5-speed Swap Questions

[HarukoE30]

***Please Be Detailed & Specific In Answers, I am Specific Minded***

Car: 1986 325 w/ '88 325i Engine/Transmission Swap

Edit: Done for new issues, want to keep in the same thread.

Current Issue: I have a vibration around the center console area & I feel it may be the CSB. Now I was driving back from an event when this was happening & research has shown when the CSB go bad, you also have to replace u-joints as well. Vibration occurs at all speed & I didn't have it on the way up to the event, but I did on the way back. Any other areas I should look at?

This was all done from a auto ~ 5-speed swap.


Edit Edit: Issue resolved, and I am glad to be alive. I didn't torque down my wheel when I did the other 3.

[Sagaris]

That picture is looking at the throwout bearing. The pilot bearing is on the engine. Automatic cars do not have a pilot bearing so you need to purchase one and install it. I am going to be starting my 5 speed swap next week.

I still have a few more seals to buy but I am in no rush.
I have new shifter bushings, a UUC double shear shift rod, new input seal on the trans, output seal for the engine, output seal for the trans, shifter seal, trans mounts, new clutch master and slave cyl, new throwout bearing, new pilot bearing, new firewall grommet for the clutch line, new clutch, new pressure plate, and new driveshaft. I will have to go through my list and see if there are any other small items that I am overlooking as far as wear items being replaced.

Yoshi/shiboujin did an excellent job documenting his swap

http://e30performance.info/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=231

[Mr.SWISS]

Those shift carriers look like they are for different cars. The shifter can be removed from the carrier and swapped out or you can swap the carrier and all together. However!, the carriers look to be different and only an E30 one will be the right length.Install your pedals and master first, then start the tranny and shifter then dshaft and reinstall exhaust, you still have a small amount of wiring before you can start her up.

[HarukoE30]

Can't find the part number for the seals on realoem.com anyone able to help?

[getouth]

I need a shop in South FL to do a swap........

[jeffnhiscars]

e30 shift carriers were both stamped and cast (as in the pic) and he does indicate the donor was an 88 325. I believe the 2 carriers are interchangeable. IIRC you will also need the trans cross member ( my swap was a 318 so may be different) and dont forget you will need to bridge the starter lockout that is built in to the auto trans shift mechanism. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this...I put a jumper in board above the drivers kick (dont recall which terminals though).

[HarukoE30]

Those shift carriers look like they are for different cars. The shifter can be removed from the carrier and swapped out or you can swap the carrier and all together. However!, the carriers look to be different and only an E30 one will be the right length.Install your pedals and master first, then start the tranny and shifter then dshaft and reinstall exhaust, you still have a small amount of wiring before you can start her up.

From when I compared the carriers, they both looked the same & everything I've been using is from donor cars of '88 325i

e30 shift carriers were both stamped and cast (as in the pic) and he does indicate the donor was an 88 325. I believe the 2 carriers are interchangeable. IIRC you will also need the trans cross member ( my swap was a 318 so may be different) and dont forget you will need to bridge the starter lockout that is built in to the auto trans shift mechanism. There are a couple of ways to accomplish this...I put a jumper in board above the drivers kick (dont recall which terminals though).

I have the correct cross member, but my current issue is getting the transmission to bolt on.

My roommate & myself tried wiggling the transmission side to side to get it to line up with the guide pins. It just won't move onto them, like literally 2-3cm's & it's on them. When we first went to bolt things, we lowered the transmission, loosened the bottom two bolts, & the transmission seemed to get closer, but it's not quite there. Pushing, wiggling, rotating, nothing works.

I know you're not suppose to use the transmission bolts to move the transmission onto the guide pins, so what next?

[jlevie]

Did you use an alignment tool to center the clutch disk when you installed the clutch?

[Mr.SWISS]

Tow it to a shop and have someone else stab it in and pay them the 1 hr of labor rate. tow home and finish it up.


Cliff's: You ain't man enough,toss some cheddar and make it rain.

[HarukoE30]

Did you use an alignment tool to center the clutch disk when you installed the clutch?

Yes and everything was aligned, I even used like 3 different guides to verify how everything should look.

Also there is no way to move or tow this car. I am the only option, so should I just pull it out and than try again?

edit: I kept at it & finally after pushing and tugging along I finally got it to be flush & ready for bolting. Thanks guys

[HarukoE30]

Just an update, I managed to stick with everything & the car runs great (minus the oil pan gasket I'm replacing). Installed the Clutch perfect, shifts as cool as the other side of the pillow :up:

[TheBlik]

in order to do an oil pan gasket. Basically the whole front of the car needs to come out. now you can loosen the12 or 16 bolts (i forgot how many.) And either slip the gasket in and under the oil pump. or what my friend and i did. Cover the lot of oil pan in high temp Rtv. let sit for a day with all the bolts torqued to only ten ft. lbs. works great! kinda leaaves a red mess tho :/ and then in like 3 weeks re torque everything :)

[HarukoE30]

in order to do an oil pan gasket. Basically the whole front of the car needs to come out. now you can loosen the12 or 16 bolts (i forgot how many.) And either slip the gasket in and under the oil pump. or what my friend and i did. Cover the lot of oil pan in high temp Rtv. let sit for a day with all the bolts torqued to only ten ft. lbs. works great! kinda leaaves a red mess tho :/ and then in like 3 weeks re torque everything :)

We got the Oil Pan off by just loosening the motor mounts, lifting the engine, unbolting the steering rack bolts, and unbolting the oil pump, before pulling out the oil pan.

So with your idea of installing I would 1) put the gasket on 2) put High Temp RTV around the gasket 3) Move the pan into place 4) install oil pump 5) Install Oil Pan w/ bolts torque'd to 10 ft. lbs. 6) let sit overnight 7) Drive the car 8) in 3 weeks fully torque the bolts?

Did I get that right?

[kamotors]

1.crawl under the car/drain oil
2.remove bell housing cover and all the oil pan bolts
3.this will drop it about 1 inch letting you apply a bead of RTV around the entire lip
4.bolt up the pan
5. next day torque it down.

[HarukoE30]

1.crawl under the car/drain oil
2.remove bell housing cover and all the oil pan bolts
3.this will drop it about 1 inch letting you apply a bead of RTV around the entire lip
4.bolt up the pan
5. next day torque it down.

Damn I hand torque the bolts when putting on the pan, hope that doesn't effect it much.