Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

[JonsE30]

Edit: I figured out both of those holes are go to the guide and the pin sits to the side of the guide. Also i was transferring parts to the new lower timing case and this is the only thread hole I donÂ’t have anything for. WhatÂ’s supposed to go there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[roguetoaster]

You probably only need enough dowel pins to realistically locate the head/block before tightening. Consulted old rebuild pics on my M42, and the engine had two when disassembled, and I put two new ones in place during reassembly.

The hole looks like it ought to house the idler gear if it were an E30 M42, but I think that actualy mounts the deflection rail as yours appears to be a late M42/M44. What did that engine come from again?

[JonsE30]

roguetoaster you're right. that hole was the idler gear. the case i got is off a 1993 E36 M42.

For the deflection rail, i need to get those 2 bolts for it since there was not any that can transfer from the old lower timing case. Do you know if i can just order the same bolts that are used for the lower guide rail under the crank sprocket? Also i was looking at real oem for the part numbers and i wanted to confirm the part numbers to order, are these the right pieces?

dowel pins : part number: 11121726241


timing chain guide bolts: 07119919824 x 2

[roguetoaster]

Can't confirm in either case, but I vaguely recall ending up with the wrong dowel pin initially when I had my engine apart all those years ago. Your best bet would be to measure the holes for the dowels as the part numbers correspond to different sizes, and do try to put dowels back in the same places they came out of.

[JonsE30]

i was able to take the ones off the hold head with some penetrant oil and they slid right off without damage. i've read in the back comments to crank it reverse 45 or to the point where none of the pistons sit at the top of the block before installing the head so there's no interference with the valves. i dont have any of the timing stuff on yet, but i am able to use my hand to crank enough for the pistons to lower. after i install the head, torque it down to spec, then install the cams at tdc, how do i get the crank back to tdc before i start putting all the sprokets and chain on? it's on an engine stand so i cant get the flywheel on it to use the locking pin tool.

i put the crankshaft pulley on lining up the peg and hand cranked it until the most front cylinder's piston is all the way at the top. the crank pulley has a void that is facing up and 6 teeth to the right of it there is a line in the tooth and its where the oil filter housing is. is this top dead center?

[roguetoaster]

Should be pretty close to TDC. Why not install the oil filter housing and verify if you need accuracy for timing chain install?

[JonsE30]

i got the head back on, but im looking at the side where the intake and exhaust manifolds go and some are missing the studs, i see them on the old head, is there a method to remove them safely or does this need to be replaced?

[roguetoaster]

You can try to use a two nut method for removing studs, or you can grab them with vise grips where the fastener would not need to engage. I would also really consider the condition of the exhaust side studs before reusing as they do have a real tendancy to rust to near useless states, at least in terms of removal/installation of the exhaust manifold.

[Gkwan]

JonsE30 I saw your posts on IG of your engine rebuild and started following you! Awesome to follow your rebuild and keep up the posts with the progress pics.

Good luck with the rebuild!

[JonsE30]

roguetoaster good tip i'll inspect them and if good i'll try the 2-nut method.

Gkwan Thanks for the vote of confidence!

[Gloff]

Man, I thought my engine was clean when reassembled, that timing case looks brand new. Good work so far!

Word of note on first start, when I did mine, I pulled the spark plugs and leads off the coil pack to prime the oil pump, but when I put the leads back on, it wouldn't start, I had to disconnect the battery for 15 min for it to reset the computer.

[roguetoaster]

I realized on the priming front, there is a drain with a hex on the front of many oil filer canister housings that seems to feed directly from the oil pump. I'd backfill from there if priming is a concern, but some grease in the pump is also good insurance.

[JonsE30]

small update. looks like the 2 nut method worked once i figured it out haha. i transferred the stud bolts to the rebuilt head and test fitted the lower manifolds to see if all was good and straight. i also started taking off the old fuel hoses off the rail. i need to add those to the next parts order for misc items.

[JonsE30]

everything is coming along, test fitted the parts again: a/c bracket, alternator bracket, engine arms, oil filter housing,etc all bolt up just fine. need to scrub and clean all the slude off it, maybe spray it with high temp paint to give it a uniform look with the rest of the engine. i already got started on the transmission and damn that was disgusting haha. i spray a bunch of zep degreaser and scrubbed with a brass brush. this after 1 saturday morning. still needs another round of cleaning, but i just want to get it clean enough to handle for reassembly.




but i want to address the shifter before putting everything back since i dont want to re-access this area. i was looking at the short shift kit vs the shifter rebuild kit are these the same thing? the short shift kit is cheaper. i figure anything is better than what i got right now.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assemble...5117519669kt5/

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...25117527252kt/

There are the 2 examples i am looking at on ecs. the short shifter buy sounds like knocking 2 birds with 1 stone, unless i am missing something?

[roguetoaster]

All you need is the rebuild/upgrade kit and just the short shift lever if you want a notchier shift feel. Link 1 has lots of important bits that link 2 does not.