No more r3vtard assist

[Earendil]

Above part number is the thicker one you should use. Grind down the center ramps as minimal as possible than make up the difference in the steel plates

Post the best supply pricing for this as im sure many others would like to know. I just buy them dealer direct as they are often in stock.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

I'll be sure and post the best price once I confirm what everyone is carrying. Of the three places that I've found, one doesn't say, one says 2.0, and one says 2.5. I have inquiries out to each of those three companies asking them to verify the part number and thickness.

To be absolutely clear, you believe that the part number 951 332 551 00 belongs to a 2.5mm disc?

And to be absolutely clear, the stock disc is a 2.0mm disc, correct?

[Wanganstyle]

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[Earendil]

So, I'm looking for the stock clutch replacement, and "The Part Number" appears to be 951 332 551 00.

I have two different sources telling me two different thicknesses for that clutch, 2.0mm and 2.5mm. Which one is it?

Does anyone have a part number for other compatible clutch thicknesses?

[Wanganstyle]

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[Earendil]

Three Questions for those that know:

1. When discussing compensating for worn items that produce extra slack, how kind of slack are we talking about? 0.2mm? 2.0mm?
   
2. How much more/less thickness can the diff tolerate if the spring plate is kept in place? You state the tolerance is a lot tighter when it's removed, but I'm not sure what the starting point is.
   
3. What is a stock depth for the ramp angle piece, from clutch surface to opposite side?

I just measured my dog ears at 2.11mm, which makes me think I have the porsche discs already, and not the stock 2.0mm discs. This gets me to wondering if anything else has been modified. I have the correct number of pieces for a stock diff, no more no less, but I wouldn't know how to tell if anything has been exchanged/ground without measurements for a stock unit. I'm also not exactly sure how much to compensate for what I find. Thanks guys!

[Earendil]

Your clutch discs were severely worn and the inner teeth stripped.
Stress from burnouts and drag launches killed/overheated and melted metal onto the center ramp sections.

You need new clutch discs and steels fitted to make up material lost and center ramps to be precision ground flat.

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for the information here and on my linked thread.

Additional question that I haven't heard discussed here or on other "refresh" threads.

When re-assembling everything, what do you look for to determine whether you have all your measurements correct? Obviously you measure twice, cut once, and do so in a precise manner. But if something ends up being off, how do you recognize that you have too much or too little material?

Thanks!

[Wanganstyle]

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[Earendil]

Have you ever seen clutch material melted to the larger of the two clutch contact surfaces? I'm not even sure what to call them, only that they are not the dog years. I'm wondering if it can be ground off, or if they can be resurfaced. More details and pictures here if you're curious.

[catboy]

Thanks for the detailed reply, I appreciate it
I am planning on having near enough standard static lock as I don't want it to be too grabby, also I don't want to have to maintain it too much with shimming, etc.
I will let you guys know how I get on
Ben

[Wanganstyle]

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[catboy]

This is probably a post full of dumb questions, but hopefully you can put me straight!

can I grind ramp angles on one side only giving me 30-degrees for accel and the stock 45-degrees for decel? If so which side needs doing? I know it depends which way up you assemble them but...

Second dumb question - I need to get one of the "ramp units" clutch faces ground; the previous owner of the diff ran the clutches down to zero on one side and there is some small amounts of surface damage.. Can I just grind one or should I do both the same amount? One is perfect, one has some material transfer/damage.. I am thinking of running this diff with 3x clutches/steels so I don't need to machine anything for clearance, just to remove the material transfer/damage from the clutch face

[demlotcrew]

Agreed, the planetary gear pins "can" wear groves in to the the freshly cut ramps, but I have not seen this happen yet. There are literally hundreds of these ramps in use in the UK track/drift scene and no reports of undesired wear over the norm.

I will soon take apart my LSD and will check for wear.

Andrew

[Wanganstyle]

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[demlotcrew]

Some very interesting information in this topic.

I would like to add that it is possible to machine the stock E30 ramp plates to 30º

I have done so



They were then re-hardened and polished.



Here is a 1.5way E36 ramp set, and I understand why the E36 planetary gear pins would be weaker, but they are a far superior design over the E30 ones, and unless you are running 1000hp (which 99.5% of all E30's and or E36's) are not, I would be fitting the E36 pins.



You can also buy the correct 30º from BMW or from C3, but they are pricey at £300.

http://www.c3bmw.co.uk/StockItem.asp?categoryID=1&subcategoryID=0&productID=1651&oRef=-1&section=2&Item=unassign

Andrew

[Wanganstyle]

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