M42 from E36 into E30

[Gloff]

Hmm, will check out on the old motor, thanks for the tip! Teardown started, got most of the way there, just need to wait for the parts now.

Odd note: There was some old fuel or something in the fuel rail, I heard it drop right out of the rail and into the intake ports when I pulled the lower intake off. Didn't smell like Fuel, but this engine sat for a good while, so it could be that or some other liquid. I thought I had water in the intake ports, but realized the wholesaler bench ran the motor to check compression, so it had to have come from the fuel rail. Thinking about it now, it's weird that any residual fuel didn't come out of the rail when they compression tested it. Any ideas? I'm kinda running though the scenarios in my head thinking when could this liquid possibly come out of the rail or intake?

Also, the plastic on the knock sensors was super brittle, they're just in the block aren't they? any reason I couldn't just pull them out and run the block with those holes naked?

In case anyone needs to know how to mount an M42 Block to an Engine stand the bolt hole threads below are M12x1.75mm You can use anywhere from 80mm length to 90mm, these are 90mm, plenty of thread to securely mount the block to the stand plate


Got the intakes/fuel rail off, for anyone doing this, don't put any nuts on the fuel rail, it will fall into the intake port, luckily The valves were closed on cylinder 2, so I could fish it out with a magnet. Anyone need a complete M42/M44 E36 Intake?


Front of the Engine with the pulleys and accessories removed


Intake side with everything but the coolant pipe and Oil Filter housing removed.

[roguetoaster]

Yes, but it looks different in real life.

[Gloff]

Often the hub looks scored, but it is usually not. Give it a good wipe with some acetone and a light pass with a metal polishing pad or steel wool. I just did my front main seal and thought my hub was scored, but it cleaned up perfectly.

Check the condition of the crank damper VERY closely. Push on it and look for any signs of the rubber separating from the metal shells. I had mine take a dump last month, and while it was a $500 part, it should be good for another 29 years and the car runs better than it has at any point in the last 5 years since it turns out that these things go out incrementally.

Part #1 in this diagram?

[bmwman91]

Often the hub looks scored, but it is usually not. Give it a good wipe with some acetone and a light pass with a metal polishing pad or steel wool. I just did my front main seal and thought my hub was scored, but it cleaned up perfectly.

Check the condition of the crank damper VERY closely. Push on it and look for any signs of the rubber separating from the metal shells. I had mine take a dump last month, and while it was a $500 part, it should be good for another 29 years and the car runs better than it has at any point in the last 5 years since it turns out that these things go out incrementally.

[Gloff]

Also, check the parts list, anything I might want to add?

11531709157 Water Pipe O Ring
11531714738 Water Pipe
11142247867 Rear main kit
11141439570 front main seal
11211721099 front hub
11431287541 Dipstick Tube seal
11131739592 Upper Pan Gasket
11131709815 Lower Pan Gasket
11141721919 Upper timing case gaskets kit
11141721802 Lower timing case gaskets kit
11141247837 Timing case profile gasket
12141727220 Cam Sensor O-Ring
11421709513 Filter housing O-Ring
11421709800 Filter housing gasket
11531721218 Thermostat O-ring
11510393338 Water Pump (comes with 11531721218 O-Ring)
07119904527 Water Pump bolts x3
11611717761 Upper manifold gasket
11611734684 Lower Manifold gasket
11811137076 Engine Mount x2
07119915558 Engine mount to block nut x4
07119904463 engine mount to block or SubFm washer x4
07119963355 Tensioner washer
07119963200 Block drain washer
07119963200 Temp sender washer rear
11222243051 Flywheel bolts x8
11211720310 Pilot bearing

Ninja edit: I'll be refreshing the trans while it's out, but don't know what it's gonna need until I pull it. Clutch ha 50K miles on it, should be good, but would get ordered if necessary.

[Gloff]

Would you replace the front crank hub? The one one the new engine is lightly scored from the seal, and a new one is $47.

Also, the rear main has a kit available with a pre-pressed rear main seal and new carrier. I thought I read something about setting it at a different depth to avoid putting it in the same scoring mark on the crank, how would I go about re-setting the depth if I order the kit? Hope that makes sense.

[Gloff]

The filter housings are interchangeable. The only difference is in the round outlet part, with the later style one using multiple o-rings, and the older E30 style one using one.

Aluminum it is then. Thank you!

[bmwman91]

The filter housings are interchangeable. The only difference is in the round outlet part, with the later style one using multiple o-rings, and the older E30 style one using one.

[Gloff]

Engine looks good!

Don't think there is any real value in changing filter canister types, and when it comes to parts diagrams at or near interchange years you really need to verify what's in there before ordering bits.

Well I know that the Plastic style has the bushing, and the aluminum does not, I am 99% positive the block is the same and the difference is in the housing itself. I'll probably order parts for both and put on the aluminum one if the block is identical.

[roguetoaster]

Engine looks good!

Don't think there is any real value in changing filter canister types, and when it comes to parts diagrams at or near interchange years you really need to verify what's in there before ordering bits.

[Gloff]

Another question too: Are the Oil Filter housings interchangable? I already have a bunch of filters for the aluminum style bolt through filter housing. I see on RealOEM that the outlet uses a "bushing" with two o-rings, and the aluminum style uses one o-ring on a pressed in fitting. Is the plastic style a significant upgrade?

[Gloff]

Took the valve cover off this evening, looks pretty good, rust not withstanding.

[Gloff]

Well, engines that are pulled by a wrecker are a complete unknown, and can have serious internal issues. Remember, these cars were likely crashed, possibly quite badly, which can lead to all sorts of problems, or conversely, no issues at all. Whereas, an engine pulled from a recently operable vehicle is likely to be closer to drop in a go sort of shape.

Either route is fine, and if engines are hard to source where you are you have to take what you can get, just as long as you are fully aware that it may entail more work/cost.

Let's also remember that there are very few nice E36 318i models at this point, so don't feel too bad about parting one.

Makes sense, this one looks good and all in all wasn't that expensive, if it's a dud, guess I'll go the part out an E36 to save an E30 route thanks for the help!

[roguetoaster]

Well, engines that are pulled by a wrecker are a complete unknown, and can have serious internal issues. Remember, these cars were likely crashed, possibly quite badly, which can lead to all sorts of problems, or conversely, no issues at all. Whereas, an engine pulled from a recently operable vehicle is likely to be closer to drop in a go sort of shape.

Either route is fine, and if engines are hard to source where you are you have to take what you can get, just as long as you are fully aware that it may entail more work/cost.

Let's also remember that there are very few nice E36 318i models at this point, so don't feel too bad about parting one.

[Gloff]

If you are okay doing a full reseal and a real cleaning before installing the engine you can certainly run it. However, I would never personally want to buy an engine that has been sitting over one that has been run/pulled recently.

The corrosion isn't too worrying to me, but the information that the engine seller passed on certain does give me pause.

I'd be doing a full reseal anyway since I have to swap the pan,intake and flywheel.

What information are you referencing that gives you pause? Sourcing this engine was a pain, and I'd rather not pull a motor from a nice running E36, plus there's no guarantee it's in any better shape with the age of these motors