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Seized water pump?! M42..

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    Seized water pump?! M42..

    I am completely unable to get this water pump out of my M42. I have tried prying, whacking, pulling, etc. I eventually broke the head off my hammer trying to pry the farking thing off.


    Does the pulley wheel need to come out or something crazy? I havent read anything about that online. I cant get this damn thing out!!


    #2
    Grab hold of the case with a pipe wrench and twist it back and forth. The corrosion is whats keeping it from coming out.
    Use blocks of wood against the timing case and pry under the pulley mount. Twist and pry, you may end up breaking the pump.

    Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk

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      #3
      I just dealt with this - apparently it's a common problem on M42 engines. I'm assuming you already tried the BMW-recommended method of backing it out using the 2 threaded holes in the water pump? That is by far the easiest method, but often the "ears" of the water pump are brittle and break.

      It took 3+ hours to pop mine loose, what eventually worked was penetrating fluid + a big pipe wrench w/ 3 foot breaker bar. Google "M42 water pump stuck" for more details.

      Good luck! You'll get it eventually, just keep at it. I had to turn it one way, and then the other numerous times before it loosened enough to come out. I've also heard of people building some type of jig attached to the pulley flange, effectively duplicating the factory method.
      1991 318is Brillantrot daily driver (slow restoration)

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        #4
        I havent heard of the BMW method.. What is that?

        Unfortunately, Its just the block on the stand. Im losing a lot of leverage with my engine mount rolling. If it was a car on wheels I may have a chance.

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          #5
          If you look at the water pump you'll notice 2 threaded holes, one at 12 o'clock and one at 6 o'clock. Their purpose is for you to thread 2 of the water pump bolts in, thereby backing the pump out. This should be done evenly, a little at a time, so that you don't break the little tabs where the 2 threads are, which can be rather thin and brittle. Sometimes they just break anyway and you have to use the other methods, but that's definitely the easiest way.
          1991 318is Brillantrot daily driver (slow restoration)

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            #6
            Originally posted by c0rbin9 View Post
            If you look at the water pump you'll notice 2 threaded holes, one at 12 o'clock and one at 6 o'clock. Their purpose is for you to thread 2 of the water pump bolts in, thereby backing the pump out. This should be done evenly, a little at a time, so that you don't break the little tabs where the 2 threads are, which can be rather thin and brittle. Sometimes they just break anyway and you have to use the other methods, but that's definitely the easiest way.
            Oh, yea, unfortunately those both popped a bit ago. That was the first thing I tried. Wish I tried it where I am now that ship has sunk.

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              #7
              Originally posted by oldmann View Post
              Grab hold of the case with a pipe wrench and twist it back and forth. The corrosion is whats keeping it from coming out.
              Use blocks of wood against the timing case and pry under the pulley mount. Twist and pry, you may end up breaking the pump.

              Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
              This will work if you are diligent. When you put the pipe wrench on don't forget to preload it before hitting it.

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                #8
                I had to resort to a 3lb dead blow hammer. Made a holy mess of the hammer, too.
                That might work better on your engine stand.

                Back and forth, up and down.

                I greased the shit out of it with nokorrode when it went back in, but I expect the
                next time will be equally brutal...
                now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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