Motor has thrown in the towel

[dude8383]

SOO...

I'm going to be tearing it down today because the sprockets, guides, rails and chain need to be replaced!

There's one thing thats bothering me though. Once I complete this, I need to align both the block and the head to TDC...HOWEVER, I no longer have the stock flywheel (m20) on the car.

I'm afraid the alignment hole for TDC is not going to be in the same spot as it was before.

What do you guys recommend? Also, any other recommendations as to what I should take care of while I'm in there..

Thanks!!!

[Hick]

What? use the markings on the crank pully.

[whiltebeitel]

You can align the block to TDC with the spark plugs out, just put a long stick in the hole (for god's sake don't drop it in there) and when it has the most stiucking out, you got TDC on thay cyl. I suppose you know what your firing order is, right? Measure from the first cylinder in the order. Put you head to tdc on that cylinder as well.

That should do the trick.

edit: or that^

[dude8383]

You can align the block to TDC with the spark plugs out, just put a long stick in the hole (for god's sake don't drop it in there) and when it has the most stiucking out, you got TDC on thay cyl. I suppose you know what your firing order is, right? Measure from the first cylinder in the order. Put you head to tdc on that cylinder as well.

That should do the trick.

edit: or that^

Just thought about this method! Thanks!

What? use the markings on the crank pully.

You know, there's so much nasty shit on the bottom of the block, I'm not sure I will see it.

Where can i find it?

[matt]

That's not the most accurate way to find TDC since the piston stays at TDC for a few degrees... they sell a cool little tool that threads into the spark plug that does a better job. You basically set the motor to not TDC but kinda close, then thread this thing in tight against the piston and mark the crank pully, then you turn the motor away from the stop until it hits the stop again, then you mark the crank pully again and you know TDC is halfway between the marks.

[Hick]

There is a mark on the drivers side timing case cover that corresponds to a mark across all three [or four] ridges on the crank pulley. Line them up.

The cams line up by placing a straight edge across the blocks all the way at the back of the cams so that there is no gap on the straight edge, best judgement is best, do not need to be perfect.

Mark on case in green:


Again with a red line over mark:

[dude8383]

Thank you very much!

I have the camshaft locking tool :)

I'm going to clean of the gunk on the motor and make sure to mark both points!

[dude8383]

Some pics of the tear down:

















Is this TDC?



The yummy bits...





What I managed to take out..waiting to the crankshaft locking tool to come in

[Hick]

No, there are three indentations on the pulley itself [in between the belts, if you will]

That and the cams on number one should both be point skyward when at tdc.

[Hick]

Like this

[dude8383]

I buttoned everything back up, and well...it doesn't good AT ALL.

Strange thing is, it holds idle nice and steady, but there's a metallic noise, kinda like the camshaft lobes hitting the lifters really hard.

I aligned the cams to TDC with the tool, and I did my best to get TDC on the block.

I'm obviously going to tear it down tomorrow again and take a look...

Do you guys have any suggestions?

Is it possible that when the guide shattered, the timing chain skipped a tooth and caused the valves to smack the pistons? I mean...it wouldn't hold idle, would it?

I'm pissed to say the least :)

[Hick]

Is it a tick tick noise or a whiring?

[dude8383]

Joe, check out the image below...notice the little red mark, I originally thought the large gap was TDC!

Oh and the noise was CRAZY detonation.

FIXED!

Took about 2.5hrs to tear down and put back together :)

Runs smoooooth :D

Thanks for all the help fella's!

[Hick]

Yup, go buy a damn manual.

[M42Technik]

Hey now we were all beginners once.