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5 speed swap: interesting discoveries, cruise control and others

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    5 speed swap: interesting discoveries, cruise control and others

    According to common forum lore and as documented by http://e30world.com/transmission/BMW...nsmission-swap among others, there seems to be an embarassing amount of confusion as to how to get a 5 speed swapped car to behave.
    After noticing that my 325-with-5-speed-and-M30 swap had inop cruise control, I decided to investigate a bit.
    First of all I discovered that the CC conundrum indicated in the link is most easily solved by reading the EBA and location 6571-0 of the ETM: for manual cars, the connection at C143 is OPEN, with the CC harness end taped, unconnected, to the harness.
    When one shorts pin 3 and pin 9 of C306 to bypass the AT switch that isn't there any more, the start harness end of C143 is hot at all times (from C301) and therefore will permanently inhibit CC operation (this function originarily inhibited CC operation in P and in N for obvious reasons).
    There is, however, another thing to note. If one compares the AT to MT diagrams at 1240-0 of the ETM, one discovers that the whole start relay and wiring IS NOT THERE on MT cars, with Pin 10 on C200 (key crank signal) DIRECTLY CONNECTED to pin 18 on C101.
    The CORRECT way to perform the auto to manual swap therefore is to remove the harness as per below and connect the BK/YL wire to C200 pin 10, which then goes to C101 pin 18, disconnect C301 (and connec it to the backup light switch as per 6322-0, getting the little harness togheter with the backup light switch), disconnect C143 and then follow the GN/BK wire that starts at pin 9 @C306, towards the Motronic ECU, and DISCONNECT pin 2 @ C131 [in my case, with the M30 swap, C131 was just left danging and C306 was not shorted as it should've been but hacked off - let's say that the PO and I have different styles). One can then remove the start relay, its bracket and it's harness, if desired, and have the car wired as it would have been had it been a manual from the factory. This removes an enormous number of potential start failures AND brings the car in line with what BMW intended. There is a further connection from C306 to G200 that can be removed as it's no longer of use and I am presently investigating what the other pin of C131 does. News in a bit.
    Last edited by nmlss2006; 08-04-2010, 10:38 AM.

    #2
    This is very helpful info. Could you possibly post a picture or a diagram to better show exactly what modifications are to be made in order to use the CC on a manual swapped car?

    From my understanding of the link you posted is that in order to make the cruise control work, you must affix a switch to the wire used to jump the grn/blk to the grn/ylw wires. When the witch is on the car will start but the cruise control will not work, but when the switch is off, the CC will work.

    Can someone confirm this? I'd like to get my CC working somehow.
    Originally posted by ebelements
    Also, for those who don't know, negative camber is the greatest thing since sliced bread(panera). Even tire wear is for city busses and the elderly.

    Comment


      #3
      you don't want to do that. Follow the wiring he posted - you really need to remove the automatic start relay wiring altogether. then your CC will work and the car will start.
      Build thread

      Bimmerlabs

      Comment


        #4
        Internet still VERY spotty answering quickly: Nando is correct, best is to remove everything. What I discovered when going through this on the car is that when you remove the harness for the start relay you can simply plug the BK/YL from C101 p18 directly into C200 the way manual cars are configured AND that you get to simply make C306 and C131 go away by removing the relay harness - the whole thing simply isn't there in manual cars.
        As to the CC you were asking about - you disconnect C143 below the driver's column (follow it - it's the one pin connector where the CC harness (identify by starting at the C200 connection between harness and CC stalk) connects with the start relay harness that you're removing). You then tape the 'loose' end of C143 to the rest of the CC harness per the EBA instructions and you're set.
        *DO REMEMBER TO REMOVE THE JUMPER AND ADD THE CLUTCH SWITCH* when you do this!!

        Comment


          #5
          Removing the entire relay system is what I did too, much simpler than some of the convoluted ideas I have seen here and elsewhere... CC and the brake disconnect work, I haven't spent much time looking into the clutch disconnect. Anyone?

          Comment


            #6
            Do install the clutch disconnect switch. The parts are $15 new and it's a 20 minute job.

            Comment


              #7
              Done. It just took a while to find where the harness that plugs into the switch was hiding. Found it, on my '88, to the right of the steering column with a short different color jumper at a 90 degree angle. Left the jumper and it's 90 bracket in place, relocated the harness to the switch and I have one less thing on my list. Thanks for the motivation!

              Comment


                #8
                I never did the clutch switch on mine. It works fine, just don't press in the clutch if you're using CC. :)
                Build thread

                Bimmerlabs

                Comment


                  #9
                  And by the by, I finished this too. The bracket that holds the switch is a positive DELIGHT (...) to get in.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    mine already had the bracket for the clutch switch. wierd huh?
                    Build thread

                    Bimmerlabs

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Definitely. Lucky though: I have everything out of the car save for the dash and I still had a bad time getting the bracket to clip.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        clutch switch bracket & switch - airbag car

                        noting this thread is a little old - i noted mention of the clutch bracket / switch within the airbag cars. My pedal set (my conversion) didn't have the clutch bracket or switch, so I'm looking for these parts. The realoem.com parts diagram lists these parts as nbrs 32 (bracket) and 34 (switch) - but the table associating the part numbers to the diagram only goes up to part nbr. 30. Pelican wasn't able to find the parts either. Anyone have the part nbrs for the bracket/switch on a airbag car?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Clutch switch 61318360421
                          Clutch switch bracket 35111157815
                          For all cars 9/87 and up (MY88+)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Added a toggle switch in my car for the green wires. Took like 3 minutes and CC works.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              it's still ghetto. the part of the auto harness you need to eliminate is pretty small, and then you don't have a silly switch to mess with.
                              Build thread

                              Bimmerlabs

                              Comment

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