My 91 318is has been running fine since I bought it a year ago, no issues at start up (except the hot start issue that every noob has). On Saturday I jacked the front of the car up to try to install my z3 short shifter, but decided I didn't have enough time, so I let the car down. Didn't start the car until this morning (Monday), and it wouldn't start. Battery is fine, all lights show up, it cranks, but it won't start. It seems like it wants to start, but it just won't catch or something. There wasn't any issues before indicating something was going bad, so I don't know what to do. Here's a video of what it sounds like.
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M42 cranks but won't start
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those need to be changed. Are you sure the engine is getting fuel? I think your fuel pump might be crapped out conveniently when you started working on the car.
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Originally posted by lamboButtchug. The official poster child of r3v.
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Originally posted by Dj Buttchug View Postthose need to be changed. Are you sure the engine is getting fuel? I think your fuel pump might be crapped out conveniently when you started working on the car.
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If it's running rich, or running at all, you should not need to replace the fuel pump relay.
Is it only running poorly when warm? If so, it may be the oxygen sensor. Bad idle from start up? Probably vacuum leaks or ICV in need of cleaning.
Beyond that it could be any number of things, from the catalytic converter to the air flow meter. Be sure that the wire on the passenger side under the plastic cover (the one that covers the 3 relays) in unplugged. After that I'd check the position of the throttle at 0% input to make sure it's seated.
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Originally posted by roguetoaster View PostIf it's running rich, or running at all, you should not need to replace the fuel pump relay.
Is it only running poorly when warm? If so, it may be the oxygen sensor. Bad idle from start up? Probably vacuum leaks or ICV in need of cleaning.
Beyond that it could be any number of things, from the catalytic converter to the air flow meter. Be sure that the wire on the passenger side under the plastic cover (the one that covers the 3 relays) in unplugged. After that I'd check the position of the throttle at 0% input to make sure it's seated.
Thanks.
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Well, if it truly started out of the blue it should to be an ignition issue, either bad a bad coil (did you verify spark on all 4?) or an ECU issue. It could still be a coincidental vacuum leak, but this would probably not be an issue at operating speeds.
As to the catalytic converter being empty it won't impact engine operation, but will make the exhaust smell more of gasoline.
It may be worth checking the vibration dampener/crank wheel. Some time ago mine separated without failing completely (the trigger wheel rotated on the vibration dampener) and would still start and run for a very short time before stalling, but was 100% undriveable.
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Originally posted by roguetoaster View PostWell, if it truly started out of the blue it should to be an ignition issue, either bad a bad coil (did you verify spark on all 4?) or an ECU issue. It could still be a coincidental vacuum leak, but this would probably not be an issue at operating speeds.
As to the catalytic converter being empty it won't impact engine operation, but will make the exhaust smell more of gasoline.
It may be worth checking the vibration dampener/crank wheel. Some time ago mine separated without failing completely (the trigger wheel rotated on the vibration dampener) and would still start and run for a very short time before stalling, but was 100% undriveable.
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