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M42 Overheating...another one

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    #16
    Originally posted by onesecond View Post
    One more thing before I make an order. The radiator temperature switch doesn't control the fan clutch does it? Just the aux fan?
    Controls the aux fan. The fan clutch is mechanical not electrical.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
    '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

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      #17
      Thanks!

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        #18
        So I replaced the fan clutch and the issue persists. Tried bleeding the system and the second it bled, it pressurized and a coolant leak happened at the bottom of the expansion tank. Same as seen in the picture in this thread https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...nk+leak+bottom

        Looks like I have an air leak with the tank. Ordered a new one but wanted to know, is there a way to drain just the tank and reuse the coolant (I know I know). Just don't want to do a full flush then realize I have more air leaks in the system and have to keep replacing the coolant

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          #19
          Originally posted by onesecond View Post
          So I replaced the fan clutch and the issue persists. Tried bleeding the system and the second it bled, it pressurized and a coolant leak happened at the bottom of the expansion tank. Same as seen in the picture in this thread https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...nk+leak+bottom

          Looks like I have an air leak with the tank. Ordered a new one but wanted to know, is there a way to drain just the tank and reuse the coolant (I know I know). Just don't want to do a full flush then realize I have more air leaks in the system and have to keep replacing the coolant
          A "full" flush requires you to drain coolant from block, which you aren't doing. Coolant is cheap enough. Get what you need, to do the job correctly.

          Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
          '91 318i (Alpine) - daily
          '88 325ix (Zinno) - drive here and there!

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            #20
            A coolant leak at the bottom of the tank can easily be a false positive as the coolant from the bleed screw leaks down there.

            You can drain the system via the blue drain at the base of the radiator expansion tank. If coolant does not come out once the drain is cracked open you will likely need to completely remove the blue screw/drain and jab in the hold with something pointy to clear a blockage.

            Just for fun, do the fan clutch test again and watch the brand new part fail. Basically, even new fan clutches that I have seen do seem to fail even with the engine at full temperature.

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              #21
              I'm pretty positive of the leak on the tank as it came pouring out and didn't line up with the leak from the bleed. I will do the test tomorrow for the fan clutch and thanks for the heads up!

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                #22
                Well there is a told you so, looks like I got a bad new fan clutch?

                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LX923QRA2pE - after a 30 minute drive
                https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8e7Dc9hwCU - just after turning it off

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by onesecond View Post
                  Well there is a told you so, looks like I got a bad new fan clutch?

                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LX923QRA2pE - after a 30 minute drive
                  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d8e7Dc9hwCU - just after turning it off
                  by the looks of the 1st video it's toast
                  1991 318is ---230K - DD
                  1991 318i ---- 308K - retired

                  Originally posted by RickSloan
                  so if you didnt get it like that did you glue fuzzy oil to the entire thing?

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                    #24
                    Yeah, the new one is installed and it's running cool. Very happy now!

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