Header broken studs

[iPee]

In the process of removing my exhaust I broke 1/4 studs that connect the header to the exhaust.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_4354

Part #2.

I was thinking of drilling the broken one out, and replacing with a bolt and nut instead. Do you guys have any suggestions on getting the broken stud out. It seems pretty stuck in there. I was hoping to not have to remove the header and just work from underneath the car.


Thanks
Ivan

[MrBurgundy]

You could PB blast it for a couple days, torch it and then use a vice grip to try and turn it out. That's probably the least invasive way to get it out. But, drilling it out and using a bolt and nut is definitely going to be the easiest and most time effective way.

[iPee]

Cool sounds good I'll PB blast it for now. It's been weeks since I've touched it just got back from HK, but IIRC the stud snapped right off where it meets the exhaust so I cant grip it with a vice.

From the pics it looks it's just pressed in right?

[MrBurgundy]

I see, if the back of the stud is flat, it should be pressed in, but I haven't worked on an m42's exhaust first hand. If it is pressed in, after a good few days of pb blasting, you can drill a small hole through, so it will collapse when you try and hit or press it out.

[ForcedFirebird]

How close did it break off? They punch our pretty easy with a hammer, no need to drill. Usually I pound a new one back in, but a nut/bolt has worked in a pinch.

[roguetoaster]

If the hammer doesn't work try an air chisel. The track car got all of the studs on the join replaced with bolts as we didn't want a stud to break or seize on track, seems to have worked just fine.

[ForcedFirebird]

If the hammer doesn't work try an air chisel. The track car got all of the studs on the join replaced with bolts as we didn't want a stud to break or seize on track, seems to have worked just fine.

Because RACECAR!

J/K Nut and bolt works just fine, just the shop OCD kicks in and am always afraid of the future repercussions of something coming out of my shop being viewed as an "improper repair". We tend to be OEM oriented.

[jrobie79]

Mine appeared to be pressed and then tack welded in, looks factory. I took a cut off wheel and cut off as much of the head as I could, then used a cold chisel to get the remaining meat out and punch the stud right out.

Replaced with stainless steel nut/washer/bolt combo, 100x better. I put the nuts on the bottom of the header just like the stock arrangement, you can easily fit a box end wrench on the bolt side when you loosen the nut.

[iPee]

I haven't gone back to the garage yet since posting, it's been freezing up here as of late. When we first looked at it my friend said it may be welded on as well. Were you able to cut the head off the stud, with the header still in place or did you have to remove the manifold?

[jrobie79]

I had the header removed, but I'm sure you can get creative and figure out how to with it still attached to the head. Just wear eye protection at those weird angles

I haven't gone back to the garage yet since posting, it's been freezing up here as of late. When we first looked at it my friend said it may be welded on as well. Were you able to cut the head off the stud, with the header still in place or did you have to remove the manifold?

[iPee]

LOL late update but more of just an FYI. I was able to removed the header without jacking the engine up as mentioned in another thread I found. The only thing that was in the way was the front sway bar. After I removed the sway bar the header came out quite easily.