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Why does my Drive shaft still KNOCK!?

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    Why does my Drive shaft still KNOCK!?

    So when i heard noises under my car i decided to take a look. My center bearing boot was completely gone. So i replaced it. I also noticed my flew disk was torn up so i also replaced it. But now for some odd reason it knocks like crazy when im in first or second and i give it a little gas. I went underneath the car again to see if it would show were its knocking but i cant find anything to show it. Im so confused what this could possibly be.

    I checked all my lug nuts and bolts to see if anything was loose and nothing.

    Has this happened to anyone before? Is something not aliened right?

    Ive taken off drive shafts on E30's before and never have i run into this problem.
    Any help would be much appreciated.
    Having a fast honda is like coming out of the closet.....you suprise everyone at first, but in the end you're still gay

    #2
    You said the CSB boot was gone. Do you mean the bracket? Chances are very good that you have a bad CSB, because this is exactly what happens. the rubber in the carrier deteriorates and allows the driveshaft to flop back and forth.

    Project M42 Turbo

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      #3
      Yeah that thing was completely not connected anymore, so i took the bracket off and got a whole knew one with the rubber in tacked.

      You think the inside of the shaft itself is messed up?

      the noise wasnt half as bad even when the bad parts were on.
      Having a fast honda is like coming out of the closet.....you suprise everyone at first, but in the end you're still gay

      Comment


        #4
        A failure of the CSB's rubber mount is almost always the result of binding drive shaft u-joints. You replaced the CSB & guibo and kept the old drive shaft, which is bad and is causing the knocking when the drive train is under torque loading. Replace the drive shaft and you'll complete the repair and eliminate the noise..
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          A failure of the CSB's rubber mount is almost always the result of binding drive shaft u-joints. You replaced the CSB & guibo and kept the old drive shaft, which is bad and is causing the knocking when the drive train is under torque loading. Replace the drive shaft and you'll complete the repair and eliminate the noise..
          This new interweb fad is pretty funny. Sure the joints do go bad but the flex disk and CSB are WEAR items. They are going to wear out if you put in a brand new driveshaft too. You should worry about the driveshaft if you go through a flex disk and CSB like every month.

          I wish ppl would start using common sense and stop spreading around BS
          ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by asubimmer View Post
            This new interweb fad is pretty funny. Sure the joints do go bad but the flex disk and CSB are WEAR items. They are going to wear out if you put in a brand new driveshaft too. You should worry about the driveshaft if you go through a flex disk and CSB like every month.

            I wish ppl would start using common sense and stop spreading around BS
            I have quite a bit of respect for your opinion, but when Jim says something, it is rarely wrong.

            I wanna hear more discussion about this.

            Yeah, the CSB/Guibo are wear items, but so is the driveshaft, apparently...

            Closing SOON!
            "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

            Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

            Thanks for 10 years of fun!

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah I'm not saying that the driveshaft isn't worn out. All I'm saying is there has been a sudden surge of groupies that are telling anyone that replaces a guibo to put in a new shaft.

              In this in example even he reccomends the OP to blindly replace the drive shaft. I would reccomend that if he is worried about the shaft to check the joints before buying a new shaft and possibly wasting $$.

              U Joints do go bad, but the driveshaft doesn't need to be replaced every time you replace a CSB or flex disk.

              Sorry if I came on a little little strong in the first post.
              Last edited by asubimmer; 05-04-2009, 08:28 AM.
              ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by asubimmer View Post
                Yeah I'm not saying that the driveshaft isn't worn out. All I'm saying is there has been a sudden surge of groupies that are telling anyone that replaces a guibo to put in a new shaft.

                In this in example even he reccomends the OP to blindly replace the drive shaft. I would reccomend that if he is worried about the shaft to check the joints before buying a new shaft and possibly wasting $$.

                U Joints do go bad, but the driveshaft doesn't need to be replaced every time you replace a CSB or flex disk.

                Sorry if I came on a little little strong in the first post.

                now this post makes sense. your first one was a load of ego crap.

                always check for the source of the problem. a torn guibo and dead CSB MAY be a sign of a dead driveshaft. so check your driveshaft joints, and check its alignment. if that checks out, then replace your guibo/CSB and sleep in peace.
                90 E30 325i

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by guibo09 View Post
                  now this post makes sense. your first one was a load of ego crap.
                  yeah sorry, it just gets old to see stuff like this passed around on the internet. Kinda like the NV M50 being better than a M50tu for boost...

                  But yeah you should always check related parts when working on anything on your car. Hopefully the OP's shaft is fine. A friend of mine had to replace his a few years ago and iirc it was ~800
                  ///Alpinweiß II 24v 91' 318is, Alpinweiß III 99' 323i, 04' Yamaha R6 SE for sale, 00' VW GTi, 83' El Camino BURNED, 01' P71sold, 92' Miatasold

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by asubimmer View Post
                    Yeah I'm not saying that the driveshaft isn't worn out. All I'm saying is there has been a sudden surge of groupies that are telling anyone that replaces a guibo to put in a new shaft.

                    In this in example even he reccomends the OP to blindly replace the drive shaft. I would reccomend that if he is worried about the shaft to check the joints before buying a new shaft and possibly wasting $$.

                    U Joints do go bad, but the driveshaft doesn't need to be replaced every time you replace a CSB or flex disk.

                    Sorry if I came on a little little strong in the first post.
                    Well I havent had one yet that only needed a CSB and Flex disk pretty much a sticking u joint every time.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Don't let anyone tell you that you have to replace the driveshaft when you swap csb or the flex disc. You don't, it'll need to be re-balanced but that is it. My csb was worn out as well as the u-joints and flex disc. I replaced it ALL including the u joints with NO PROBLEM what so ever. My driveshaft is still the original that came with the car but has NEW u joints and NEW CSB and flex disc.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                        A failure of the CSB's rubber mount is almost always the result of binding drive shaft u-joints. You replaced the CSB & guibo and kept the old drive shaft, which is bad and is causing the knocking when the drive train is under torque loading. Replace the drive shaft and you'll complete the repair and eliminate the noise..
                        /\

                        This guy is not an idiot enough said.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Leaf View Post
                          My driveshaft is still the original that came with the car but has NEW u joints
                          Wait, WTF...they are not replaceable.

                          What did you do?

                          Closing SOON!
                          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Are you sure it's your driveshaft making noise and not a worn/binding joint on one of your rear axles?

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Yeah Im sure. This is the first time ive replaced anything having to do with this driveshaft before. I checked everything out and it seems fine but i will do a double check on the U joints. I tried to look to see if there would be any wear and tear from the noice around the driveshaft area but it showed nothing which is why it left me puzzled. So your saying if i just replace the U joints then it should be fine?
                              Having a fast honda is like coming out of the closet.....you suprise everyone at first, but in the end you're still gay

                              Comment

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