M42 Timing Components for Late Model Timing Case

[gespinal0301]

I put together a table to see if I have all the parts for a timing rebuild for a m42 with the late model timing case:

NAME:	PART NUMBER:
Timing Chain Guide	11311743262
Timing Chain Guide	11311247483
Timing Chain Guide	11311734694
Timing Chain Slide Rail	11311721641
Timing Chain Guide Rail	11311739130
Timing Chain	11311247160
Timing Chain Tensioner	11311743187
Profile Gasket	11141247849
Timing Cover Gasket	11141721919
Timing Cover Gasket	11141247633
Timing Cover Gasket	11141247837
Timing Case Gasket	11141739868
Oil Relief Valve	11141247393

Going to start ordering parts slowly, but wanted to know if I'm missing anything for a full refresh, thanks!

[bmwman91]

- I would replace the spring that goes with the oil relief valve just to be safe (11411706809) and maybe the spacer sleeve too.

- You will want the gasket for the oil pickup (11411715116) for sure. Also I recommend red Loc-Tite on the bolts that hold the upper pan to the timing case (inside the oil pan) as those are notorious for coming loose and causing a gasket implosion such that the oil pump sucks air.

- Speaking of which, you will need upper and lower oil pan gaskets.

- Thermostat housing gasket.

- Water pump o-ring.

- Cam position sensor o-ring.

- Oil filter housing gasket.

- Oil filter housing outlet o-rings.

- Oil dipstick o-ring (bottom).

- Get some high temperature RTV (I like Permatex Ultra Grey or Black) for sealing the profile gaskets. You definitely need some where the inner & outer ones butt up against one another, and will want to put a generous dab there before placing the outer one so that the joint will not weep oil. Granted, it seems like a 50/50 chance that it will anyway lol.

- If you are going to do this with the head on the car, find a sheet of ~0.005" brass shim stock that is at least 3" wide and as long as the top of the timing case. You will need this to slide the case + profile gasket under the head without dislodging the gasket. I think that some people lubricate the gasket so that they can pull the shim out more easily. I used RTV as "lube" years ago when I last did the job. Getting the shim out was a royal pain, and the best method seemed to be to remove the center kidney grille and yank on the shim/sheet with pliers from the opening.

- Consider replacing the alternator mount bushings since it has to come off anyway. They get old, hard and shrink.



Thinking of other tips...there are 2 bolts holding the upper pan on that are inside the transmission bellhousing. You will see 2 small openings just behind the block on the bottom, and that is where you get at them.

When reinstalling the upper timing cover, you need to push it down so that it is level with the top of the head to ensure that the valve cover gasket seals (and use a little RTV at those joints when putting the valve cover back on, plus at the sharp corners in the back where the reliefs are at the cams' ends). I have used the valve cover to do this, with some M6 bolts and a stack of washers to make it work as a clamp. You need to put the upper timing cover on with its bolts not-quite finger tight, compress it down, and then tighten them in 2 or 3 passes so as not to smash the gaskets. The 2-3 passes thing applies to both covers, and the thermostat housing.

Getting the timing case back in is a bitch. You need to rotate the oil pump rotor to be clocked with the flats on the crank snout. In order to get it up enough to actually get onto the crank, I used a floor jack to push it up and compress the new profile gasket. However, you won't be able to push it up against the block by hand (I couldn't anyway), so I used a 24 or maybe 36" adjustable clamp hooked onto the back of the engine to generate the force needed that way. Or maybe it was 2 clamps, I can't recall. The point is that it sucks and having a competent helper there to work the jack and/or clamps is a bonus.

Oh, speaking of the oil pump rotors, clean them and pack them with heavy assembly lube before reinstalling the cover. This should help to ensure that the pump primes on the first go. When you are all set and ready to start the car, unplug the fuel injector harness (rear-most plug on the black wire box on the left side) and turn the engine with the starter until you see that oil is flowing in the top end. Then plug the injectors back in and fire it up. This way you can be 100% certain that everything is primed and protecting the engine.

What condition are your cam sprockets in? They don't usually go bad, but depending on the car's history they might be worn.

[gespinal0301]

The engine will be on a stand, but I'll update the table with the other parts you mentioned as well as read this back once I start installing everything. Do you think it's worth it to replace the oil pump itself and the crank sprocket?

I haven't opened the spare motor up yet, but it came from a running car when I got it. Thanks for the tips!

[gespinal0301]

Here's the updated parts list. A few things to keep in mind the upper oil pan gasket is backordered (as of now) and you have to order two of each alternator bushing if anybody uses the table.

PART NAME:	PART NUMBER:
Timing Chain Guide	11311743262
Timing Chain Guide	11311247483
Timing Chain Guide	11311734694
Timing Chain Slide Rail	11311721641
Timing Chain Guide Rail	11311739130
Timing Chain	11311247160
Timing Chain Tensioner	11311743187
Timing Chain Tensioner Spring	11411706809
Profile Gasket	11141247849
Timing Cover Gasket	11141721919
Timing Cover Gasket	11141247633
Timing Cover Gasket	11141247837
Timing Case Gasket	11141739868
Oil Relief Valve	11141247393
Oil Relief Valve Bushing	11141247397
Oil Pick-Up Gasket	11411715116
Lower Oil Pan Gasket	11131709815
Upper Oil Pan Gasket	11131739592
Thermostat Gasket	11531721172
Thermostat O-Ring	11531721218
Water Pump O-Ring	11511714519
Cam Sensor O-Ring	12141727220
Oil Filter Housing Gasket	11421709800
Oil Filter Housing O-Ring	11421709513
Oil Dipstick O-Ring	11431287541
Alternator Bushing	12311715491
Alternator Bushing	12311715490

[bmwman91]

Yeah, you may as well replace the the oil pump rotors and crank sprocket. The rubber on the sprocket can get old and hard, and the oil pump should not really wear but it is always good to know that the lubrication system is in top shape.