Sloppy Shifter (yes I searched)

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • george graves
    I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
    • Oct 2003
    • 19986

    #16
    Didn't Jordan say once that he had the end-all-be-all shifter on his silver car? Something about replacing the bitch clip?

    12 and 15 come in different thicknesses, you can mix and match to tightener up the slack - sorry, don't have the part numbers.
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

    Comment

    • whiltebeitel
      R3VLimited
      • Apr 2007
      • 2098

      #17
      Couldn't find a PN for 15, only 12 on RealOEM.
      '89 325i track sloot
      '01 530i daily

      -Enginerd

      Comment

      • Wh33lhop
        R3V OG
        • Feb 2009
        • 11705

        #18
        Originally posted by george graves
        Didn't Jordan say once that he had the end-all-be-all shifter on his silver car? Something about replacing the bitch clip?

        12 and 15 come in different thicknesses, you can mix and match to tightener up the slack - sorry, don't have the part numbers.
        I was curious re: the bitch clip too. I picked up some AKG delrin shift tower bushings but there's still a little bit of play in the linkage. I've seen a new BC in a few shifter rebuild kit, not sure if it's just a gimmick or if it's worth it.

        I guess at $5 it can't hurt to replace.

        I'll post this again, for ease of reference:

        http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...74&hg=25&fg=05


        (Red = they wear out, replace when rebuilding shifter linkage)
        No.....Description.....................Price...... .Part Number
        01 SHIFTING ARM .................. $37.80.... 25111221201
        02 Bearing sleeve, round ......... $11.92.... 25117519669 (can find these in delrin at AKG #SH30)
        03 Bearing bolt....................... $4.97..... 25111221849

        05 Cable clamp....................... $0.68..... 25111220837
        06 Bearing, shift lever.............. $10.33... 25111220600
        07 Rubber boot....................... $15.39... 25111220912
        08 Bearing, shifting arm........... $27.05... 25111220707
        09 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT...... $0.35.... 07129946400
        09 SELF-LOCKING HEX NUT...... $1.60.... 07129906196
        10 STRAIGHT SELECTOR ROD... $37.61... 25111220838
        11 Plastic washer.................... $0.25..... 25111220439
        12 Circlip............................... NLA :(... 25111220379
        12 Securing clip...................... $0.66..... 25117571899
        13 Gearshift rod joint............... $37.51... 25117501309
        14 O-Ring.............................. $0.80..... 25111221243

        15 Shim................................. $0.30.... 25111220199
        16 Circlip............................... $0.11..... 07119932863
        16 Circlip............................... $0.83..... 07119902293
        17 Dowel pin.......................... $0.70..... 23411466134
        18 TENSION BUSH.................. $1.18..... 25111203682
        19 Plastic washer.................... $0.85..... 25111434194
        20 Tubing reverse light switch... $32.45... 23141220263
        21 Cable clamp....................... $0.23..... 61138364037
        Last edited by Wh33lhop; 11-16-2009, 01:09 PM.
        paint sucks

        Comment

        • Lurker27
          E30 Modder
          • Jul 2007
          • 821

          #19
          It took like 800 pounds of force to put my shift holder bushings in, there is no play there. IMO Jordan's mod more importantly was replacing #19 in the shift knuckle with a 3mm long section of fuel hose.
          '89 335is +turbo

          Comment

          • yesmkay
            Noobie
            • Jan 2009
            • 13

            #20
            I just did this a few days ago...all new washer and bushing parts except for the gearshift rod joint. Mine probably needed to be replaced as it did show some wear and with a new bearing sleeve (#2), I still had some side to side play in the shifter arm. But, MTC brand rod joints are really bad from what I have read and genuine is too expensive. So, here is what I did to eliminate just about all play in the shifter arm (#1)....simply use a metal washer on either side of bearing sleeve (#2)...I had to smooth two washers and they were a pita to align so that the bearing bolt (#3) would pass through the tranny mount>washer>sleeve>washer>tranny mount.....BUT, once I got it in, it was very tight and eliminated greatly any side to side (rotational) play in the shifter arm. Adding the washers would have probably eliminated the play even without changing to a new sleeve.

            Comment

            • Rob
              Moderator
              • Oct 2003
              • 8166

              #21
              delrin carrier bushings (replacing #2) from UUC, Bimmerworld, Rogue, is always an option; I like the washer idea yemkay, might try that next go around on my beater. $25 for one bushing on a $800 car seems stupid, ha!
              BEERTECH

              Comment

              • Wh33lhop
                R3V OG
                • Feb 2009
                • 11705

                #22
                ^ They were about $20 shipped from AKG, possibly save a few bucks. For me there's still a tiny bit of side-to-side play in the shift carrier arm (#1) with those though; it eliminated almost all of the play but there's maybe a degree back and forth. Fore and aft though there's no play.
                paint sucks

                Comment

                • Rob
                  Moderator
                  • Oct 2003
                  • 8166

                  #23
                  Just finished up. The bitch clip really wasnt that big of a deal, but I unbolted the dranny mount and tilted the front of the motor slightly, made it MUCH easier.

                  I did jordans rubber hose trick in place of part 19, as well as new everything else, but really didn't make a huge difference. Maybe carrier bushings are the answer. Oh well.
                  BEERTECH

                  Comment

                  • dr.gonzo
                    Wrencher
                    • Nov 2009
                    • 206

                    #24
                    Thanks for asking and I did make it out. been super busy and super broke

                    www.roadreview.net

                    Comment

                    • Wh33lhop
                      R3V OG
                      • Feb 2009
                      • 11705

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Rob
                      Just finished up. The bitch clip really wasnt that big of a deal, but I unbolted the dranny mount and tilted the front of the motor slightly, made it MUCH easier.

                      I did jordans rubber hose trick in place of part 19, as well as new everything else, but really didn't make a huge difference. Maybe carrier bushings are the answer. Oh well.
                      I did the same, but don't have much of a before-and-after (especially since the tranny's still out of the car). All I can say is the shift action with Jordan's little trick, a new selector coupler (#13), new nylon cup (#6), delrin carrier bushings (#2) felt pretty awesome when it was out of the car.

                      I think Jordan's fuel hose trick is supposed to put a lot of pressure on the carrier coupler pin (#17) which effectively takes out most of the play in that area of the linkage (since they're not allowed the same movement that they would be with no or little pressure). Also makes it a little more tough to rotate the coupler side-to-side which probably adds a bit more of a solid feel to the side-to-side motion of the shifter (the coupler pivots side to side a bit when the shifter moves sideways).
                      Last edited by Wh33lhop; 11-24-2009, 01:59 AM.
                      paint sucks

                      Comment

                      • dr.gonzo
                        Wrencher
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 206

                        #26
                        Now I will be ordering these parts soon but i was wondering what can be done to shorten the throw? I have heard conflicting things about ebay shifters.

                        www.roadreview.net

                        Comment

                        • Wh33lhop
                          R3V OG
                          • Feb 2009
                          • 11705

                          #27
                          Get a different OEM shift rod. I've got a Z3 1.9 shifter, it shortens the throw nicely and lowers the shifter height a bit. You can go shorter (Z4 or Z3M) but the feel becomes pretty notchy.

                          Check out this thread for more info.
                          paint sucks

                          Comment

                          • dr.gonzo
                            Wrencher
                            • Nov 2009
                            • 206

                            #28
                            Any reason to get that instead of one off ebay?

                            www.roadreview.net

                            Comment

                            Working...