High lock diffs

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  • Jean
    replied
    Thank you.


    I would like a confirmation on the necessary parts to replace the original 2 clutch disks with 4 to get this done .

    I promise to take lots of pictures for others as well :)

    Originally posted by FredK
    This is the part number for the clutch friction disc.

    If you wanted to add one or more discs, I believe you'd need to source thinner dog ear plates (the plates that the discs mate against).

    I'm still not sure how you can get 75% lock / 4 plates with stock parts. Can you describe how that's done?

    I just serviced the pinion bearing on my diff and inspected the clutch discs and steels which looked ok--if the diff is quiet I'll probably fool around with building a 3 disc setup.


    Honestly restacking the clutch discs inside the LSD is not that difficult. It might take a few hours the first time but the second time it'd probably take half that. Changing the pinion gear bearings is slightly more difficult.

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  • u3b3rg33k
    replied
    The real reason i pulled mine was that it was getting noisy. I'm pretty sure it needs a full rebuild.

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  • FredK
    replied
    Originally posted by Wanganstyle
    33141210626
    This is the part number for the clutch friction disc.

    If you wanted to add one or more discs, I believe you'd need to source thinner dog ear plates (the plates that the discs mate against).

    I'm still not sure how you can get 75% lock / 4 plates with stock parts. Can you describe how that's done?

    I just serviced the pinion bearing on my diff and inspected the clutch discs and steels which looked ok--if the diff is quiet I'll probably fool around with building a 3 disc setup.

    Originally posted by u3b3rg33k
    Granted the former had 170k on it, but I'd rather change oil than rebuilding a diff.
    Honestly restacking the clutch discs inside the LSD is not that difficult. It might take a few hours the first time but the second time it'd probably take half that. Changing the pinion gear bearings is slightly more difficult.

    Leave a comment:


  • u3b3rg33k
    replied
    Since I love jumping on the torsen bandwagon I figured I'd chime in late here.

    I swapped out an OE LSD for a Z3 torsen, and I find that the torsen does a better job. Granted the former had 170k on it, but I'd rather change oil than rebuilding a diff.

    I do use the parking brake trick in the winter at times. Try that with an LSD. It does nothing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Originally posted by jean
    ok, i think i want to give this a shot. Where can i get these clutch kits from, if these are oem parts can i just get them through a local dealer?

    Pn # ?
    33141210626

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    Ok, I think I want to give this a shot. Where can I get these clutch kits from, if these are oem parts can I just get them through a local dealer?

    PN # ?

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Did a high 9 pass then died on 1-2 shift second pass. Hahahaha

    If u look the clutch plates alternate w disc. If you reference the diagram of an OS GIKEN unit or cusco, you will see what I mean :)

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  • Jean
    replied
    LOL nice

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Local guy gave me this to tear down

    188mm 4.27+1,000rwhp and MT's


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  • Jean
    replied
    This sounds and looks fairly simple, but when you are upgrading from 2 clutches to 4, do you just stack them up or what exactly do you have to do in terms of installation order?

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Originally posted by matt
    I can get OS Giken diffs if anyone is interested. We also build high lock-up stock BMW diffs with 2-4 clutches. Not for $850 though. It's $500 just in machine work to do a 4-clutch setup.
    4 clutches can be done without ANY machine work. The DIY was written on e30 tech, I also posted a technical faq of doing one

    if you guys are doing machine work WITH a 4 clutch setup, the costs def. can add up, many of the diff building guys are machining custom ramp angles for different characteristics.

    4 clutch with stock center unit is NOT for noobs. You will shift lock like driving a KAAZ 2 way (I used to have a TOMEI *built by kaaz for tomei* in my drift car Ae86)

    heres a guy doing stock 2 clutch replacement for reference:

    Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.


    another picture tear down:

    Bimmerforums is the preferred online BMW Forum and community for BMW owners. At Bimmerforums, you will find technical how-to information maintenance specifics audio advice wheel and tire combinations and model specific details not found anywhere else. Our professionals are here to help make sure you find the answers you need to your questions and our community is here to help other brainstorm ideas for the future.


    heres the original thread where I got the idea from; give credit where it is due!

    this guy does a 4 clutch conversion with stock parts from a few diff;s





    another diff builders opinion on internal configuration:



    street cars use a 40% lock is enough; three clutches.

    For racing I use four clutches and change the pressure rings from 45º to 30º - this way you get 75% lock up rate.

    To add four cluches you need to take off 4mm of material from the cover (use old type diff covers, they are thicker and have thinner bellevue washers)

    -If you don't change the pressure ring to a 30º´s you get 60%. To get 90% you need 5 cluthces, but its too much"

    from my experience, there are a few different styles of LSD internal, and it gets confusing. some need machining for 4 clutch, many don't. You can configure and adjust to the unit in your car.

    my personal take on DIY of LSD rebuild/reconfig:


    A. for LSD stock rebuild; easier than doing a head gasket. just remember how things came out, replace with stock items. You don't need a spare diff for this if you have a good workspace, if you have a lift removal of the diff from car is not even required!

    A.5: for LSD install into place of open, paste, shims may be required. patience needed.

    B. for LSD reconfig/re-gearing of diff:
    ** if you are hardcore DIY guy with alot of patience and the space to gather a few extra LSD's for parts, then go for it**

    if you are building time attack car with lots of power then order a KAAZ :)

    if your car is dedicated street and you just want LSD for rain, then get a stock unit or a Torsen :)
    Last edited by Wanganstyle; 04-23-2011, 08:54 PM.

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK


    I hear you.

    There isn't any other way to get slightly more lock, though, right, besides going to a 3 plate/disc combo?

    Have you done any mods to the carrier to change the ramp angles?
    you can go 4 plate - it gets to 60% 2 way high locking with stock ramps. Works well for track cars, although its not for NOOBS.

    you can change angles to increase or decrease lock up, the factory does this (and many others)

    its simple machine work, pick you desired effect (and angles) and have it done.

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  • matt
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    $500? Are you modding ramp angles too?

    The dog ear and clutch disc stack is 8.0 mm in thickness, right?

    I am guessing you can free up some space by machining the endcap and grinding the shim on the opposite side... at least that's what makes sense to me.
    Not modifying ramp angles at this point... We need a lot more R&D on that. I don't know exactly what it takes, Mike does it.

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  • Jean
    replied
    Yeah 1600 is not not quite 650 lol

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  • FredK
    replied
    $500? Are you modding ramp angles too?

    The dog ear and clutch disc stack is 8.0 mm in thickness, right?

    I am guessing you can free up some space by machining the endcap and grinding the shim on the opposite side... at least that's what makes sense to me.

    Leave a comment:

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