M42 high idle after throttle body heater delete

[Stevoyayaya3]

This happenened to me once after I did my mess. It only did it for about 5 mins then I started the car over and it stopped lol. Just love these little problems lol

[and_e30]

A friend had an issue with a bad afm, installed a good one but no improvements until he pulled the battery and reset the computer. Maybe do this to clear the tps fault code?

Not getting a fault code anymore and I have heard mixed knowledge on the battery unplugging actually resetting the computer. I guess it's worth another shot.

[uturn]

A friend had an issue with a bad afm, installed a good one but no improvements until he pulled the battery and reset the computer. Maybe do this to clear the tps fault code?

[dude8383]

Check for continuity on each wire there. maybe you have a break someplace else?

[roguetoaster]

Yes, called it. I had the same issue on my car early last year, mine was slightly lower in the loom. Solder, splice or replace the pin connector as appropriate.

[and_e30]

I took the boot off the tps harness as someone mentioned in a previous post. Sure enough the ground wire was broken off. I spliced in a whole new connector and there was a huge difference. The car drives a lot better, much more responsive in the mid range. Also, the check engine light went off. These are all good things.

When I start the car up, it idles around 700 like it should. But after driving it around for 20 min or so the idles hover around 1k and don't drop. I probably put 50 miles on the car since the new connector and the issue still exists.

I notice when I drive it around and the idles are high at 1k, if I unplug the tps harness the idles drop back down to 700 and once I plug it back in the rpms maintain normal until I drive it again.

Do these symptoms sound common to any problems you guys have experienced?

[and_e30]

The engine will still run with it not working. Driving the car does nothing. You need to check it with an ohm meter or a continuity tester. Checking if the throttle plate opens/closes all the way tells you nothing about the tps.

Seriously, this isn't that hard.

tested the tps terminals at 1 and 3 to get 4k ohms and also the tps terminals at 1 and 2 and rotated the throttle from idle to full position and had a range of 1 - 4k ohms respectively. both these numbers match the bentley book.

tps seems to be working within spec.

[AndrewBird]

Isn't driving it around verifying it is working while on the car?

From what I can see there is zero adjustment, it is a dummy proof alignment on the pin by having a flat spot, so it can only align one way. I also took off the intake boot and verified that the throttle is opening and closing properly when the throttle is being moved.

The engine will still run with it not working. Driving the car does nothing. You need to check it with an ohm meter or a continuity tester. Checking if the throttle plate opens/closes all the way tells you nothing about the tps.

Seriously, this isn't that hard.

[uturn]

Confirm the throttle body studs are not stripped at the manifold? Or the nuts bottoming out? BMW used shorter studs before they did the recall with the heater plate.
Also, I did the fuel injector rebuild on mine and they all leaked by because I used aftermarket kits instead of ordering the orings from bmw. Do the smoke test or spray throttle body cleaner and see if the revs increase to rule out the vacuum leak theory. The three sensor wires were confusing for me but was lucky and got them right. Check to make sure you didn't mix the engine temp with the oil pressure one.

[and_e30]

You need to verify the TPS is working correctly ON THE CAR. There is a little bit of play and adjustment, not to mention something else could be keeping the throttle from closing all the way and/or opening all the way.

Isn't driving it around verifying it is working while on the car?

From what I can see there is zero adjustment, it is a dummy proof alignment on the pin by having a flat spot, so it can only align one way. I also took off the intake boot and verified that the throttle is opening and closing properly when the throttle is being moved.

[AndrewBird]

You need to verify the TPS is working correctly ON THE CAR. There is a little bit of play and adjustment, not to mention something else could be keeping the throttle from closing all the way and/or opening all the way.

[and_e30]

i picked up a throttle position sensor off an e36 318 ti at the junk yard, exact same part number. after installation stomp test still doesn't work and the car drives the same.

what else could cause the stomp test to fail? running out of ideas.

[slowklopdop]

Just to clarify about the the throttle body heater plate, that it does not need to be re installed and you can leave it out.

Your lines look correct from what i can see from the pictures you have provided.

[KVF]

If the tps has failed in any position or is improperly aligned, wouldn't the stomp test fail, because continuity will be broken each time you let off during the stomp count...

[roguetoaster]

The tps can be checked with an ohm meter. All it is is a multi-position switch. You will have continuity when at idle, at wot and anywhere in between. My guess is it isn't working at idle.

Quite possibly. But if it is working at WOT then your hand actuation of the throttle will allow the stomp test to work providing there are no issues with wiring. That said, pull the wiring boot off of the TPS and check that the wires have not fatigued/broken, as this seems to be a growing issue on M42s.