M42 loud clicking...

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  • B2ThaZiZza
    Mod Crazy
    • Aug 2004
    • 614

    #1

    M42 loud clicking...

    I was driving the car around for one week then car started vibrate and click very loud so I checked the oil and it needed to be changed bad. I changed the oil and used a 4cyl oil treatment and fuel injector cleaner, the motor sounds good but I still hear the loud clicking when I start it and when the car is fully warmed up like after a short drive the engine sounds like crap but it idles fine. Im thinking it could be a lifter that is broken? or my injectors are going bad...help me out here guys.
  • Mastrcruse
    R3V Elite
    • Sep 2005
    • 5340

    #2
    Just throwing this out there, since I have no clue. How about timing chain tensioner?

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    • Van Westervelt
      R3V OG
      • May 2006
      • 9365

      #3
      Originally posted by Mastrcruse
      Just throwing this out there, since I have no clue. How about timing chain tensioner?
      x2, maybe a warped head if its rough and poor idle too. The head is unlikely, I just like to scare people. It is possible though. Probably the tensioner. Get one from an e36.
      sigpic

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      • B2ThaZiZza
        Mod Crazy
        • Aug 2004
        • 614

        #4
        Ok well i draind a little oil from the pan and pulled the valve cover off and poured it all over the timing chain and cams and stuff there and the noise went away i checked the chain tensioner and it was fine the sound is gone now...wierd...

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        • Den
          Advanced Member
          • Mar 2004
          • 162

          #5

          Hydraulic tappets
          The tappet buckets (cam followers) automatically compensate for wear and temperature, but are prone to gunking up. You can see the complexity of them in the drawing below. Insufficient pressure/resticted movement causes them to tick. . .

          To reduce tappet noise try this:

          * Before an oil change, pour in a can of oil flush - the type that can be run in the engine for a few miles. Run the car for about 20 miles at very low load and up to a maximum of 3000rpm. This will ensure that the oil flush will be satisfactorily circulated through the cylinder head. Note that oil flush weakens the lubrication property of oil substantially.
          * Drain your oil
          * Now use a fully synthetic oil - I suggest a 5W40 (or 5W50 in hot climates). The sythetic oil with a low viscosity element will get into the tappets easier and help to keep them cleaner.




          Oil Type : I would recommend a 5W40, 5W50 or 10W50 fully synthetic (the text book says 15W50) as the tappets seem to prefer a lower viscosity oil
          Last edited by Den; 03-11-2007, 03:28 PM.

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          • Car Addict
            E30 Enthusiast
            • Mar 2007
            • 1100

            #6
            Completely agree here
            sigpic

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            • ian e30 318is
              E30 Mastermind
              • Mar 2007
              • 1804

              #7
              i have the same problem with my 318is. ill have to try that.

              1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
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