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    Sloppy Shifter

    Just picked up a 91 318is, with a 5MT. I know this is Prolly the age old question that everybody's heard over and over again, but I'm new to E30's and just want to make sure I'm not replacing a buncha stuff I don't have too, when in reality I "might" only need to replace 3 or 4 things to get a more firm shifter back. I posted a video of prob, so let me know what you guys think I should do. Thanx



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    #2
    What car, what trans, how many miles, etc?

    Closing SOON!
    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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      #3
      x2, mine has always felt the same as what your describing aside from popping out of gear. Someone was talking about how much they loved the AKG unit http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog...g.php?item=138 . I like this and will deal with my slop until money appears someday. But i have a sneaky suspicion that more needs to be fixed than this.

      Awaiting the smarties answer
      Been with me for 16 years...
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      Wish i had more time to play with her

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        #4
        Sorry, I thought I had details in the vid. But just incase I edited the first post. 91 318is, Getrag 240 (im guessing) with a 4:10 rearend, and 190k on the working odo.

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          #5
          You have a G240, not a 260...but all your linkage will be shot at 200K, no matter what.

          To do it right, just replace everything including the shift selector shaft.

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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            #6
            My badz, still very new to bimmers..If it were a subaru wrx or sti, I could tell you which labour worker stamped the vin # :-) Thanx for the info tho. Any way you could tell which rebuild kit I need to purchase?

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              #7
              Originally posted by tbone714 View Post
              My badz, still very new to bimmers..If it were a subaru wrx or sti, I could tell you which labour worker stamped the vin # :-) Thanx for the info tho. Any way you could tell which rebuild kit I need to purchase?
              Gotcha...you gotta be a newb, we don't get "kits" unless our parts man absolutely kicks ass.

              Your best bet is to go to www.realoem.com and find your part numbers first, then 'round these parts we recommend www.blunttech.com for parts.

              Good luck, bruddah!

              Luke

              Closing SOON!
              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                #8
                I will warn you that if you're used to the shifter feel of modern cars, then even replacing the bushings and arm may not achieve the desired results - there's simply a lot of play inherent to the design. I replaced every bushing possible and the the arm (Z3 1.9) and still dislike the amount of slop in the mechanism. Next step is to pony up the $$$ for one of the better aftermarket set-ups. But moreso than the money, I'm pissed about having to do it again as it's a rather fiddly task.

                IMHO, before you do ANYTHING, go to a local GTG and ask to try as many shifter set-ups as you can. Then you can make a more educated decision.
                '88 325is: Diamond Schwartz; 210K miles; Koni SA; H&R springs; poly bushings (sold)
                '03 TDi Wagon; 5 spd (Ho-hum DD; 326K miles and counting...)
                '64 Morris Mini Cooper (w/e vintage toy #1)
                '72 Triumph GT6 (w/e vintage toy #2)
                '73 Volvo 1800ES (future vintage restomod project)

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                  #9
                  Thank you all for your info. Ordered a bushing kit from pelican parts, but i have one question....


                  Is there supposed to be a bushing inbetween the bottom of the shifter arm?

                  Currently there is nothing. It's just the rod going into the insert with the plastic spacers and curclip, and it moves away like crazy! it seems like that's where all the play is coming from.

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                    #10
                    That bushing is molded into the shifter lever. It's replaced as a whole. I bought the Z3 1.9 arm, which shortens the throw a bit. That said, you may still be unhappy with the amount of play between that bushing and the shift rod (#6). I was fucking pissed...
                    '88 325is: Diamond Schwartz; 210K miles; Koni SA; H&R springs; poly bushings (sold)
                    '03 TDi Wagon; 5 spd (Ho-hum DD; 326K miles and counting...)
                    '64 Morris Mini Cooper (w/e vintage toy #1)
                    '72 Triumph GT6 (w/e vintage toy #2)
                    '73 Volvo 1800ES (future vintage restomod project)

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                      #11
                      You just got the car? I would drop the tranny and overhaul the whole thing if you are planning on keeping it.


                      Founder @ Maintenr. Take control of your vehicle maintenance.

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                        #12


                        Most people forget to replace the two most important parts when making slop go away; replace 14 (gearshift rod joint), along with 11 (selector rod). most slop goes away. 2, 4, 7 are others you can replace and will help.

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                          #13
                          Ok! Thanx for all the help. I do believe i know what the problem is. First off, ra-tard that had the car before me, must of either broke his shifter (doubt it) or was trying to make a DIY Short shifter that failed miserably. The diameter of the receiver at the bottom of the shifter arm is about twice as big as the diameter of the shifter rod! Therefore, there's about a quarter inch of play (up/down side/side) I would take a pic, but It's a little embarrassing. #2. The selecter rod was on the wrong side of the assembly before I switched it. #3. the gearshift rod joint, is pretty much toast. So heres my question. Can anybody tell me, if a UUC DSSR would work with a Z4 2.5 or a Z3 1.9? I have a buddy that does CNC, and can fab me up some bushings and ish, or I can go the DSSR/shortshifter route. What do you guys think?
                          Last edited by tbone714; 04-08-2011, 08:57 AM.

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by blueapplesoda View Post

                            Most people forget to replace the two most important parts when making slop go away; replace 14 (gearshift rod joint), along with 11 (selector rod). most slop goes away. 2, 4, 7 are others you can replace and will help.
                            And I'll repeat myself... again... you can replace those parts and STILL have a shifter that feels like sloppy shit compared to more modern cars... or hell... even compared to my fucking '95 Cummins truck...
                            '88 325is: Diamond Schwartz; 210K miles; Koni SA; H&R springs; poly bushings (sold)
                            '03 TDi Wagon; 5 spd (Ho-hum DD; 326K miles and counting...)
                            '64 Morris Mini Cooper (w/e vintage toy #1)
                            '72 Triumph GT6 (w/e vintage toy #2)
                            '73 Volvo 1800ES (future vintage restomod project)

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Ian F View Post
                              And I'll repeat myself... again... you can replace those parts and STILL have a shifter that feels like sloppy shit compared to more modern cars... or hell... even compared to my fucking '95 Cummins truck...
                              So did you redesign the entire shifter assembly for a tighter feel? Or just content to whine about how a 20 year old luxury/sport car doesn't feel as tight as a comparable female of our species? ;)
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