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Need advice from experience for an M42 rebuild

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    bmwman91 i will try to improvise. i tried using painters tape to wrap the tip end of the alignment tool, but i guess it wasnt centered or something because the transmission still wasn't going in. it's trial and error then i guess.

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      Today I just had no luck. Now that the dust has settled after all the family holiday festivities, I took another shot at mating the transmission. I ordered another clutch alignment tool for a 318 and when it arrived it looked exactly like the one I had. Go figure. On top of that I stripped out a pressure plate bolt. I’’ve been reading how finicky this clutch disc alignment is for BMW’s. I’ve read somewhere or maybe in the replies here l but not sure how I would do this. A thread I read said to line up everything and finger tighten the bellhousing bolts. Drop engine and trans back into car and hook up pedal assembly and have a friend press in the clutch will I’m wiggling the transmission and it will slide the disc into alignment and push the shaft all the way into the pilot bearing What do ya’ll think? It sounds sketchy but I’m losing hope for something that should be so simple.

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        Originally posted by JonsE30 View Post
        A thread I read said to line up everything and finger tighten the bellhousing bolts. Drop engine and trans back into car and hook up pedal assembly and have a friend press in the clutch will IÂ’m wiggling the transmission and it will slide the disc into alignment and push the shaft all the way into the pilot bearing What do yaÂ’ll think? It sounds sketchy
        That's what it is....Sketchy.

        If the engine and transmission is already out the car, it should be a piece of cake to mate them up.

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          mini update. i know it's been a while cuz life happens. i was able to mate the transmission up. hopefully i didn't break anything. i got the engine and trans in the bay after wrestling with it but it finally got in on on the motor mounts. i bolted up the driveshaft and exhaust under the car, which reminds me i gotta hook up the clutch slave cylinder.

          but now i am working up top and trying to address the mess under the intake. i've removed many hoses thus far, but i was wondering if any of these hose can be reused for other areas. for example the nipple at the top of the water pipe to the nipple in the bottom middle of the cylinder head? some of the hoses have some gunk in it that can be washed out but overall look and feel like they are still in good condition.

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            Every time I see that diagram I wish I had used different colors when I made it about ten years ago...

            As to the lines, replace them now, and as tempting as it may be to reuse a coolant hose with a slight twist to adapt the dissimilar sized nipples just don't. Also, replace the water pipe/gasket with a new one while you are there as it will just crack up in the near future.

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              Got it. I got new stuff under the intake, put the lower and upper intake manifolds, injectors and rail, throttle body, air box, valve cover and spark plug. All the connectors had a home so nothing is just dangling. I am about to get started on the cooling system stuff now. Once everything is back on, I assume I refill all fluids like oil, trans and coolant and take out flywheel locking pin. Is there a checklist I can go through for the 1st start? I don’t wanna mess up after everything up to this point. I read I remove fuel pump relay (the middle one in the harness on the firewall I think) then turn the key and everything turns on and it’s supposed to turn over to pump the oil until the oil pressure light goes away. Am I supposed to leave the spark plugs in during this step? Lastly put back the fuel pump relay and then turn the key and it should fire up?

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                so i thought i double checked everything, i filled her up with oil and filter, pulled out spark plugs, fuel pump relay and fuel pump fuse #11 and tried to turn her over to pump the oil but i got nothing.

                the dash lights turned on, radio turned on, headlights work, but the power windows controls don't work and neither does the heater controls to turn on the fan or a/c.

                i dont know much about electrical, i just put everything back where it was unplugged from. could it be the starter? alternator?

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                  found out the main wiring harness was not fastened all the way down so the pins were not making contact with each other. i sorted that out and all the relays clicked and the i was able crank and pump the oil until the light went out. i then put back fuse 11 and fuel relay and tried starting it again. it did not start but now i found a little puddle of fuel under my car and it was coming from the fuel filter? could this be me mixing up the fuel lines that go into the fuel rail? UPDATE: I checked real OEM and my fuel lines are going to the right peg on the fuel rail. I tried it again and it only leaks as soon as the engine cranks. I didn't touch the fuel filter or pump during my rebuild, so I'm not sure if I messed up anything hooking up the lines under the hood?
                  Last edited by JonsE30; 02-01-2020, 06:55 PM.

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                    Did more research and found out the fuel pump doesn't "hum" in there cars. I took off the upper intake and the left one on the black hard line was seeping fuel when it flexed a little bit so I clamped it down. But that tells me the fuel pump is working and getting to the rail. I got under the car and checked the lines again and it looks like there is cracking on the hose from the pump to the rear of the fuel filter. I pulled up the rear seat and checked the pump and lines there and no leaks but I'll need to fish out the bad hose and get a new one in there. Still no start so do you think it's the fuel pressure regulator, injectors, wiring harness, crank position sensor?

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                      A few things I would check:

                      - Make sure your fuel pressure regulator has the vacuum hose attached.
                      - Check to make sure you're getting spark
                      - Pull a couple spark plugs and make sure they are not wet with fuel, could be flooded.

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                        pulled each spark plugs and cranked while it was sitting on the intake manifold and all showed Sparks. when I pulled them they all look wet with oil probably from when I tried to prime the engine for the first time during the first cranks with no fuel. the fuel pressure regulator has the vacuum hose attached. more troubleshoot I've done: so I took the upper intake off and pulled fuel rail out. I bought a circuit tester light to check for power. I took off each injector off the rail expecting fuel to leak out but it was dry. I tested all 4 leads and they all have continuity. the fuel hose for the return line was the one leaking from the clamp so fuel was at the rail. i tried cranking without the injectors on to see if fuel would come out the 4 holes out of the rail but nothing came out. I am so confused. if there was fuel in the return hose, is it safe to assume the pump gets gas to the feed line through the rail and back to return line? I checked again under the car and the hose that connects to the back of the fuel filter up through a hole in the chassis then what looks to clamp to a hard line near the top of the tank is leaking. there is foam around that clamp and it's damp and soggy. do I need to drop the tank to replace this hose? I am so lost. can this leaking fuel hose be the cause of all the fuel supply issue at the rail and with the injectors?

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                          The hose that comes from the top of the tank to the fuel filter can be replaced if you just lower the tank.

                          You need to verify fuel supply at both sides of the fuel filter then at the connection to the rail. If you have it to the rail but not at the rail you have the supply and return lines crossed.

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                            Thanks so much. I'll check that next!

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                              thanks for the advice guys. i got some free time while the kids were away. i unhooked the fuel lines and reversed them back. there was a little bit of pressure in the lines so i tried to keep a rag there from preventing it getting everywhere, but there was still some light splashing. i wiped off as much as i could then let it dry for a few hours.

                              i plugged the battery back then tried to start. it turned over but still didn't catch. i did the stomp code again and the 1216 tps sensor was cleared now, but now i got a 1252 which i researched is fuel injector #2 issue. one of the threads said it was due to no current/voltage going to that injector, but i tested it with the light tester and it was fine. does it mean the injector itself is bad or clogged? is this enough to prevent the car to start?

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                                You can take the injector rail assy out, place each injector in a bottle and crank once you disable the ignition system for safety. This will clearly show you any faults.

                                Are the injectors unknown or known working?

                                You can also clean injectors to some degree if it comes to that.

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