I just went through an engine rebuild with much appreciated help from members of these forums but i am noticing some oil leaks in commonly expected places. At rest i dont notice much oil leaks but when i start the car and let it get up to temp, then it becomes more apparent. I removed my a/c compressor to get a better look and it looks like its from the timing case. i am guessing its the gaskets or the seal didnt seat or seal properly before putting on the timing cover. Since i didn’t put back my cooling system yet, I’d like to address this now. Do i need to drain the oil to do this. Is there an external sealer i can use since it’s all buttoned up now?
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Freshly rebuilt engine - tracking down oil leaks
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You should drain the oil, add new once complete, and replace the filter after a short while.
There's probably nothing that would seal from the outside as the leaky area is already contaminated with oil. If you are getting leaks from the sides of the case go ahead and RTV the surfaces after you clean them. Alternately RTV a gasket on both sides before installing. Most importantly, seal the upper to lower T case seal ends, and follow the sealant product application instructions.
If you are getting leaks past a bolt you may need to RTV the integrated washer.
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You can leave the plugs in. I suggest cleaning it up and pinpointing the actual source of the leak first, so if it's just at or immediately below the upper T case you won't have to take extra stuff off. If it's only the rubber gasket ends you shouldn't need to take off more than the VC, T stat and upper case, maybe coolant hoses too to allow for work space.
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I think that RTV instead of the OEM gaskets is OK for the timing case covers. Just don't apply it too thick.
I usually apply a film of RTV above and below the profile gaskets in addition to the butt joints.
For the thermostat housing, I'd stick with the OEM gasket though. You will notice a little groove connecting the 2 sides. That is a bypass, and RTV is likely to clog it. While it won't hurt anything to plug it, it makes bleeding the system a pain in the ass. With the bypass clear, 99% of the air will bleed out in less than 30 seconds after starting the engine. If it is plugged, you have to sit there idling/revving until it is warm enough to open the thermostat, and personally I would never run the thing for very long knowing that the head has huge air pockets in it.
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roguetoaster how would you spray the gasket on, wouldn't there be some overspray into the thermostat housing? or do you just stuff it with paper towel or something? if this can work i can do this asap since i won't have to order and wait for parts.
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I swear this engine is teasing me. I snapped a damn bolt from the upper timing cover putting it back on. Noob mistake!!! Uggghhh!!!! Makes me sick to my stomach! Gotta figure out extraction techniques to without causing further damage. I have left handed drill bits that’s worked out wonderfully for my pressure plate bolts but those were just stripped bolt heads. This time it snapped in bolt hole so I’d have to be careful to not damage the threads.
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