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Last edited by JinormusJ; 08-07-2013, 09:43 PM. -
A vibration from under the car that is worse in the lowest gears when briskly accelerating is probably from the CSB. In almost all cases a failure of the CSB will be caused by binding u-joints in the drive shaft. Replacing just the CSB may gain some temporary relief, but the only real, long term, fix is replacement of the drive shaft and CSB.
A whine from the drive train could be from the differential, transmission, or CSB bearing. With the car on a lift you may be able to locate the source of the noise by having someone bring the drive train up to road speed. But it may be necessary to load the drive train for the noise to be apparent. That means diagnosing it while the car is being driven. I've used an electronic stethoscope for this a time or to. Clip the pickup to each part and listen while driving the car and you'll identify the source of the noise.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL -
Thanks for the good information and quick reply. I really appreciate it.
Now that you mention it, I believe it could be my driveshaft. I picked up one at the yard (used) and it looked in sort of rough shape. By the time I got home, I noticed it was binding at the first u-joint, so I took some carb cleaner and cleaned out the joints. Afterward I greased it up a bit and it was moving a free as whistle, but who knows how good it really is for something that was already prone to failing. It can't be my CSB (unless they can blow from slightly bad u-joints in 100 miles of driving? This is all new to me, sorry if I'm asking a lot of nooby questions lol) because I just bought that brand new, and it was spinning freely and such before and after we mounted it. It's not completely an issue at the moment, but the second it gets worse, I'll probably buy a remanufactured one from somewhere and replace it. This was most likely the cause of that "whooshing" I described to you in my previous thread.
I have already diagnosed my problem, as I had 3 different e30 guys take a ride in my car, and they said the whines were from the transmission (the one that was in the video) and the differential (the one I described in my OP)
If you could shed anymore light on my situation, all wisdom is appreciated! Thanks again :)Comment
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Oh btw, just a little more information to add.
I didn't mess around and bought a brand new Guibo, CSB, Tranny mounts, Flywheel Bolts, and Pressure plate bolts. I wanted to make sure all the parts that held my driveline together was as tight as a whistleComment
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Worn imput/output shaft bearings internally on the G260? some are noisier than others- the G260 is a servicable item, Bently has instructions to rebuild it. BMW does support it with internal replacement item part numbers
G260 transmission (original transmission of a 6 cylinder M20 engine E30) uses Gear oil 75-90.
e36 ZF 5 speeds and ZF 6 / Getrag 6 speeds use ATF oil.
Perhaps ATF oil in the G260 made it angry? I have never tried that combination. I have ran 75-90 in both G260's I've had.
Gear oil 75-90 made my Getrag 6 speed angry when cold, hated shifting, ATF went in a few days after.
Rear diff: usually pinion bearing whines, these can whine for years and go on - the front pinion/race often goes before the other 3.Last edited by Wanganstyle; 05-09-2012, 12:59 PM.OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25
Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30
Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine
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I believe the Getrag 260 takes red fluid (ATF). I put in 80w90 the first time around and when we dropped the tranny, my buds were like "that's not red..."
So we went out and bought the real stuff.
I'll eventually buy the top notch brand and see how it goes.
What weight of fluid should I use in the diff?
These don't worryme all to much as they are being replaced down the line once I am contemplating a 6-Speed Euro s50 swap, but the more information you know, the better it is for yourself, no?
Thanks for the input! I appreciate it :up:Comment
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Hmm.. I'll have to look into that. Do you have anymore specifics on that note?Comment
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Sorry, but this is totally noob of me..
Care to explain what those mean? I honestly have no idea, sorry.. :|Comment
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Dear lord Joey, please tell me you have learned a thing or two since making this thread!Comment
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Yes, I did haha
The transmission I have now has the red label, which is the AF one (its a late model eta tranny, which are predominately the only types that took AF)
Going to be using Valvoline Group IV Synthetic ATF, which I hear is pretty good
Since making the thread, on my last e30, I drained the ATF from my tranny and refilled it with Redline MTL; made a huge difference and quieted it down a little, but not completelyComment
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Good to know,
I'll know for my next tranny fluid flush to use Redline. For now it's Valvoline :mrgreen:Comment
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Last question....
Any downsides to using gear oil in an ATF tranny? Mine has the red label, but when I drained it, it had gear oil in there; I didn't look very dirty (clear and brown) but I noticed a lot of shavings on the magnetic bolt. (nothing big or overly alarming, just minor slivers)
I've heard people running either in ATF trannys with varying results, but noted that people running the thicker oils noticed less noise and the infamous Getrag "Rattle" was tamed better than when running ATF
Any downsides to using gear oil? I'm thinking of picking up some Torco RGO 80w90 (GL-6 rated) as I've heard that quiets up the tranny much better than most oils on the market. Redline MTL and MT90 are design with brass synchros in mind, but does anyone have more info on the Torco?Last edited by JinormusJ; 08-07-2013, 09:19 PM.Comment
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