I can't get access to the cooling hoses for the plates as the clamps are facing a direction that won't let me loosen them. Any tips or tricks? Try and cut the hose under the upper manifold?
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Just make sure that the wires/plugs for the coolant temp sender are out of the way if you are going to go pulling or cutting down in there. Before chopping, can you access the opposing end of the second cooling hose and remove the clamp from where it connects to the head (or plastic water pipe)?
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Unless you really smashed the radiator to the point that it was somehow constricting flow, or it developed a leak and dumped all of its coolant without you noticing, it is probably fine. Those things can take a bit of a beating.
What exactly is it doing that indicates it is not cooling adequately? Did you unplug the coolant temp sender and forget to reconnect it? Some people have also mixed up the oil pressure connector and temp sender plugs, although if you did not touch those then they are likely fine.
Did you cap off the barb on the head and the water pipe, or did you connect them with a spare hose after the MUTI cleanup? It does not really matter which you do, although I opted for the "connect them with a scrap of hose" route.
Lastly, you may just have an air bubble in the head, causing the sender to read high. If the thing did not bleed out within 30 seconds of running, then chances are that the bypass slot in the thermostat housing is plugged. It is not ideal, but you could just run it until the thermostat opens and lets the air out, although clearing the bypass is the better option. Some people park on a steep uphill incline, unplug the upper hose from the radiator and pour coolant into the head directly. That method will get most of the air out, although the best way is to pull the thermostat housing (replace the thermostat, gasket and o-ring while you are in there) and clear the bypass slot. With the slot clear, I have been able to pour in about 1.5 gallons of coolant/water on level ground before even starting the engine, and never even needing to open the bleed screw. The expansion tank will slowly continue accepting coolant as air is pushed out, and once it would not take any more I started the car, revved it a little and added the last half gallon or so as it pulled coolant in. After a short drive and letting it cool off, I did the final top-off.
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So prior to doing MUTI the cooling system was fine and I had swapped the thermostat less than a year ago so I think it's all good.
Actually quick question to get out of the way, the black pipe that attaches to the head doesn't have any pieces that need to be removed correct? (I know this is weird but it's just making me go crazy)
I did the pipe routing with a hose for the MUTI cleanup
I made sure to label the connectors with masking tape so I am 99% sure they are back in the correct spot.
As for symptoms,
1- Coolant is boiling in the expansion tank (aggressively bubbling and steaming)
2- The bottom hose is not warming up at all nor does it feel like there is any pressure is building up
3- When I opened the bleeder screw nothing comes out, although once, steam did
4- The temp gauge is reading high (I haven't ever let it pass the 3rd quarter mark as I know these engines are delicate) before this it was rare for the engine to go above 1/2
5- Top hose is getting extremely hot that I can't touch it
This is what I can remember for now, I've never had problems bleeding the system before (done it about 3 times before this) so that is why I thought it was the rad.
PS where in the head are you pouring coolant?
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The plastic coolant pipe has the top nipple/hose connected to it that's part of MUTI which would then go to the forward nipple on the cylinder head. Is water actually circulating, as in, can you see a stream of coolant from the bleeder area in to the expansion tank?
He wrote that some people remove the upper hose from the rad while leaving the other end on the t stat housing, and fill through there, which is the most direct way to fill the engine first.
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So no coolant is leaking if that's what you're asking about the plastic pipe. I used a hose from an e36 to connect the pipe to the head for the bypass.
When it comes to a stream of coolant from the bleeder area (I think your referencing the screw?) no coolant at all is coming out from there when opened.
And gotcha on filling into the hose directly.
Just to confirm when I'm saying expansion tank, I'm referencing the tank attached to the radiator or that's what I'm assuming at least
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Yes, the integral exp tank.
When you rev the engine there should be a visible stream of coolant in the tank that you can see with the radiator cap open and the bleeder closed. The stream should run horizontally.
With the bleeder open you should get vertical coolant flow when the engined is revved.
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