Originally posted by jlevie
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Axle nut removal
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Originally posted by tonywonder View Postare you sure the lockplate goes on before you put the nut on? i did the opposite. i hammered the lockplate after i put the axle nut back on. it seems to make more sense that way since it will lock the nut in place. unless im misunderstanding something...this was also reverse of removal since the first thing i removed was the lockplate.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostI'm positive. See http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...37&hg=33&fg=40Originally posted by rammstein View PostDefinitely goes on first. Check your car right now- hopefully its on that way :)
I followed these procedures.
2008 335i - n54b30
1991 318i - m52b28
1994 fzj80 - LAND CRUSHER
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Well if your car is still on the ground with the wheels attached(which it should be), turn the car on and have a buddy press on the brakes. Pull the ebrake if needed as well. Should hold it tight enough to get off.
Originally posted by Ryan...It now emits a beautiful blue-ish yellow/green smoke from the exhaust?? No idea what would cause that color, but I assume its good.
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Am getting ready to (after reading this thread maybe not ready) to do a rear wheel bearing and half shaft replacement on both sides - new wheel bearings and new half shafts, neither came with new lockplates. Can these be gotten elsewhere besides the dealership parts counter? Also - can the bearings be removed/installed without the special pullers described in http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_...ngs/index.html DIY tutorial?My $$ Pit - 88 325iS
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Originally posted by Aardy54.. new lockplates. Can these be gotten elsewhere besides the dealership parts counter?
b) we’re talking about a pretty cheap part here so dealership may be most convenient.
Originally posted by Aardy54Also - can the bearings be removed/installed without the special pullers described in http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_...ngs/index.html DIY tutorial?
Check this thread out. The way I did it was pretty ghetto - but they're on right. I had a difficult time finding a local parts store that would rent desired tool.
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fwiw, I’m going to submit a vote for lock plate on last.
Logic:
First torque nut down – then lock nut in place.
Lock plate has three groves on outer circumference. Once nut was torqued down – I then used 32mm socket and mallet to drive lock plate on to the contours of the axle nut. Thus, the nut is locked in place and purpose is served. (it can not rotate. it is locked in place)
If you put the lock plate under/behind the axle nut – you might as well use a flat washer. I don’t see what logic you guys are using by putting the lock plate on first(?)
It’s what Bentley states. (I wouldn’t build a car based on realOEM diagrams. lol) Furthermore, how could you remove the lock plate first if it was behind the axle nut?
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Simon - thanks much!! It's sounding real bad today so think it's a take a day or 2 off work and get them fixed now! - I'm really starting to become annoyed by my e30, but alot of it could be the PO, as it ssems it was drove hard and never even put away let alone reg maint on it ... and once I got into fixing the probs, its been 1 headache after another LOL Leave it to the Germans to make it difficult, luckily I'm 95% German and stubborn/hardheaded enough to fix it up jst for spite LOL
Anyhows - thank you for the info on lockplates - you are right, makes much sense to go on top of the nut instead of under the nut. Now to find a 12pt allen to fit the differencial mouting bolts for the half shafts. Cross your fingers, wish me luck, and hope it dont piss me off so much that I just grab the 12gauge and put this poopschnaz out of its msery lolMy $$ Pit - 88 325iS
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Originally posted by Aardy54I'm really starting to become annoyed by my e30, but alot of it could be the PO, as it ssems it was drove hard and never even put away let alone reg maint on it ... and once I got into fixing the probs, its been 1 headache after another LOL Leave it to the Germans to make it difficult, luckily I'm 95% German and stubborn/hardheaded enough to fix it up jst for spite LOL
Don’t be too hard on the PO – these cars aren’t getting any younger..
Originally posted by Aardy54.. wish me luck, and hope it dont piss me off so much that I just grab the 12gauge and put this poopschnaz out of its misery lol
Sounds like you have the spirit – and rounding up needed tools is the first hurdle. Most parts stores I’ve went to have had hex sets available – and good luck with the puller. I got lucky with the plumbing-parts tool I whipped up for subframe bushing removal. Rounding up all those parts took trips to several different hardware and plumbing stores.
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just a little update. I ended up using a 3/4" breaker bar, extension, & 1 3/16" socket to get the axle nuts loose. 30 mm in 3/4" drive is hard to come by but standard it the same size. it may be useful for some of you.
Originally posted by Ryan...It now emits a beautiful blue-ish yellow/green smoke from the exhaust?? No idea what would cause that color, but I assume its good.
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