt squeak. I've driven it around the neighborhood and it seems to be slowly going away. This car sat for nearly 4 years with a blown HG. I'm still getting a little milky oil out of the innards!

        It's running like a champ at this point though! Just need to get the HVAC motor/blower working and I'll be set.

        Thanks for the response, Roguetoaster. Appreciate it.
        Need a part? PM me.

        Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
          The random rough idle as it got warm was resolved, thankfully.

          I know, man! That chirp has to be pulley/belt squeak. I've driven it around the neighborhood and it seems to be slowly going away. This car sat for nearly 4 years with a blown HG. I'm still getting a little milky oil out of the innards!

          It's running like a champ at this point though! Just need to get the HVAC motor/blower working and I'll be set.

          Thanks for the response, Roguetoaster. Appreciate it.
          Happy to. Only asked about idle range as it seems odd that an ICV swap did the trick. In any case I am glad you fixed it.

          Have you ever replaced you alternator bushings? They might be the source of the squeak due to pulley misalignment.

          Comment


            #6
            It turns out the ICV wasn't the cause. I'll be replacing every last damn hose to see if maybe it's a vac. leak.

            Idle range is perfect when it decides to run decent. It left me stranded on the way to the gas station ~1 mile away from home. Got it home but it didn't want to actually drive. Really weird.


            I'd put the idle range at 750 +/- 50 rpm on the tach.
            Need a part? PM me.

            Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
              It turns out the ICV wasn't the cause. I'll be replacing every last damn hose to see if maybe it's a vac. leak.

              Idle range is perfect when it decides to run decent. It left me stranded on the way to the gas station ~1 mile away from home. Got it home but it didn't want to actually drive. Really weird.


              I'd put the idle range at 750 +/- 50 rpm on the tach.
              Well, vac leaks (or seemingly so) that develop long after work was done are right around 80% hose cracks, 18% sensor failure (the seemingly so part), and 2% fasteners backing off.*

              *made up numbers, but factually near correct

              Comment


                #8
                I'm really having a hard time justifying a vacuum leak on the premise that 1. most hoses are 100% new and I've literally gone over them 30 times and, 2. it's not that it just idles rough, it's nearly impossible to keep it running unless I floor the throttle. It's literally trying to give up. Meh! I hate M42's so much sometimes.
                Need a part? PM me.

                Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
                  I'm really having a hard time justifying a vacuum leak on the premise that 1. most hoses are 100% new and I've literally gone over them 30 times and, 2. it's not that it just idles rough, it's nearly impossible to keep it running unless I floor the throttle. It's literally trying to give up. Meh! I hate M42's so much sometimes.
                  Well, that sounds like a TPS or AFM issue, however, I had an O2 sensor cause a poor idle that would dip after a stop.

                  It's also worth considering that your booster check valve might be leaking.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    That's the little hose/fitting that comes off the booster, yeah?

                    Would that make it run like crap after it got to 1/4 warm? If so, then yes. Yes, mine is leaking... heh. I was thinking of putting some silicone on the fitting area since it's loose. Good or bad idea you reckon?
                    Need a part? PM me.

                    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
                      That's the little hose/fitting that comes off the booster, yeah?

                      Would that make it run like crap after it got to 1/4 warm? If so, then yes. Yes, mine is leaking... heh. I was thinking of putting some silicone on the fitting area since it's loose. Good or bad idea you reckon?
                      Yep, that one, but it'd cause a constant vacuum leak. I'd just replace it ($12 for the part), however, you will need new hose/clamps as brake booster hose is rarely reusable after 5+ years. Might be worth getting a new booster grommet at the same time too.

                      Is your check engine light working? If so I'd do a stomp test just for kicks.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I think I really need to replace that on my car, I get the dip too when i apply the brakes

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Dip in brakes as in the pedal travels further than it should? Thatd be a brake master/fluid issue. Bad/leaking booster would typically create a hard/harder pedal. As in more effort to brake

                          Sounds like you've got a sensor/electrical issue. Like the DME isn't getting the correct values for fuel via air flow. Could be coils, or wires cracked, false readings from the coolant temp sensor. I don't think the o2 would cause that issue. It can run a little crappy with bad o2 but I've never heard of one causing your problems where it doesn't wanna run at all.

                          Check your readings from the AFM, coolant temp, ICV, TPS
                          Last edited by kwill22; 10-24-2014, 05:15 PM.
                          DENY IGNORANCE!
                          Schwarz 325-totaled
                          brilliantrot 318i-daily

                          Originally posted by mkcman17
                          don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Coils might be shot. I really just don't want to continue to throw money at this thing and pray I find the issue ;)

                            I'll get readings on the MAF, ICV and TPS today.


                            Also, it should be noted that the damn thing starts like a dream (beyond the little chirp from the pulley). It idles and runs great. However, within 10 minutes it's nearly impossible to keep running.
                            Need a part? PM me.

                            Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Cleaned the AFM. Runs like a rich bitch. By that I mean to say, it runs, doesn't stutter or try to die, throttle on has no more hesitations and idle is rock solid. It stuttered a bit as it warmed up the first go around after the AFM cleaning. Really runs great now (again, beyond the chirp which is irritating as fuck) but I'm still hesitant to drive it around. I'm letting it cool down a tad and I'll restart it again and see how she does. She's pretty consistent with running GREAT on one session and then throwing me another problem on the next go around.

                              Coolant sensor was replaced on the head gasket job.

                              Here's hoping?
                              Need a part? PM me.

                              Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                              Comment

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