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    #16
    Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
    Cleaned the AFM. Runs like a rich bitch. By that I mean to say, it runs, doesn't stutter or try to die, throttle on has no more hesitations and idle is rock solid. It stuttered a bit as it warmed up the first go around after the AFM cleaning. Really runs great now (again, beyond the chirp which is irritating as fuck) but I'm still hesitant to drive it around. I'm letting it cool down a tad and I'll restart it again and see how she does. She's pretty consistent with running GREAT on one session and then throwing me another problem on the next go around.

    Coolant sensor was replaced on the head gasket job.

    Here's hoping?
    Well, if it's only when warm it is probably either the coolant sensor, or the O2 sensor.

    Did you replace both coolant sensors?

    Maybe check out your 3 relay pack at the top of the engine bay?

    Comment


      #17
      Second coolant sensor
      DENY IGNORANCE!
      Schwarz 325-totaled
      brilliantrot 318i-daily

      Originally posted by mkcman17
      don't think your hamster wheels are fast now. you will still have to give up when trying to pass that V6 odyssey to make your offramp.

      Comment


        #18
        I'll pick some up and go from there. Again, the car ran great all yesterday. Today? Barely made it out of the drive way.

        Are both coolant sensors the same? Real OEM has them off by 1 digit but Blunttech only has 1 of 'em.


        P.S.

        Anyone want a rough running, semi-clean rust free 4 door 318i? Selling it on the cheap!
        Last edited by ck_taft325is; 10-29-2014, 10:16 AM.
        Need a part? PM me.

        Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
          I'll pick some up and go from there. Again, the car ran great all yesterday. Today? Barely made it out of the drive way.

          Are both coolant sensors the same? Real OEM has them off by 1 digit but Blunttech only has 1 of 'em.


          P.S.

          Anyone want a rough running, semi-clean rust free 4 door 318i? Selling it on the cheap!
          Sorry to hear.

          The sensors are not the same, the brown one pin sensor 12621710512 is for the gauge cluster, the two pin blue one 0280130026 is for the DME, or maybe I'm mixing those up. Either way, I suggest that you check that they are plugged in correctly, and if so unplug the blue one and see if that changes the hot running condition.

          I'll take the 318 for $1000 shipped as I am confident this is a small fix. ;)

          Comment


            #20
            Ha, I might take you up this shortly here depending on if I can get this stupid thing running. Replacing the sensors and seeing if that does the trick. If not, I'm aiming to pick up a front end wrecked M50NV swapped 318i 4 door with 5 lug suspension and a myriad of other goodies for around $1,500 and possibly swapping everything over and rebuilding the front end and selling that "donor" car with this M42 and running gear. Pirating out the 5 lug swap to recoup costs. We'll see how it goes over the next few days.

            Stomp test results:

            1244.

            I guess I'll run through the wiring again and tear apart the intake manifold and make sure everything's buttoned up correctly. CPS seems odd but it would explain a few of the issues in regards to the bucking/stalling out randomly. Either that or the DME decided to bugger out.
            Last edited by ck_taft325is; 10-29-2014, 12:01 PM.
            Need a part? PM me.

            Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
              Ha, I might take you up this shortly here depending on if I can get this stupid thing running. Replacing the sensors and seeing if that does the trick. If not, I'm aiming to pick up a front end wrecked M50NV swapped 318i 4 door with 5 lug suspension and a myriad of other goodies for around $1,500 and possibly swapping everything over and rebuilding the front end and selling that "donor" car with this M42 and running gear. Pirating out the 5 lug swap to recoup costs. We'll see how it goes over the next few days.

              Stomp test results:

              1244.

              I guess I'll run through the wiring again and tear apart the intake manifold and make sure everything's buttoned up correctly. CPS seems odd but it would explain a few of the issues in regards to the bucking/stalling out randomly. Either that or the DME decided to bugger out.
              The components you listed as potential failures are under $300 new/used. Persevere, and remember, M42s like to torture you for a few short months and then run reliably for years.

              Comment


                #22
                True, but having to dick around throwing money at a $132 CPS that very likely might not be the culprit is exasperating. I'm wearing on my wife's patience ;)

                Suddenly driving my F150 to work just doesn't seem that bad. Even at 12mpg.
                Need a part? PM me.

                Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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                  #23
                  Update:

                  CamPS @ 2000 ohms setting: 991

                  CrankPS @ 2000 ohms setting: 514


                  Both of those readings are low, yeah? Should it be around 1240?
                  Last edited by ck_taft325is; 11-10-2014, 07:39 PM.
                  Need a part? PM me.

                  Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                  Comment


                    #24
                    TPS was fine at between 3.5-4ohms.

                    ICV was good at 9ohms.


                    I'm juggling two projects at the moment so this one has gotten the stand still. I'm going to run through the plug wires and finish putting the new CTS. Hopefully that solves the rough running at 2-3k rpm and the subsequent dying.
                    Need a part? PM me.

                    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by roguetoaster View Post
                      remember, M42s like to torture you for a few short months and then run reliably for years.
                      I really hope this is true. Been working on one problem for 3 months now.
                      sigpic

                      (clicky on piccy to get to thread)

                      Comment


                        #26
                        What all are you trying to trace down?
                        Need a part? PM me.

                        Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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                          #27
                          Alright, everything I've multimetered is good. I replaced the CTS because I had already ordered one. I'm kind of at a loss.

                          I'll buy a crankPS and maybe even a camPS.

                          Would anything mechanical cause these issues? I'd tear my hair out but I have too nice of a mane.
                          Need a part? PM me.

                          Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
                            What all are you trying to trace down?
                            Been trying to fix the throttle body coolant loop.
                            First was that the barb in the head leaked and was covered in rusty shit. Cleaned it.
                            Turns out that the rust was holding it together, so it cracked when I tightened up the hose. Tried to ghetto fix it and it didn't work. So last time I tapped a thread through where it is, and stuck a bolt in it. That seems to work, but capping the other end of the loop at the plastic flange pipe thing isn't working. Everything perfectly sized, still leaks past the cap.

                            So my next plan is to just cover the cap in RTV and hope that it fixes it.

                            And of course you can't get at it unless the entire intake is apart, and the manifold to throttle body studs keep stripping, and air leaks, etc etc etc.
                            sigpic

                            (clicky on piccy to get to thread)

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Replaced the temp sensor. Still not liking it much. The car actually had a check engine light come on. Stomp test showed the same result, 1244. CamPS or crankPS. Both tested out fine on pins 1-2 with a multimeter. Pins 2-3 or 1-3 didn't yield any result. Normal or ?
                              Need a part? PM me.

                              Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                              Comment


                                #30
                                To answer my own question, yes. That is normal on pins 2-3 and 1-3.


                                At a loss. Ran great today. Only had a moment of wanting to die then seemed fine. Also, doesn't seem to be running as rich.
                                Need a part? PM me.

                                Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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