adjusting clutch pedal hight

[99em1]

That's the only answer I have so far. Nothing looks obviously broken in the pedal bracket, so the pedal itself must be bent. Yeah I'm positive bleeding is a main issue, I just haven't had time to mess with the car in a while. So I'm going to pressure bleed it tonight or tomorrow, but with the method removing the slave whats the process to be sure? Turn it upside down, compress the rod, have someone work the pedal, open bleeder, then close bleeder, release clutch pedal, then release rod?

Any idea if it can be installed upside down just to bleed? I don't have a jig to keep it stable and I don't feel like getting another slave if the rod rpg's the shit out of itself.

I feel like turning it upside down is going to be a bitch since that hydraulic hose isn't too flexible. But slave bleed first + pressure bleed after seems like my best shot atm.

[Jparkr]

It will have enough play to turn upside down. Since the valve it is facing down it allows air to get stuck in there. Here is what I do.

*Undo the two 13 mm nuts and remove the slave from the bell housing.
*Turn the slave upside down so the valve is pointing upwards.
*Compress the rod into the slave (I use my hands and but it does starts to hurt so you may want to fashion a c-clamp that can do this when no issues)
*Crack the valve and have someone use their hand and lower the pedal to the floor.
*Tighten the valve, then have friend raise the pedal back up. (dont push it again until slave is reinstalled)
*Reinstall slave and test. If it still feels weird try again.

The only time I have ever had trouble with this was when I had a client installed clutch stop that I was not aware of. If you have a clutch stop remove it before doing this.

[99em1]

cool i'll try to give that a try tomorrow. sounds like it'll make more sense to pressure bleed first, then try the slave trick to get out any last bit of air right?

[99em1]

Actually had a question about slave bleeding before I pull it out. I pressure bled and it went well. Solid stream, then some bubbles, then solid again. Once it was just streaming a good flow a while, I closed the bleeder. Reservoir was a lil high so I opened the screw to drain a little. Started flowing, then as I was closing the screw, I saw the flow start creeping up towards the slave. Even though I got it fully tight it slowly crept up until it went all the way in. The fluid that went up didn't have bubbles in it or in between. Pedal feels stiffer than before which is good, but half the travel is dead. Would make sense if air crept back up.

Question is, shouldn't fluid movement stop completely once the screw is tight? And if some air did creep back in, wouldn't that explain the dead top portion of the clutch pedal?

Or do I have a leak somewhere that I'm not seeing....

[NC325iC]

its probably just a very small leak between the hose you used on the nip and the nip itself, nothing to worry about there.

[Jparkr]

Actually had a question about slave bleeding before I pull it out. I pressure bled and it went well. Solid stream, then some bubbles, then solid again. Once it was just streaming a good flow a while, I closed the bleeder. Reservoir was a lil high so I opened the screw to drain a little. Started flowing, then as I was closing the screw, I saw the flow start creeping up towards the slave. Even though I got it fully tight it slowly crept up until it went all the way in. The fluid that went up didn't have bubbles in it or in between. Pedal feels stiffer than before which is good, but half the travel is dead. Would make sense if air crept back up.

Question is, shouldn't fluid movement stop completely once the screw is tight? And if some air did creep back in, wouldn't that explain the dead top portion of the clutch pedal?

Or do I have a leak somewhere that I'm not seeing....

If you have a dead upper half of the pedal then you still have air in the line. You won't get it out without removing the slave and turning it upside down.

As for a leak, It should have made itself known already when you were originally did the job. Check your hose and the rubber around the rod of the slave when you and try again.

[99em1]

It's not a dead half of the pedal, it's about an inch. I don't have the over-center spring in at the moment, so the pedal sits at the beginning of the MC's resistance. I can lift up the pedal an inch to where it looks right, and depresses the cruise control switch, but if I let go it "clicks" back down to where the switch isn't engaged. The pressure starts immediately though from where it sits now. I get the feeling that bleeding more wouldn't add travel since it doesn't feel weak like air in the line, but I don't know. I guess I could try bleeding it again since I have more travel after replacing the bad clutch pedal with a good one.